First build - success! (HT+Landmark)

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by Nougat, Dec 5, 2009.

  1. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

    Just finished my very first MB build. "RAW" 48cc HT motor kit. Schwinn Landmark cruiser from Walmart. I think between the kit, bike, and other bits and pieces (including a few tools), I've got about $250 invested. Nothing special around these parts, I'm sure, but it's mine, and I'm proud of it.

    I rode it around a bit today, even though it's cold in Chicago. It runs smooth and quiet, although a little underpowered for what I was expecting. After it's broken in, and I can back off the oil in the mix, it'll probably be better.

    My only real complaint about the kit is that the kill switch doesn't seem to actually kill anything. The only thing I'd change about the bike is the bars; these bars are like walking behind a plow.

    Attached Files:

  2. Pedal No More

    Pedal No More New Member

    I have the same bike but did Mine a little different and had the heavy duty axle kit check it out here is the links for the post I put up with pics of it.

    I like the custom front motor mount you made. Mine is similar but works the same.
  3. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

    The front mount was made from a piece of welding stock from Farm and Fleet, and a 1.5" muffler clamp (which is the perfect size). Took me like an hour and a half to cut through that hunk of steel with an electric drill and a cutting wheel.

    The only other real problem I had was thinking I needed to bend the exhaust, when all I needed to do was hose clamp it to the frame to pull it out of the way just a bit.

    I didn't see any pictures on that post you linked to.

    Oh, I just bought a dual pull brake lever, too.
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009
  4. give me vtec

    give me vtec Active Member

    i deleted the kill switch on mine all together with a new metal throttle housing from thats dax....
  5. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can test the switch operation by taping the wire ends to the leads and pressing the button. (it should jog the needle when you set to ohms and press the button.)

    Use this wiring diagram to help your kill switch problem if the switch is good.


  6. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    A $200-300 mo bike is great

    I really enjoy all the deluxe and custom choppers on here, but I think a $100 something beach bike and a sub $200 motor kit is just beautiful. Real transportation for less than the price of a crumbly broken down used car. Something mostly user serviceable, or at least easy to maintain. And you can lock it up for dear life inside your apartment or something, unlike a full size motorcycle (hard to get upstairs and in elevators) Hooray.
  7. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

    My switch is wired with the green wire attached to the front engine mount instead of being spliced into the black/ground engine wire, and the yellow switch wire is connected to the white engine wire. I suppose I could splice the green into the black, maybe it's not grounding well enough.
  8. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    If you are running the switch to white (engine magneto) you need to ground it to a frame or engine bolt etc with a proper terminal end for the screw size you are using. Or you can splice into the CDI ground line as shown, making sure you use good quality butt crimps and shrink tubing.

    A very good reusuable alternative is these! wire caps from Home Depot ($7-10 box of about 10-20 depending on size)


    If you run the kill switch wires spliced into the CDI loop, you just take the power away from the ignition capacitor or what electrical part is in there (maybe a voltage transformer). The black or green wire on kill switch is ground, the other (colored or 2 colored or color and stripe) is the positive. This worked fine on mine, and left the hot white wire capped off and sealed, in case I want to run a 6v light later. When I touch the switch it instantly cuts off fire, but I can recover it quickly if I want by letting go and using momentum or pedaling to restart. (like after a hard stop)

    [quote="Nougat, post: 248375"]My switch is wired with the green wire attached to the front engine mount instead of being spliced into the black/ground engine wire, and the yellow switch wire is connected to the white engine wire. I suppose I could splice the green into the black, maybe it's not grounding well enough.[/QUOTE]
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2009
  9. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    re: not grounding well enough

    Does it kill or affect the motor, but just not decidedly kill it instantly at the push of the switch?

    The trouble might be the ground like you say. Unless you pulled on any of the wires, its probably just where its mounted is not making a good ground. you can try using another bolt hole or drilling a little bitty hole and using a self tapping sheet metal screw. The smallest one will work if the motor is grounded well to the frame (the paint might stop this. Thats why I used the CDI interrupt).

