New to the concept, but definitely having fun building this. Still have some work to do (disc brakes, better tensioner system, wide crossover stand, drum up the nads to ride it), but I think I’ve navigated a few of the mismatches and frustrations.
First Build
- Thread starter Mcdonns
- Start date
A narrower drive chain might help, I've had no problems with a bmx chain,
KMC Z510HX, on a 70lb bike with me at 260lbs, thin the sprockets teeth as needed
Mcdonns
Active Member
Don’t quite think that’ll help. Problem doesn’t lie in the caliper being able to fit in the gap between the sprocket and rotor, but in being too close to the top of the chain to grab anything. The 160mm rotor only reaches about 1/4” into the pads, even with the caliper right against the top of the chain, so I need to increase the rotor diameter. A 180mm rotor catches about half the pad surface, with just an air gap between the chain and caliper. A 203mm would allow me to stay further off the rear sprocket (allowing for a small bit of chain “floating”), get full pad contact, as well as somewhat increase the overall stopping power of larger radial grip. The leading edge of a 203mm will still be just barely off the frame (I’ve crammed a LOT of stuff, in a standard 7-spd disc hub), so I’m not sawing into anything.
I do see how a BMX chain could shed some weight, but it wouldn’t solve this particular clearance issue. Think I’ll stick with the 415.
Thank You!
gary55
Well-Known Member
All of the CNC sprockets I've seen have been to wide for 1/8" chain, but this one being staimless could be different. Then their is the 50/50 chance thet the output sprocket on the engine won't fit. Probably just need to add a washer or two to get the 203 to miss the stay. Hard to tell at the photo angle.
Mcdonns
Active Member
Yeah, Gary55, thinkin’ about 2-3mm washer will just about do it. Sorry ‘bout th’ bad angle, but you nailed it. 
Mcdonns
Active Member
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
I used to run a 1/8" kmc bmx chain but it didn't break so I thought about a 3/32" single speed chain but then I skipped 3/32" and got a 11/128" kmc nine speed instead and it didn't break either. (I'm not suggesting that you get a nine speed chain because it's another challenge to keep it's sideways flexibility controlled.) What I am suggesting is that actual strength in tension is absolutely not an issue for choosing the chain, at all.
The strength in resistance to damage when things go wrong is an important concern. The weight (mass!) is a concern, particularly if you pedal the bike any distance. The amount of lateral flex is a concern (wide chains are better). How far the pins protrude outside the side plates is a concern. You can disagree with the order I put these in.
Anyway..
I think I can see in the photo that the sprocket teeth fill the width of the rollers on the 3/16" chain.
I saw the stainless offset sprockets from the guy in Russia. I had measured my engine and my bike and I determined that because the offset at that radius is limited by the spoke heads/elbows it is 5mm left of perfect alignment with the engine. So 5mm closer to the rotor if there is one, too.
So, I tried to get him to make a couple of offset spiders for (105mm BCD, 4 bolt) bicycle sprockets so I could bolt the sprocket of my choice (32T+) inside and thereby get a second offset at a wider radius. We agreed a (very high) price, he said he would make them, and then he didn't.
It would have been really good! 
With your solid threaded axle a washer will work just fine, of course.
The strength in resistance to damage when things go wrong is an important concern. The weight (mass!) is a concern, particularly if you pedal the bike any distance. The amount of lateral flex is a concern (wide chains are better). How far the pins protrude outside the side plates is a concern. You can disagree with the order I put these in.
Anyway..
Tools | KMC Chain
Digital Chain Checker Art.nr. TOOL00DCC Art.nr. TOOL00DCC WHERE TO BUY Easy Chain Checker Art.nr. TOOL00ECC Art.nr. TOOL00ECC WHERE TO BUY MissingLink Connector Art.nr. TOOL00MLC Art.nr. TOOL00MLC WHERE..
www.kmcchain.eu
I think I can see in the photo that the sprocket teeth fill the width of the rollers on the 3/16" chain.
I saw the stainless offset sprockets from the guy in Russia. I had measured my engine and my bike and I determined that because the offset at that radius is limited by the spoke heads/elbows it is 5mm left of perfect alignment with the engine. So 5mm closer to the rotor if there is one, too.
So, I tried to get him to make a couple of offset spiders for (105mm BCD, 4 bolt) bicycle sprockets so I could bolt the sprocket of my choice (32T+) inside and thereby get a second offset at a wider radius. We agreed a (very high) price, he said he would make them, and then he didn't.
It would have been really good! With your solid threaded axle a washer will work just fine, of course.
Mcdonns
Active Member
I used to run a 1/8" kmc bmx chain but it didn't break so I thought about a 3/32" single speed chain but then I skipped 3/32" and got a 11/128" kmc nine speed instead and it didn't break either. (I'm not suggesting that you get a nine speed chain because it's another challenge to keep it's sideways flexibility controlled.) What I am suggesting is that actual strength in tension is absolutely not an issue for choosing the chain, at all.
