First Build! Would love some help!

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by ParadoX, Mar 20, 2010.

  1. ParadoX

    ParadoX New Member

    Hi, So this i my first build. Im uing a micargi stealth and a skyhawk engine. I first came into trouble with the engine mount because of the larger frame. After drilling the frame, that problem was reolved.

    Now Im attempting to mount the rear sprocket on the back coaster wheel and Im having some difficulty interpretting the instructions.

    The size of the sprocket seem to fit exactly over the hub, so look like I lucked out there. However, I am usnure if I need to use both rubber spacers or not.

    If I try to put sprocket-->rubber-->spoke-->rubber-->metal, it seems that it pushes the sprocket so far out that it does not cover the hub.

    It is vague in the instructions if I can just not have the first rubber piece by putting it sprocket-->spokes-->rubber--metal. I this appropriate or ok?

    Also, why are there 2 set of metal circle set? The circle set that i made of 2 halves or 3 thirds?

    Thank for any help you can offer!
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2010

  2. hms-one

    hms-one New Member

    Well, I've done the single rubber gromet before, but I would not advise it. The Idea is to sandwich your spokes between the 2 rubber pieces to prevent the sprocket twisting, and your bolts from hitting the spokes. The gromets will compress a bit when you tighten on the hub kit, so give it a try with both.

    If the sprocket still sits out too far, I would try trimming the rubber gromets. I would only go to one gromet as a last resort, and not as a permanent solution. It will increase the likelyhood of you breaking spokes. One last solution is to try flipping your sprocket over. If your sprocket has offset teeth, try facing it so that the teeth offset to the inside, toward your spokes.

    If you don't already have a 12 gauge rear wheel I would suggest you get one to replace your standard rear wheel ASAP. You'll have to anyway when you start breaking spokes, which wont take long if you're a big guy like me. Just make sure of the size and depth of the hub before you buy or be prepared to modify your sprocket.

    Well, that's all I've got. Good luck with it.
  3. ParadoX

    ParadoX New Member

    Thanks greatly for tip.

    Any ideas on why Im supplies with 2 set of metal rings? one that is 2 pieces and the other is 3?
  4. hms-one

    hms-one New Member

    I dont know. My last kit was the same way. I only used the 3 piece on the inside.
  5. gothicguy64

    gothicguy64 Member

    they have a good install intrustion with pics .
    as for the metal bits that for diff type of wheels
    if u want to strenthen ur wheel cable tie ur spokes together where they cross together in pairs .

    brad sydney oz :helmet:
  6. moto-hoon

    moto-hoon New Member

    the 2 half pieces are used as a locking ring around the other 3 pieces u used to mount the sprocket. Not needed but a good safety idea.
  7. ParadoX

    ParadoX New Member

    Thanks for the responses. Jut broke one of the bolts during tightening. Doh! Off to the hardware store for the 2nd time today hah.
  8. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    well, against what everyone is saying here, i have my sprocket mounted: sprocket-spokes-rubber (on the inside) and the retaining ring. i am only using one of the rubber grommets and i have about 200 miles on my bike now with no problems. I am running a 20" frame with 20" spoked wheels, and my spokes do not cross each other (they are laced straight).
    i had the same problem as you did...the sprocket sticking out too far with both rubber grommets sandwiched in there (one on the inside, one on the outside). i did try to trim one of the grommets...good luck with that because that stuff is tough. It's got nylon cords in it like a car tire. if you try to trim it to make it thinner, you will never get it straight and it will take a lot of effort.
    yes, you should definitly replace all of the nuts, bolts and washers with some better quality ones than the ones that come with the kit. use blue loc-tite on them as well, and you'll be fine.
    I can not say that using only one of the grommets is a good idea, but it works for me, and i have had no problems. i had to put my sprocket on with the teeth "out" rather than "in" because my chain would hit the tire and with the teeth in, my chain would not run true with the engine sprocket.
  9. ParadoX

    ParadoX New Member

    Not sure if I am overtightening, but its getting close to fitting onto the hub all the way. Its sticking out about 1 mm until I busted the bolt.

    I love how all these kits are sold stating that only a few hours is required to put thee thing on.
  10. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    a few hours to get the sprocket on is more like it.
    the center hole in my sprocket does fit down over the little lip on the hub, but i had to modify the dust cover for it to fit the hole in the sprocket.
    none of these kits are truly "bolt on and go"...they all require slight modifications / problem solving to get them together.

    another tip would be with your wiring. cut off the cheap connectors that are on the ends of the wires, solder the wires together, and then cover them with heat shrink. you'll be glad you did because those cheap connectors will vibrate apart and /or break after awhile.
  11. Hajuu

    Hajuu Member

    haha yeah, lucky the sprocket is the hardest part in my opinion.

    It'd be cool if someone sold wheels with the sprockets already attached. I think I saw around somewhere someone selling HD hub/axle kits that had a sprocket attached. Sound familiar to anyone?
  12. ParadoX

    ParadoX New Member

    Ok next problem...

