First Build! Would love some help!

Thanks for the tips. I finnally had some time to look at this again.

So it seems there really wa a problem with the ****ch aembly. I took the clutch side cover off and watched what happened when i pressed the clutch arm all the way in. I can see the plate disengage, but it seemed that one side of the plate would not move. something was holding it back. I removed the top plate and put some force on the clutch gear and the inner part and heard a slight pop. It then seemed to move freely. After placing everything back together, pushing the clutch arm in NOW released the engine.

Also, like I initially wa afraid of, the clutch arm really was situated incorrectly and I had to remove it from the bucking bar and place it back in the correct position.

However, after a first test run, I can hear the engine start, but it quickly stalls and giving it throttle doesnt do anything. I know its a new engine, so I will try this again in a few minutes. Ill try different choke potions and then maybe try messing with the fuel mixture screw.


Ill report back shortly when Im all out of breath again haha.
 
*pant*

ok so the motor fires, but Im not getting any throttle response and it seems that pulling the clutch in tall it out.

sigh..
any suggestions?
 
Im using the recommended 18 part gas 1 part oil per the instructions. And have tried multiple choke positions.
help? =)
 
Got it running! Needs more tuning, but I got it to idle and and respond to the throttle.

Kill switch doesnt seem to work and I think I need to align the chain better still and also replace it like hms-one said.

Also definetly need to add a front brake. The coaster brake has NO stopping power haha!

But im glad to take a ride even if it only lated half a block!
 
ok, hang on a second.
What carb. is on your motor?
does it have only one screw in the side?
if it has one screw, that is not a fuel mixture screw...it is the idle screw. MOST of these carbs do not have air/fuel mixture screws.
on the no throttle response part,
when you put the slide into the carb, did you align the slot in the slide with the pin inside the carb body?
the slide will go in a couple of different ways, but only one way will be correct. the slot in the slide must align with the pin inside the carb body....or you will not have any throttle response because the slide will be binding up. the slide will not move up & down, but you will be able to turn the throttle as if you are giving it gas because only the cable will be moving up & down. you will know if the slide is in right because it will go all the way down inside the carb body and bottom out. if you have it so that the slot is not lined up with the pin, the slide will still go into the carb, but it will not go all the way down. you will also have to adjust the throttle cable. I can not tell you how much because it's different on every bike. you don't want the cable to be so tight that it is pulling the slide open without twisting the throttle, or turning the handlebars left and right. you don't want it so loose that there is slack in the cable shield ends.
remember, it's a new motor and it will be tight (the rings in the cylinder) give it time and it will loosen up a bit after you run it a few times.
if the kill switch is not working, double check your wire connections. the best thing you can do is cut off those cheap plug in connectors that come on the wires, and solder all the wires together, follwed by covering them with heat shrink tubing. Those connectors are terrible and they will eventually break and/or vibrate loose.
also, make sure no bare wires /connectors are touching the frame anywhere and tape up the end of the white wire so it has no chance of touching anything.
 
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Motorpycho, looks like your right, I was messing with the idle screw, not a fuel mixture screw I have the newer carb with the fuel valve on the right side.

The bike is able to fire up and idle now. I havent it too far for a test ride since I live in an area in san francisco thats got tons of traffic and with only coaster brakes it seems I have almost no stopping power. Im pondering getting a disk brake added to the front wheel.

The kill switch is still not working. I have the ground connected to a mounting screw. Is there a recommended place that people connect this to?
 
um, there should not be a separate ground wire that you need to hook to a screw. all wires should be connected to other wires. i forget the colors, but it should be something like blue to blue, black to black and yellow to yellow, with the white wire not connected to anything.

the carb on my engine also has the fuel valve on the right side (mounted right on the carb). it is a secondary shut off valve.
my carb, however, is way different than the carbs on the 66-80 c.c. engines.
my engine is a 50 c.c. slant head and my carb is bolted right to the cylinder, with no intake tube at all. it's a totally different design that the more common 66-80 c.c. card /intake set ups.

I only have a rear coaster brake as well, but it has plenty of stopping power.
sometimes too much grease in the rear hub will prevent the brakes from working as they should.
again tho, my bike is only a 20" frame with 20" wheels, and i'm fairly small (5'6" 150 lbs) so there is not a whole bunch of weight that my rear brake needs to stop.
 
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My Flying Horse only has three wires, black, blue & white. The white wire is supposed to have voltage out put. Some people use one wire from the kill switch to the white wire & the other wire from the kill switch to a ground. I have mine black to black & blue to blue. I have my kill switch wires (One is green one is yellow/With a red stripe) green to blue & yellow to black in line from engine to coil.
 
My carb has a red air filter cover.

The ground I was reffering to is the green, 2nd wire coming from the kill switch. I have this green wire connected to the mounting screw for the CDI. is the blue wire more appropriate?
 
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