The strength in resistance to damage when things go wrong is an important concern. The weight (mass!) is a concern, particularly if you pedal the bike any distance. The amount of lateral flex is a concern (wide chains are better). How far the pins protrude outside the side plates is a concern. You can disagree with the order I put these in.
Anyway..
Tools | KMC Chain
Digital Chain Checker Art.nr. TOOL00DCC Art.nr. TOOL00DCC WHERE TO BUY Easy Chain Checker Art.nr. TOOL00ECC Art.nr. TOOL00ECC WHERE TO BUY MissingLink Connector Art.nr. TOOL00MLC Art.nr. TOOL00MLC WHERE..www.kmcchain.eu
I think I can see in the photo that the sprocket teeth fill the width of the rollers on the 3/16" chain.
I saw the stainless offset sprockets from the guy in Russia. I had measured my engine and my bike and I determined that because the offset at that radius is limited by the spoke heads/elbows it is 5mm left of perfect alignment with the engine. So 5mm closer to the rotor if there is one, too.
So, I tried to get him to make a couple of offset spiders for (105mm BCD, 4 bolt) bicycle sprockets so I could bolt the sprocket of my choice (32T+) inside and thereby get a second offset at a wider radius. We agreed a (very high) price, he said he would make them, and then he didn't.
With your solid threaded axle a washer will work just fine, of course.
Thanks, FurryOnTheInside. Yeah, that p’ticular 32T caught my eye, when originally looking at using the 160mm, ‘cause it mighta made dead-side pad adjustments easy through the machined spokes, and I’m still plenty clear on 2.2’s with everything stacked into that hub. The pad adjust idea didn’t quite work out as planned, but I think I gained a lot more than what I lost...
It was definitely a wait, for this to come in from Russia, but worth it — it’s a very well done piece of machining, especially for the money. Since it’s motored/ratio’d for top-end flat ground, I definitely want a dependable chain with minimal sprocket run-up and no lateral to get into anything beside it, staying with brakes that can actually shut it down. I’m actually keeping the rear rim-grabber, and doing the dual cable setup for the rear disc — gonna play with the contact offset (stage-1 disc, stage-2 grabber), to see what’s safest and responsive (I see a rubber-pad-melting test on the horizon 
). Haven’t really even begun to get into the pedal-side tuning, other than to expect I’m gonna hate the factory derailleurs, but the “granny” should help with the weight in “dry” mode.
Mcdonns
Active Member
I used to run a 1/8" kmc bmx chain but it didn't break so I thought about a 3/32" single speed chain but then I skipped 3/32" and got a 11/128" kmc nine speed instead and it didn't break either. (I'm not suggesting that you get a nine speed chain because it's another challenge to keep it's sideways flexibility controlled.) What I am suggesting is that actual strength in tension is absolutely not an issue for choosing the chain, at all.
The strength in resistance to damage when things go wrong is an important concern. The weight (mass!) is a concern, particularly if you pedal the bike any distance. The amount of lateral flex is a concern (wide chains are better). How far the pins protrude outside the side plates is a concern. You can disagree with the order I put these in.
Anyway..
Tools | KMC Chain
Digital Chain Checker Art.nr. TOOL00DCC Art.nr. TOOL00DCC WHERE TO BUY Easy Chain Checker Art.nr. TOOL00ECC Art.nr. TOOL00ECC WHERE TO BUY MissingLink Connector Art.nr. TOOL00MLC Art.nr. TOOL00MLC WHERE..www.kmcchain.eu
I think I can see in the photo that the sprocket teeth fill the width of the rollers on the 3/16" chain.
I saw the stainless offset sprockets from the guy in Russia. I had measured my engine and my bike and I determined that because the offset at that radius is limited by the spoke heads/elbows it is 5mm left of perfect alignment with the engine. So 5mm closer to the rotor if there is one, too.
So, I tried to get him to make a couple of offset spiders for (105mm BCD, 4 bolt) bicycle sprockets so I could bolt the sprocket of my choice (32T+) inside and thereby get a second offset at a wider radius. We agreed a (very high) price, he said he would make them, and then he didn't.
With your solid threaded axle a washer will work just fine, of course.
Also, checked out the chain link (pun intended
) you sent! Lotsa good stuff, there!I did buy some 415 half-links, awhile back, ‘specting some stretch and mid-adjustments, over time. Put that new sprocket on, and took 6 more links out, figgerin’ the half-link would be perfect for dead-parallel chain and very little pressure on the tensioner. WRONG!!! The stupid half-links I have are too small a roller inner diameter for my master pins, and too thin to open up! Chains can be sooo finicky and confusing.
THANK YOU!
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