    Good luck. I am new, but I worked some with mowers and weeders before this hobby.

  10. Pedal No More

    Pedal No More New Member

    Sorry Check Link Now I forgot to add the pics earlier but fixed it now!
  11. Pedal No More

    Pedal No More New Member

    Nougat I thought I was working hard on my custom front motor mount when it took me 45 mins to make the custom piece of metal to use for mounting bracket. But now I feel much better knowing it has taken many others awhile longer to accomplish the same thing hope you like the pics. It will make your next build much easier, faster and just as reliable. Mine has been working now with no problems so far But I have only been running it like this for a week. But it has loosened, moved or otherwise messed up so looks like this is going to be the best way to go. If you look at the pic you will see how much higher I mounted mine in order to make pedal clearance for the exhaust. Note where the exhaust is sitting. Like on mine didn't have to adjust exhaust just the height the motor was mounted and the pedal clears exhaust just like it came from factory no mod needed.
  12. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    I like your motor mount idea of using a plate and a u-bolt or clamp. Thats really good.

    I just used the little 3 hole plate that came with the kit, and a 5/16 fine thread screw with about 3 or four washers for lift. I had to drill through the frame. You have engineered around that problem! This should be included in motor kits! Good job!
    This is why I love this forum, so many inventions and techniques on here abound.

  13. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    A sharp hacksaw will cut through iron or steel bar. You might have to file or grind the cut and round the edges to make it look good though.
  14. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Your tank is mounted further back. How do you like it?

    I mounted mine about 1.5 inches from the headset (very slack steering angle).

    I noticed yours is way back in the center of the frame. How do you like this arrangement? Was it done because of the bars (wide at the bottom)? Or is it for changing the balance of the bike?

    Can you still stand over the top tube easily?
  15. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

    Killswitch - I haven't rewired it, and it's working okay, so I'm gonna whatever that for now.

    Pedal No More - about the front motor mount - I've got my engine mounted lower in the frame than you do. I can tell from your pics. The right side cover is just about resting on the pedal chainguard. I was going to try and bend the exhaust pipe, but since the pedals were just barely touching it, I used a smartly positioned metal hose clamp over the pipe and the frame to pull it just out of the way. The metal plate I used is 1/8" thick, and I don't have a vise or air tools or anything. I was cutting through it with a cutting wheel on a cheap electric drill. That's what took so long. After I got most of the way through, I helped it with a little hacksaw and was able to bend-break it at the "perforation." Nice thing about this hunk of metal is that it's never going to bend under any circumstances.

    happycheapskate - I mounted the tank that far back to make sure all the gas would drain out the petcock. It seemed like mounting it further forward would tip the tank too far forward, leaving gas unusable in the front of the tank. I can't really stand over the frame too well even without the tank, because I have short legs. I lowered the seat a couple of inches from where it is in the picture, and that seems better all around. I don't have to lean so far to put a foot on the ground while sitting on the seat, and it's more comfortable, too. I might go lower still, and I'm still considering moving the tank forward a bit, too.

    In other news, my first tank of gas had a whole lot of oil in it, so I remixed it with some more gas. After that, it was boggy at low end, presumably being richer, so I dropped the needle a notch (from notch three to two), and it's pretty good now, at least after it gets warmed up. It's just too bad it's snowing here all week.
  16. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Thanks for the reply. I wonder if anyone has ever put a motor on a PennyFarthing? ;->
  17. Smallblock

    Smallblock New Member

    Last edited: May 9, 2010
  18. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Tinypic are sorry *******s

    I don't even remember what this photo was originally, but I didn't post an elephant. Tinypic and photobucket are sorry *******s. They love to swap pictures and ruin threads.

  19. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Look around on Fleabay and the vendors here. There are rear mounted tanks that double as cargo racks.