First build

This is my first build. I have posted for a while now but today was the first day I had where everything was in that allowed me to do my first step of painting the frame.

So far this build is going to be a retro/vintage looking Indian cruiser/board track racer.

The frame is a GT2A Skyhawk frame with 150mm drop out. The front forks are black powder coated 1 1/8" threadless Sunlite Deluxe double springer. Once my threadless stem arrives Monday I hope the paint to be cured enough to assemble the head set so I can cut my steer tube down to size then I will be using Eastwood Down to Metal paint and powdercoat stripper so I can paint the forks in the same color as the frame.

Anyways here are the photos I have taken from what I have done today.

Primered with Dupli-Color self etching primer

Base coat

Base Coat w/ Indian Script

First coat of clear

Second coat of clear

Third and final coat of clear

For me the shape of the frame resulted in some over spray with the clear so I am hoping when it comes to the buff stage after this clear had time to dry it will buff out. If not I still have some clear left over and I will simply put more clear where it needs it and just blend it in.

For those that are wondering the paint is 1949/1950 Dodge Red. This red as per PaintRef.com shows the mixing code is the same as Coke-Cola red. Which from my research a guy who had these bikes new said the closest match to Indian red was Coke-Cola red as that's what his guy did when there wasn't any Indian red for his bike he would use Coke-Cola red for a almost perfect match. The clear is automotive grade high gloss clear that I purchased from AutomotiveTouchup which is where the base coat came from as well. I have used their paint in the past for automotive and am very impressed with color matching even for 40+ year old vehicles that are sun bleached.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Well the wheel was finished when I went in today. Apparently it was finished earlier in the week but no one called. No big deal. I got it all put together only thing is the stupid drop kick stand wont fit the frame without modifications as the locking ears to lock it around the drop out plates doesn't line up fully. So I have to pull it back off and tweak it some and bend some ears up or just simply remove them to get the bracket to lay flat. Right now because its not able to sit flat I cant get the rear axle to slide forward its currently bolted down at the rear most position.

In any case I had the bike out side today for a good 3 hours as I used my Meguiars Ultimate compound on the entire frame still got a few spots I need to work by hand some more before I can start applying polish and wax for protection.
I'm still awaiting the new threadless stem I bought that is 41mm tall and the 20mm and 15mm gloss black aluminum spacers so I can raise my spring perch up 20mm to see how that is if need more I will raise it the full 35mm. I how ever right now am fixing to hit up some stores online and order some more parts. I got out of the bike shop today for $115, the wheel was $56 they charged me $6 more than they quoted and didn't charge me for the spokes I guess they decided keep the old spokes and the coaster brake hub and cut me a deal on it. I did how ever buy a 15mm and 17mm axle cone wrench so I can adjust the front bearing pre load, I also want to take it apart and clean the ball bearings off and apply my Lucas red and tacky over the thin grease that is in there already. I also bought for $29 a 7 paw freewheel cog with 16 tooth count. Its noisy as hell and loud as it has strong ratcheting on it so I will have to see how it goes if not I at least know the axle is a british thread so I can always replace it for a weaker ratcheting one that is quieter.

The 17mm worth of spacers on each side of the axle centered the hub in the frame perfectly but to center the rim the wheel should be dished about 1/8" to the left as the tire is slightly off to the right. I wont be worrying about that unless the tire is rubbing the fender when I order them. My disc brake rotor how ever is with in one finger width from the brake caliper mount just like it is on my front fork so I don't have to do any shimming what so ever. Just need to buy some more cheap parts so I can do more and continue saving up for the more expensive parts such as the engine and saddle.

I'm still kicking around what to go with for my crank and chain ring. My freewheel sprocket is chrome but its not real shiny chrome just like a silver color. Not sure if I should go with a silver colored chain ring with black crank and pedals or just go with my gut and go black on everything if possible.

Anyways here are some photos I took today.

First one is with flash

Second one is without flash

Then here are a few I took out in the sun to give a proper view of the clear coat that I am still compounding out. I have to do some touch up on the rear drop out bracket as the wheel tried to fall out during assembly and scraped the clear, base coat, and primer off down to bare aluminum. The black drop stand also tweaked a little putting the stand down as its not sitting in the locking ears so it also crunched the finish some but once I get it tweaked like it needs to be I will come back and brush some Coke Red on the bare aluminum.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/20483889@N03/36072701155/in/album-72157682854129882
https://www.flickr.com/photos/20483889@N03/36031930916/in/album-72157682854129882/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/20483889@N03/35232135394/in/album-72157682854129882/

 

[Rusty_S85]

Ordered some parts mainly the bottom bracket components, hopefully the 34 tooth chainring will fit the black sunlite 6 1/2" crank. Aside from that I have to put a hold on the chrome fenders from MBRebel as shipping is almost as much as the fenders and Ive already spent close to $300 today between my rear wheel, the 16T free wheel, and the 15mm and 17mm axle cone nut wrenches and my Amazon order of the Sunlite black 6 1/2" one piece crank, the Sunlite black bottom bracket set, KHE Bikes Clatch 33T Steel Chain Ring, and Black Sunlite classic rubber bow pedals.

I don't know what I will be doing Sunday since I am out of town Saturday, I might pull my rear kick stand off and try to put it in the vice and tweak it and flatten out some of the lock tabs so it will sit flush on my frame and allow me to move my wheel forward towards the middle of the adjustment.