    I am attempting to attach the clutch cable to the clutch arm, but unlike the images I see on the instructions, my clutch arm sticks straight out 90 degrees perpendicular to the motor and rotates to be be approximately paralel to the motor.

    In all the images I see for the installation process.the clutch arm seems to be in a different angle that is under the carb.

    Is it possible that my clutch arm is not set appropriately? If I take the cone bolt off the top, it looks like you can pull the arm off and place it back on in a different orientation.

    If this is the case, can someone be so kind to tell me how the arm should be situated?

    Thank again!
  13. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    no, if it is sticking out 90 degrees it's correct.
    you have to rotate the clutch arm to the back and attach the cable. it will still be sticking out to the side, but not as much, there is a lot of free movement in the arm before you put the cable on, but once you get the cable on it will go into the right position.
    You will need to adjust the cable tension once you get the cable hooked into the arm.
  14. ParadoX

    ParadoX New Member

    Thanks for the help, but it still doesn't 'seem' right. The way my clutch arm is now, it is not able to rotate to the image in the manual.

    I added a few images to help.

    The first pic shows the furthest back the arm can rotate which is parallel to the engine cover.

    The 2nd pic shows how far it can rotate the other direction which is straight out. 90 degrees perpendicular to the engine cover.

    The 3rd picture show the orientation of the arm an the rod that it rotates (not sure what that is called)

    Does there seem to be a problem with this or am I still missing something obvious?

    Attached Files:

  15. ParadoX

    ParadoX New Member

    now that think it, the problem be with the arm, bush with the shaft it is trying to push. With the rear engine cover off, I can see the shaft that clutch arm i supposed to push when it rotates.

    The shaft is maybe an inch long and it comes out easy, but when pushed it, it seem to come to an abrubt stop. I would assume that i should be able to push it in to disengage the motor? So could there be a problem within the motor assembly?

    Sorry If Im lacking in the ability to use the proper terminology. Im a llittle mechanically inclined, but im far from being a mechanic.
  16. Hajuu

    Hajuu Member

    Hi ParadoX,

    The shaft you're referring to i've come to learn is called the 'bucking bar', it does disengage the clutch plate, but you will not be able push it in by hand.

    Some of these kits come with stiff as **** clutches at first, and I had many problems with it at first. The very first time I installed my clutch cable it was a struggle because I had to do it on my own, while supplying a huge amount of force on the clutch to keep the arm pushed in enough.

    So, if you have a friend who can help, push in the lever with your hand (allowing for a bit of slack, I pushed mine in about a half of the total arc of the arm), slot the cable in the end of the arm, push the brass fitting down flush with the arm (they kind of have cuttings on the ends that slot inside in no particular way..), and tighten the locking nut.

    I was unfortunate and my main clutch plate was *really* jammed somehow when I got it, the solution for me was to gently whack around the star bolt thing under the front clutch cover (with the sticker usually), but it wouldnt be recommended until after you're sure everything is fine.

    That's my experience with it anyway.
  17. Crobo

    Crobo New Member

    yeah i thought the same with mine, get it installed. make sure you lube the cable with some sort of lube( i use teflon dry lube because its pretty clean)

    once its all "set" and the chain is on with the cluth lever not pulled you should hear a popping noise from your engine as it cycles. pull the cluth (hard) and it should stop popping and coast as if the motor isnt there.
  18. danlandberg

    danlandberg Member

    There are mods for clutch ease and alignment. Seach the forum for clutch..mods. You can move the clutch arm inboard (toward the carb), Grind a rounded edge on the ''Bucking bar'' (Where the clutch rod goes through the engine) and you will get a good result, (and longer cable life). Remeber the clutch arm moves ccw when pulled. Also the motor you have is Grubee? Just remember ''Don't get MAD get GLAD'' your on your way to FUN! I have the same (name Brand bike) From Bike Berry (D.I.Y. kit) nothing works together. They tell me ''You need some knolage to to build such a thing'' I have over 20 years experince in such projects! Also the rear spocket is supposed to be inboard, according to distructions (instructions). The spoket teeth are closer to the spokes! But if you have a clearnce probleme (there is another 2.5 hours). Flip it over! 2-3 Hour build my ^ss!!! GOOD LUCK on your first build!!! I'm on my 3rd..............Dan
  19. Hajuu

    Hajuu Member

    Haha, Nice one dan.

    My experience is very similar to yours, so many problems. I'm onto my second build, but with the same motor. Prepped the new bike today, tuned it up, oiled it, tightened everything. Engine goes on tomorrow.

    [End random off topic]
  20. hms-one

    hms-one New Member

    drive chain WARNING!

    I would definitely recommend that you replace all the sh*tty hardware supplied with the kit with high grade bolts & locknuts. You can even replace your motor mount studs with bolts. I would also replace your bikes hardware to include nylon lock nuts or loctite wherever something might vibrate loose.

    Finally a warning about the drive chain in your picture. REPLACE IT! I got a 410 chain with gappy rollers just like the one in your picture. After a few trips it jumped off the sprocket at the engine and broke the sprocket cover clean off! I would recommend a #41 roller chain from Ace based on advice I have gotten on the boards. You can read all about it and find links on my thread, here: