First build

This is my first build. I have posted for a while now but today was the first day I had where everything was in that allowed me to do my first step of painting the frame.

So far this build is going to be a retro/vintage looking Indian cruiser/board track racer.

The frame is a GT2A Skyhawk frame with 150mm drop out. The front forks are black powder coated 1 1/8" threadless Sunlite Deluxe double springer. Once my threadless stem arrives Monday I hope the paint to be cured enough to assemble the head set so I can cut my steer tube down to size then I will be using Eastwood Down to Metal paint and powdercoat stripper so I can paint the forks in the same color as the frame.

Anyways here are the photos I have taken from what I have done today.

Primered with Dupli-Color self etching primer
Primered%201_zps7iao2nnj.jpg


Base coat
Base%20Coat%201_zpsi7xkmiwe.jpg


Base Coat w/ Indian Script
Base%20Coat%20with%20Script%201_zpskjxv5nwh.jpg


First coat of clear
First%20Clear%20Coat%201_zpsoh4frllz.jpg


Second coat of clear
Second%20Clear%20Coat%201_zps0edut7ka.jpg


Third and final coat of clear
Final%20Clear%20Coat%201_zpscgsj02db.jpg


For me the shape of the frame resulted in some over spray with the clear so I am hoping when it comes to the buff stage after this clear had time to dry it will buff out. If not I still have some clear left over and I will simply put more clear where it needs it and just blend it in.

For those that are wondering the paint is 1949/1950 Dodge Red. This red as per PaintRef.com shows the mixing code is the same as Coke-Cola red. Which from my research a guy who had these bikes new said the closest match to Indian red was Coke-Cola red as that's what his guy did when there wasn't any Indian red for his bike he would use Coke-Cola red for a almost perfect match. The clear is automotive grade high gloss clear that I purchased from AutomotiveTouchup which is where the base coat came from as well. I have used their paint in the past for automotive and am very impressed with color matching even for 40+ year old vehicles that are sun bleached.
 
The idea of break in is to seat the rings and wear a smooth surface on the cylinder and bearings.
The rings are typically coated to prevent gouging and the cylinder is left with a 45 degree hone to spread oil and help wear the rings. Lots of oil is used to keep the rapidly wearing rings cool and lubed (like a cutting oil) and to flush the metal wear bits away. Constant light loads are not good. Tends to polish the rings before they seat and seal. Occasional acceleration is good as the increased cylinder pressure helps force the rings out to wear under pressure. Too light a pressure will leave vertical polished streaks in the cylinder that you cannot feel with a fingernail. This will result in poor sealing. Don't be afraid to give it 3/4 throttle in short bursts every few minutes with cooldown time in between.

Oh I was hitting up to 3/4 throttle accelerating from time to time. I just didn't want to hold it in one rpm range too long. That's why I went coasting with clutch in and hit the throttle a few times from idle before engaging clutch again and hitting the throttle firmly to accelerate back up to 30.
 
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