First build

This is my first build. I have posted for a while now but today was the first day I had where everything was in that allowed me to do my first step of painting the frame.

So far this build is going to be a retro/vintage looking Indian cruiser/board track racer.

The frame is a GT2A Skyhawk frame with 150mm drop out. The front forks are black powder coated 1 1/8" threadless Sunlite Deluxe double springer. Once my threadless stem arrives Monday I hope the paint to be cured enough to assemble the head set so I can cut my steer tube down to size then I will be using Eastwood Down to Metal paint and powdercoat stripper so I can paint the forks in the same color as the frame.

Anyways here are the photos I have taken from what I have done today.

Primered with Dupli-Color self etching primer

Base coat

Base Coat w/ Indian Script

First coat of clear

Second coat of clear

Third and final coat of clear

For me the shape of the frame resulted in some over spray with the clear so I am hoping when it comes to the buff stage after this clear had time to dry it will buff out. If not I still have some clear left over and I will simply put more clear where it needs it and just blend it in.

For those that are wondering the paint is 1949/1950 Dodge Red. This red as per PaintRef.com shows the mixing code is the same as Coke-Cola red. Which from my research a guy who had these bikes new said the closest match to Indian red was Coke-Cola red as that's what his guy did when there wasn't any Indian red for his bike he would use Coke-Cola red for a almost perfect match. The clear is automotive grade high gloss clear that I purchased from AutomotiveTouchup which is where the base coat came from as well. I have used their paint in the past for automotive and am very impressed with color matching even for 40+ year old vehicles that are sun bleached.

 

[Street Ryderz]

Well im 220 with a 44t sprocket had her up to almost 35 mph but ran out of street. Think shell do 40 top end once broken in and tuned.

It might you'll have to get the pipe to stage properly and be dialed in to see it your gearing and wheel requires just over 9000 rpm to hit 40mph.

 

[6blueoval9]

Thats enough for me lol. Im going to keep her around 25 mph but dont want to have to be wide open for that speed.

Im going after 40 plus on a pretty much stock motor without reeds for this first build...i may try a 40t first and if i can hit 40 plus move to a 42 or 44 till i can still hit 40mph as quick as possible...im a torque junky..lol

 

[Street Ryderz]

Used a formula on how much hp it would take to do 50mph in the 1/8 mile with 275lbs weight...a whopping 4.99hp

I might try one of those plugs.

4.99 hp with how much torque because when I build a 6hp engine it only makes high 3's in ft lbs and very hard to hit 50 in the 1/8th if at all.Oh yeah and I only weigh 180-185 with a 70 lbs bike.

 

[6blueoval9]

Off for a bit.

 

[6blueoval9]

4.99 hp with how much torque because when I build a 6hp engine it only makes high 3's in ft lbs and very hard to hit 50 in the 1/8th if at all.

Couldnt say...it was an online calculator only showing hp.

 

[Steve Best]

4.99 hp with how much torque because when I build a 6hp engine it only makes high 3's in ft lbs and very hard to hit 50 in the 1/8th if at all.Oh yeah and I only weigh 180-185 with a 70 lbs bike.

Torque doesn't matter because it can be altered by gear ratio. HP is what it takes to get to speed.
HP is just Torque x RPM ÷ 5252 so at 5252 rpm all engines make the same ft/lbs torque as HP. Check it out.

 

[gary55]

I'd hate to be a horse on Watts ranch.

 

[Street Ryderz]

Torque doesn't matter because it can be altered by gear ratio. HP is what it takes to get to speed.
HP is just Torque x RPM ÷ 5252 so at 5252 rpm all engines make the same ft/lbs torque as HP. Check it out.

Yes and 4ft lbs of torque at 8000 rpm is 6 hp like I said and hard pressed to hit 50 in the 1/8th I went out and tried it tonight but with my 2.72 gearing and I hit 53.5 going all out it's not easy.Being set up for the quarter I'm still pulling at and a bit beyond that point and at 53 the engine is turning 7700 rpm so if we were to say that 4ft lbs x 7700 rpm divided by 5252 =5.86 hp was all that was needed to do that? No effing way I would say it took 6.25 ft lbs x 7700 divided by 5252 = 9.16 hp to do it with my gearing and there is the need for torque to be made under it's peak to turn the gearing needed to get high mph.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Well I rode the bike after work some today. Varied the speed from 15 to 30 mph never going much over 1/4 throttle. Was surprised to be cruising at 30 mph with barely any throttle once I got up to speed. Had to cut it short as I went to go pedal start when engine stalled on me leaving from a stop and the right pedal pulled the last few threads out of my crank. Rode the bike home under power with just one pedal installed. Took and tapped it to get the pedal back in and rode a bit more.

Also got my aluminum fuel cap in today that should thread down all the way but it doesn't as its a coarser thread than what my filler neck is so now I have two fuel caps that doesn't thread down far enough to seal on the gasket. So looks like I will have to use the black plastic cap that came with bike.

 

[Steve Best]

The idea of break in is to seat the rings and wear a smooth surface on the cylinder and bearings.
The rings are typically coated to prevent gouging and the cylinder is left with a 45 degree hone to spread oil and help wear the rings. Lots of oil is used to keep the rapidly wearing rings cool and lubed (like a cutting oil) and to flush the metal wear bits away. Constant light loads are not good. Tends to polish the rings before they seat and seal. Occasional acceleration is good as the increased cylinder pressure helps force the rings out to wear under pressure. Too light a pressure will leave vertical polished streaks in the cylinder that you cannot feel with a fingernail. This will result in poor sealing. Don't be afraid to give it 3/4 throttle in short bursts every few minutes with cooldown time in between.