 

[Crisco]

Well the wheel was finished when I went in today. Apparently it was finished earlier in the week but no one called. No big deal. I got it all put together only thing is the stupid drop kick stand wont fit the frame without modifications as the locking ears to lock it around the drop out plates doesn't line up fully. So I have to pull it back off and tweak it some and bend some ears up or just simply remove them to get the bracket to lay flat. Right now because its not able to sit flat I cant get the rear axle to slide forward its currently bolted down at the rear most position.

In any case I had the bike out side today for a good 3 hours as I used my Meguiars Ultimate compound on the entire frame still got a few spots I need to work by hand some more before I can start applying polish and wax for protection.
I'm still awaiting the new threadless stem I bought that is 41mm tall and the 20mm and 15mm gloss black aluminum spacers so I can raise my spring perch up 20mm to see how that is if need more I will raise it the full 35mm. I how ever right now am fixing to hit up some stores online and order some more parts. I got out of the bike shop today for $115, the wheel was $56 they charged me $6 more than they quoted and didn't charge me for the spokes I guess they decided keep the old spokes and the coaster brake hub and cut me a deal on it. I did how ever buy a 15mm and 17mm axle cone wrench so I can adjust the front bearing pre load, I also want to take it apart and clean the ball bearings off and apply my Lucas red and tacky over the thin grease that is in there already. I also bought for $29 a 7 paw freewheel cog with 16 tooth count. Its noisy as hell and loud as it has strong ratcheting on it so I will have to see how it goes if not I at least know the axle is a british thread so I can always replace it for a weaker ratcheting one that is quieter.

The 17mm worth of spacers on each side of the axle centered the hub in the frame perfectly but to center the rim the wheel should be dished about 1/8" to the left as the tire is slightly off to the right. I wont be worrying about that unless the tire is rubbing the fender when I order them. My disc brake rotor how ever is with in one finger width from the brake caliper mount just like it is on my front fork so I don't have to do any shimming what so ever. Just need to buy some more cheap parts so I can do more and continue saving up for the more expensive parts such as the engine and saddle.

I'm still kicking around what to go with for my crank and chain ring. My freewheel sprocket is chrome but its not real shiny chrome just like a silver color. Not sure if I should go with a silver colored chain ring with black crank and pedals or just go with my gut and go black on everything if possible.

Anyways here are some photos I took today.

First one is with flash

Second one is without flash

Then here are a few I took out in the sun to give a proper view of the clear coat that I am still compounding out. I have to do some touch up on the rear drop out bracket as the wheel tried to fall out during assembly and scraped the clear, base coat, and primer off down to bare aluminum. The black drop stand also tweaked a little putting the stand down as its not sitting in the locking ears so it also crunched the finish some but once I get it tweaked like it needs to be I will come back and brush some Coke Red on the bare aluminum.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/20483889@N03/36072701155/in/album-72157682854129882
https://www.flickr.com/photos/20483889@N03/36031930916/in/album-72157682854129882/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/20483889@N03/35232135394/in/album-72157682854129882/

Looking nice..! The white walls with silver rims and spokes really set off the red..

 

[Rusty_S85]

Looking nice..! The white walls with silver rims and spokes really set off the red..

Thanks. That's why I am trying to limit the amount of chrome I want the chrome to be more like accent trim with the black being the actual trim for the red.

Why I got the following pedals

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012TMC7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have more chrome on them than I like, especially the one I was looking at but the ones I was looking at lots of people said it wasn't rubber it was a hard plastic and it didn't last them but 6 months of normal use.

 

[Frankenstein]

Wait wait wait... They quoted one price, charged you more, made you wait for weeks, and then had the audacity to keep your old equipment? Did they even ask if that was OK?

Seriously buy some gloves, a hoody, and a couple gallons of gas in an untraceable container and finish this.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Wait wait wait... They quoted one price, charged you more, made you wait for weeks, and then had the audacity to keep your old equipment? Did they even ask if that was OK?

Seriously buy some gloves, a hoody, and a couple gallons of gas in an untraceable container and finish this.

They quoted me $50 for the building of the wheel but if new spokes are needed the price doesn't include spokes, I just look at my receipt and the guy cut me a deal he charged me $50 vs $56 for the wheel building and $39.99 for the free wheel which is normal price the 15mm cone wrench $9.99 which is right but he knocked a dollar off the 17mm and charged me $8.95. So I came out cheaper in the long run.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Aside from all that I am just browsing around to see if I can find a different gas cap that I can use. I didn't know this gas cap didn't thread down all the way to the bottom. Would like for one to thread down all the way to hide the bare aluminum. I left it bare aluminum so the cap would thread in smoothly. But only things I can find is black plastic that might not even thread down more than what I have now.

 

[CrazyDan]

Get a gas cap with a fuel gauge .

 

[Rusty_S85]

Get a gas cap with a fuel gauge .

I was looking at those but cant find any that is not for 7" deep tanks or deeper. I also cant find one that is for a 1 1/2" neck as this is effectively a weed whacker fuel cap.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Well didn't want to but spent another $35 just now. Was over at Bicycle Engines and they have a little sale going on, I got 10% off on a 415HD chain and 10% off on a chrome chain guard. They also have a silver fuel cap which is for their built bikes which is the same GT style frame. It looks taller so I ordered that as well. If it threads down further on my filler neck I will be happy if the color looks off I will either scuff it and shoot it black or take and powder coat it black.