First build

This is my first build. I have posted for a while now but today was the first day I had where everything was in that allowed me to do my first step of painting the frame.

So far this build is going to be a retro/vintage looking Indian cruiser/board track racer.

The frame is a GT2A Skyhawk frame with 150mm drop out. The front forks are black powder coated 1 1/8" threadless Sunlite Deluxe double springer. Once my threadless stem arrives Monday I hope the paint to be cured enough to assemble the head set so I can cut my steer tube down to size then I will be using Eastwood Down to Metal paint and powdercoat stripper so I can paint the forks in the same color as the frame.

Anyways here are the photos I have taken from what I have done today.

Primered with Dupli-Color self etching primer
Primered%201_zps7iao2nnj.jpg


Base coat
Base%20Coat%201_zpsi7xkmiwe.jpg


Base Coat w/ Indian Script
Base%20Coat%20with%20Script%201_zpskjxv5nwh.jpg


First coat of clear
First%20Clear%20Coat%201_zpsoh4frllz.jpg


Second coat of clear
Second%20Clear%20Coat%201_zps0edut7ka.jpg


Third and final coat of clear
Final%20Clear%20Coat%201_zpscgsj02db.jpg


For me the shape of the frame resulted in some over spray with the clear so I am hoping when it comes to the buff stage after this clear had time to dry it will buff out. If not I still have some clear left over and I will simply put more clear where it needs it and just blend it in.

For those that are wondering the paint is 1949/1950 Dodge Red. This red as per PaintRef.com shows the mixing code is the same as Coke-Cola red. Which from my research a guy who had these bikes new said the closest match to Indian red was Coke-Cola red as that's what his guy did when there wasn't any Indian red for his bike he would use Coke-Cola red for a almost perfect match. The clear is automotive grade high gloss clear that I purchased from AutomotiveTouchup which is where the base coat came from as well. I have used their paint in the past for automotive and am very impressed with color matching even for 40+ year old vehicles that are sun bleached.
 
If your going to order a new rotor and your still not happy with the pad coverage you might want to consider a 180 with a diff. mount to see if some mods. could get better coverage.
I hit the brake a few times hard spinning the wheel the pattern on the rotor showed a good contact patch i could live with it was considerably more than 50% of the rotor and once i move the wheel back more to tension the chain it should be fine for me.

I just dont like how far i have my pads adjusted out on the rear to stop the on and off scuffing with the wheel spinning.

The axle tuggers i probably dont need them but rather have them if anything just to ensure the axle stays true from side to side.
 
Back in my day (not that long ago but still) I had to order from a catalog using a phone, and then it took a long time to get to me.

What's the rush? Focus on the little details that matter while you wait.

No rush just like to get this finished before winter.

Right now work has slowed down so now im making a cheat sheet for my engine for reference. Such as im looking at 0.012" to 0.024" deck clearance for proper quench. Also like 0.023" = 1cc so need to see how much as i might need to run freds 8cc head to have it at 7cc after decking. Or go for broke and use the 7cc reguardless. Or that jagyar recommends on his site a #80 main and #25 idle jets for a mikuni 18mm carb. Is also a good starting point for me as well.

Right now im looking up piston ring specs but not finding anything on piston ring gaps only specs as in the rings dimensions.
 
No rush just like to get this finished before winter.

Right now work has slowed down so now im making a cheat sheet for my engine for reference. Such as im looking at 0.012" to 0.024" deck clearance for proper quench. Also like 0.023" = 1cc so need to see how much as i might need to run freds 8cc head to have it at 7cc after decking. Or go for broke and use the 7cc reguardless. Or that jagyar recommends on his site a #80 main and #25 idle jets for a mikuni 18mm carb. Is also a good starting point for me as well.

Right now im looking up piston ring specs but not finding anything on piston ring gaps only specs as in the rings dimensions.
I found that 80 is about proper, if you are burning more the engine definitely gets used up quick. If you keep it around there and tune it in you'll have a good balance of power and life from it.
 
I found that 80 is about proper, if you are burning more the engine definitely gets used up quick. If you keep it around there and tune it in you'll have a good balance of power and life from it.

Ah ok so shoot for 0.080" ring gap and no less that 0.080".

If i were to take the risk and run smaller gap what would be the smallest?

Curious in case i have to buy rings I know what options i have if i decide not to break out the ring filer i have.
 
Ah ok so shoot for 0.080" ring gap and no less that 0.080".

If i were to take the risk and run smaller gap what would be the smallest?

Curious in case i have to buy rings I know what options i have if i decide not to break out the ring filer i have.
I was speaking of the jetting, the ring gap I don't remember but I know Gary has the knowledge still locked up, refer to him for the ideal gap.

Don't think you'll buy a perfectly gapped ring, every cylinder has a slight difference in diameter so you'll never get a perfect ring unless you file them yourself, I'd use plain ol' jewelers files for it if I found I absolutely had to change the gap.
 
I was speaking of the jetting, the ring gap I don't remember but I know Gary has the knowledge still locked up, refer to him for the ideal gap.

Don't think you'll buy a perfectly gapped ring, every cylinder has a slight difference in diameter so you'll never get a perfect ring unless you file them yourself, I'd use plain ol' jewelers files for it if I found I absolutely had to change the gap.

Ah ok the jetting. I wasn't sure I thought you ment the ring gap I was going to say I thought 0.080" was kinda excessive on ring gap last 4 stroke I did I think it was in the neighborhood of 0.025" ring gap.

At least I guess that means I wont have to buy a whole bunch of different jets then just get like a #75, #80, and #85 jets just to see what the engine likes. And for the idle jet I will do the same thing so I can tune on it.
 
Ah ok the jetting. I wasn't sure I thought you ment the ring gap I was going to say I thought 0.080" was kinda excessive on ring gap last 4 stroke I did I think it was in the neighborhood of 0.025" ring gap.

At least I guess that means I wont have to buy a whole bunch of different jets then just get like a #75, #80, and #85 jets just to see what the engine likes. And for the idle jet I will do the same thing so I can tune on it.
Nothing I ran or tuned did well with more than a 30 idle on the happy time except one motor which took an 87 main and a 36 idle but that motor also toasted in about 3 months lol... Really though whatever you already have is probably good the idle isn't a major hurdle to deal with and can be forced to stay breathing with the idle screw when the air mix isn't doing diddly. More so the height of the clip on the needle is what gets the low end either good or s**tty when comming out of an idle, actually I notice the pipe has a bigger effect on how well it can idle some pipes give that lovely even 4 stroking pop and others just suffocate it or fail to push enough back and it just keeps 2 stroking at a low rpm..

75-80 set would probably be a useful investment though if you have a cns-like carb just go and get a complete set (usually an idle set of 30-40 and a main of 70-90) that will cover almost any engine except bare bones stock.
 
Well I got the bike pretty damn close to running. Zeda recently got more seal retainers in so I just now placed an order for a Oz super magneto and a seal retainer. Now I am just contemplating if I should order that 12V generator from Ebay. As of now I am leaning towards having my 12V lights being powered by a simple battery pack and not off the engine itself. My frame is starting to get pretty filled up with all my gear now that the motor is mounted.

Right now before I go to bed for the night I am hitting up Amazon and Summit looking at different connectors, I want to use a weather lock four pin connector for my CDI to connect my CDI to my engine and my coil. Make it easier having a plug vs trying to remember which spade plugged in where.
 
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