First Build! Would love some help!

haha yeah, lucky the sprocket is the hardest part in my opinion.

It'd be cool if someone sold wheels with the sprockets already attached. I think I saw around somewhere someone selling HD hub/axle kits that had a sprocket attached. Sound familiar to anyone?
 
Ok next problem...

I am attempting to attach the clutch cable to the clutch arm, but unlike the images I see on the instructions, my clutch arm sticks straight out 90 degrees perpendicular to the motor and rotates to be be approximately paralel to the motor.

In all the images I see for the installation process.the clutch arm seems to be in a different angle that is under the carb.

Is it possible that my clutch arm is not set appropriately? If I take the cone bolt off the top, it looks like you can pull the arm off and place it back on in a different orientation.

If this is the case, can someone be so kind to tell me how the arm should be situated?

Thank again!
 
no, if it is sticking out 90 degrees it's correct.
you have to rotate the clutch arm to the back and attach the cable. it will still be sticking out to the side, but not as much, there is a lot of free movement in the arm before you put the cable on, but once you get the cable on it will go into the right position.
You will need to adjust the cable tension once you get the cable hooked into the arm.
 
Thanks for the help, but it still doesn't 'seem' right. The way my clutch arm is now, it is not able to rotate to the image in the manual.

I added a few images to help.

The first pic shows the furthest back the arm can rotate which is parallel to the engine cover.

The 2nd pic shows how far it can rotate the other direction which is straight out. 90 degrees perpendicular to the engine cover.

The 3rd picture show the orientation of the arm an the rod that it rotates (not sure what that is called)

Does there seem to be a problem with this or am I still missing something obvious?
 

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now that think it, the problem be with the arm, bush with the shaft it is trying to push. With the rear engine cover off, I can see the shaft that clutch arm i supposed to push when it rotates.

The shaft is maybe an inch long and it comes out easy, but when pushed it, it seem to come to an abrubt stop. I would assume that i should be able to push it in to disengage the motor? So could there be a problem within the motor assembly?

Sorry If Im lacking in the ability to use the proper terminology. Im a llittle mechanically inclined, but im far from being a mechanic.
 
Hi ParadoX,

The shaft you're referring to i've come to learn is called the 'bucking bar', it does disengage the clutch plate, but you will not be able push it in by hand.

Some of these kits come with stiff as **** clutches at first, and I had many problems with it at first. The very first time I installed my clutch cable it was a struggle because I had to do it on my own, while supplying a huge amount of force on the clutch to keep the arm pushed in enough.

So, if you have a friend who can help, push in the lever with your hand (allowing for a bit of slack, I pushed mine in about a half of the total arc of the arm), slot the cable in the end of the arm, push the brass fitting down flush with the arm (they kind of have cuttings on the ends that slot inside in no particular way..), and tighten the locking nut.

I was unfortunate and my main clutch plate was *really* jammed somehow when I got it, the solution for me was to gently whack around the star bolt thing under the front clutch cover (with the sticker usually), but it wouldnt be recommended until after you're sure everything is fine.

That's my experience with it anyway.
 
yeah i thought the same with mine, get it installed. make sure you lube the cable with some sort of lube( i use teflon dry lube because its pretty clean)

once its all "set" and the chain is on with the cluth lever not pulled you should hear a popping noise from your engine as it cycles. pull the cluth (hard) and it should stop popping and coast as if the motor isnt there.
 
There are mods for clutch ease and alignment. Seach the forum for clutch..mods. You can move the clutch arm inboard (toward the carb), Grind a rounded edge on the ''Bucking bar'' (Where the clutch rod goes through the engine) and you will get a good result, (and longer cable life). Remeber the clutch arm moves ccw when pulled. Also the motor you have is Grubee? Just remember ''Don't get MAD get GLAD'' your on your way to FUN! I have the same (name Brand bike) From Bike Berry (D.I.Y. kit) nothing works together. They tell me ''You need some knolage to to build such a thing'' I have over 20 years experince in such projects! Also the rear spocket is supposed to be inboard, according to distructions (instructions). The spoket teeth are closer to the spokes! But if you have a clearnce probleme (there is another 2.5 hours). Flip it over! 2-3 Hour build my ^ss!!! GOOD LUCK on your first build!!! I'm on my 3rd..............Dan
 
Haha, Nice one dan.

My experience is very similar to yours, so many problems. I'm onto my second build, but with the same motor. Prepped the new bike today, tuned it up, oiled it, tightened everything. Engine goes on tomorrow.

[End random off topic]
 
drive chain WARNING!

I would definitely recommend that you replace all the sh*tty hardware supplied with the kit with high grade bolts & locknuts. You can even replace your motor mount studs with bolts. I would also replace your bikes hardware to include nylon lock nuts or loctite wherever something might vibrate loose.

Finally a warning about the drive chain in your picture. REPLACE IT! I got a 410 chain with gappy rollers just like the one in your picture. After a few trips it jumped off the sprocket at the engine and broke the sprocket cover clean off! I would recommend a #41 roller chain from Ace Hardware.com based on advice I have gotten on the boards. You can read all about it and find links on my thread, here:

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=25912
 
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