First bike. Trying to get this thing going..

It’s not safe to mount the engine to the chain . The chain is meant to be fitted after the engine is mounted . We just want you to enjoy riding it safely and functional. So you have chain tensioner that comes with engine kit. That’s why it comes kit. The after market one is good too. You got to try different ways after motor is mounted squared. Here’s mine you have the same after market one. They work great. We’re just trying for you!
 

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If your chain is riding on the pulley crooked, you can twist the bracket to make it line up with your rear sprocket. Put the bracket in a vise and use a big adjustable wrench closed on it to twist the bracket.
 
It’s not safe to mount the engine to the chain . The chain is meant to be fitted after the engine is mounted . We just want you to enjoy riding it safely and functional. So you have chain tensioner that comes with engine kit. That’s why it comes kit. The after market one is good too. You got to try different ways after motor is mounted squared. Here’s mine you have the same after market one. They work great. We’re just trying for you!

You guys are great 👍 appreciate all the help. All these problems seem relatively minor. I just need to get everything adjusted properly, and it would be much harder without your help, so thank you all 🙏
 
I'm not really keeping up with the thread but I wrote this in moments between too many meals and too few cold drinks I was listening to new to me music. 🤔😁

The square and true fitting of the rear mount to the seat tube really cannot be compromised under any circumstances .. imho but nah not mho its just essential. Instead of tilting the engine though, there are options for moving your engine further forward. You can use a little piece or a few layers of cheap alloy flat bar with two holes drilled in if to put it over the rear studs, then the mount that you get in the kit.
Longer studs might be necessary, but studs are just bolts with the heads cut off. Get decent ones check they're long enough, cut em off and clean up the threads a bit. Install the cut end into the engine snugly not torqued, with red loctite.
Stack your flat spacers and the saddle mount, install to frame, add the outer strap part if the saddle mount without any compressible material.
Tough plastics can be used on place of alloy shims, but nothing rubbery and compressible is recommended.
Use the double nutting method to put only the recommended torque for your studs' thread into cast alloy onto the first nut then, by holding it against turning, you can make the second nut good'n'tight. 😄
M6 thread studs should be torque to only about 60-70 INCH pounds. That's what correct double nutting sorts out, isolates the final nut and stays secure.
M8 are better of course it's a big 100 INCH pounds jump in max torque you can apply, and if you have a newer model of engine with a headless cylinder then I have no idea what the thread standard is on that.

Some people put bolts into the engine. Unfortunately this is the only way sometimes with fitting certain parts to the engine. It is not my preference. 🧐

🤔😁
 
I'm not really keeping up with the thread but I wrote this in moments between too many meals and too few cold drinks I was listening to new to me music. 🤔😁

The square and true fitting of the rear mount to the seat tube really cannot be compromised under any circumstances .. imho but nah not mho its just essential. Instead of tilting the engine though, there are options for moving your engine further forward. You can use a little piece or a few layers of cheap alloy flat bar with two holes drilled in if to put it over the rear studs, then the mount that you get in the kit.
Longer studs might be necessary, but studs are just bolts with the heads cut off. Get decent ones check they're long enough, cut em off and clean up the threads a bit. Install the cut end into the engine snugly not torqued, with red loctite.
Stack your flat spacers and the saddle mount, install to frame, add the outer strap part if the saddle mount without any compressible material.
Tough plastics can be used on place of alloy shims, but nothing rubbery and compressible is recommended.
Use the double nutting method to put only the recommended torque for your studs' thread into cast alloy onto the first nut then, by holding it against turning, you can make the second nut good'n'tight. 😄
M6 thread studs should be torque to only about 60-70 INCH pounds. That's what correct double nutting sorts out, isolates the final nut and stays secure.
M8 are better of course it's a big 100 INCH pounds jump in max torque you can apply, and if you have a newer model of engine with a headless cylinder then I have no idea what the thread standard is on that.

Some people put bolts into the engine. Unfortunately this is the only way sometimes with fitting certain parts to the engine. It is not my preference. 🧐

🤔😁

Thanx 👍 I really didn't know how important this is. I'm having issues keeping the chain tight (even with a tensioner), so my solution was to lift the back end of the engine up high as possible. Obviously that was a bad idea, so yes, I need to get creative with the mount. Good suggestions 😎
 
I'm having issues keeping the chain tight (even with a tensioner)
WTF are you doing wrong ? I've got over 300 miles on my 415HD chain and I never had to adjust it.
 
Wise words from a wise man. I think of this as a learning experience, and something fun to do with my downtime. 👍😎 still fun to ride and gets alot of attention even without the motor running yet 😃
 
Great Idea, I wonder if this would be good enough?
It's called a rear cassette chain guard and ya can but em.
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That’s awesome idea don and wrench that would work pretty darn good. Think of this harness (horse) racing the one’s with the sulky behind them. They have plastic material disk on there wheels to prevent horses foot going thru them in a race.What I’m getting at is it’s real thin but strong stuff . So I know that would work.
 
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