First build

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by butch100, May 9, 2010.

  1. butch100

    butch100 Member

    Hello all! I will be doing my first install this week, it's a 66 cc SD Stinger kit, having read the stickies it's mentioned several times about ditching the included hardware and getting better from a local hard. store. Guy who sold me the kit said that the newer kit's include better grade nuts, bolts ect. and all I would need to do is use locktite on 'em. My 2nd question is, my cruiser-style bike is 13 years old, it's been garaged all it's life but I'm wondering how long the rear wheel will hold up so my thought is to buy a new rear wheel with sprocket already on the hub, is there anyplace where one can buy this type of setup and is it a huge improvement over using the original?,. Thanks in advance for any advise/opinions...

  2. professor

    professor Active Member

    Hi Butch, don't know about the wheel, but Welcome to Motoredbikes!
  3. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    your 13 year old wheel should be fine, provided that it's straight, and that you take the hub apart, inspect it, clean it and re-grease the bearings.
    it isn't that difficult to install a sprocket onto a rear wheel, it just takes time.
    there are, however, better sprocket mounting systemns out there (like the top-hat adapter or the clam-shell adapter) if you are willing to spend the $$. a good, solid sprocket and mount set up can cost you about $100.00 by itself, not including a new rim. I think i have seen 26" single speed rims with a 44 tooth sprocket installed on them on e-bay (using the rag-joint method). i have also seen rims with sprockets installed using one of the better aftermarket sprocket adapters on e-bay. but i have no idea of the quality of the rim, or how much these set ups cost.
    search e-bay for "motorized bike" or "motorized bike sprocket" and you will find some of this stuff. it all depends on how much $$ you're willing to spend.
  4. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I run (an old Huffy Cranbrook) and have build a cruiser from China Mart (Wal Mart) basically right out of the box (mikes bike) with little problems. First of all ... hardware better on the new kits..I wouldn't chance his word. Replace all studs with grade 8.8 metric (grade 5 US). Lock tite studs, either double nut or use self locking nuts. Use proper torque 8mm 150 to 204 inch pounds and 6mm 50 to 70 inch pounds ( I torque using 150 and 50 inch pounds) I use red but most use blue. Ride for about 30 minutes and recheck torque. One of the MOST important procedures is engine alignment. Check my profile photo albums. Look at Mikes bike and you will see that a modified FRONT mount is really needed for proper engine mounting. Do these upgrades and I'm sure you will get more trouble free riding then without.

    If someone came to me with a cruiser like Mikes (any bike for that matter), and wanted me to mount the engine on it right out of the box and didn't want the upgrades....I'd send them on their way...I'd only be asking for headaches down the road.
    Last edited: May 9, 2010
  5. butch100

    butch100 Member

    Thanks a bunch AI, sounds like you've been around the horn a time or 2 and I'll have to agree, the cost of new studs is gonna seem cheap compared to the hassle of one breaking 4 miles from home!. I've got a torque wrench but I'm not sure if it goes that low or is very reliable at that setting so I might have to make a trip to Harbor freight prior to the install..
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Correct, there is no way a foot pound torque wrench will be reliable to convert to inches. I didn't have one when I started my first build. Bought one off E-Bay ($20.00) as I'm a experienced mechanic and I wanted a precise measurement. I didn't have it when I built my first bike and (due to not checking torque) blew a head gasket. Since...never a problem.
    Last edited: May 10, 2010