First timer... bike and motor in the mail. Looking for pointers.

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Zack01GC, Sep 13, 2010.

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  1. Zack01GC

    Zack01GC New Member

    Well, I just ordered my bike two days ago, and the motor kit is in the mail from a friend.

    The bike: Huffy Cranbrook.
    The engine: Unknown. Bought brand new off a friend, he's sending it to me. Said it was Chinese 80cc in-frame.

    I know neither of those items are optimal for this kind of project, but I am on a budget - so please don't insult me, I'm well aware that these are not the preferred items. I'm doing this partially for a school project, and partially for my transportation to and from campus (1.5 miles down hill to campus, 1.5 miles uphill to my apartment) weather permitting. I can use my 1984 BMW 633CSi or the bus if ("when" is a better term) if the weather is uncooperative.

    Is there anything in particular I should watch for or pay attention to when doing the build? Is there any additional parts I will need that are not included in the kit to make this work? I read that I may need some sort of adapter/clamp/bracket for the front engine mount due to the large size of the downtube. Any information on this is appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,

    PS. I tried searching, was not getting good results with the terms I was using. Sorry if this is a beaten horse.
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2010

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Yup....beating an ole horse to death...

    [​IMG] Sum Up prep checklist? Happy Time Mounts and Sprockets Hard Clutch non working Kill Switch Rear mount studs broke. fix??? Huffy Cranebrook Best way to secure a gas tank Leaking Head/Gasket Cranbrook Coaster Brake INSTALL much to break in? installing a cylinder together Solution to torqueing China HT engine mounts. No power with Skyhawk 49cc (same for 66cc) First build Were can I get a clutch pin? Clutch roller (a must have item) Break in period? Site for engine schematic

    Out of the box Engine.. This has been asked over and over and over. Time to have a copy for copy and paste.
    1) Check inventory
    2) Remove the OEM head studs and nuts and replace with metric grade 8.8 (I use all thread) and nylock nuts.
    3) Remove and discard all OEM engine mounting studs, exhaust, and intake if you like. No strain on the intake. I use RED locktite on the studs, but if removal is needed heat must be applied. Blue is fine. Use 6mm Nylock nuts. I double nut (jam nut) and use a lock nut.
    4) Torque... 8mm 150-200 INCH POUNDS, 6mm 50-70 INCH POUNDS. I use 50 and 150 INCH POUNDS. You might think either 50-70 inch pounds or 150-200 inch pounds is not enough, believe me it is. I have never broken a stud, a mount, stripped out a hole nor had anything come loose on the engine.
    5) While head is off mill the head, by milling (sanding) head surface using 220 grit sandpaper on a sheet of glass (I use 220 DA paper stuck to the garage door window). Slide from side to side and rotate, until surface is shiny. Remove as little material as possible.
    6) When reinstalling the head gasket, either spray both sides with copper kote or aluminum spray paint. I put 2 coats on either side and let dry.
    7) Remove spark plug and wire from CDI (unscrews counterclockwise) and replace (screw clockwise) with a good grade of plug wire and boot.. Boot and plug clip and a NGK plug.
    8) Take the large sprocket (for the rear wheel) and slightly grind or file the sharp edges of the teeth, both sides.
    9) Now comes the MOST important part and that is mounting the engine to the frame. For fitting you might want to tape the seat tube, for scratch prevention. For a perfect engine fit, the tubes should be at a 75 degree angle. Perfect instillation angle
    10) When installing the engine start with the rear mount on the seat down tube. Mount the engine to the frame, not the frame to the engine. When tightening the engine mount nuts make sure that the engine mount, mounts flush with the seat down tube. Mounting mounts flush Gaps in between can and will cause broken studs and or mounts from stress.
    11) If the front mount can’t be tightened to the tube and be completely flush, a custom mount is NEEDED. This is one I made Custom front mount there are other types.
    [​IMG]..Store bought..[​IMG]
    12) Once everything lines up remove the tape. DO NOT use tape, rubber or anything between the mount and tube. Some members do and get away with it, but most don’t. Should your engine want to rotate (twist to the left) due to torque you can make this bracket. Torque bracket
    13) Remove the coil cover and cut off or cut and tape the white wire. Replace cover.
    14) When installing the carburetor I insert an “O” ring. This “O” ring fits inside the carburetor and comes in contact with the outside lip of the intake manifold, thus lessening the chance for a vacuum leak. There are other methods.
    15) Make sure both the exhaust and intake gaskets don’t inhibit the air flow. Trim as needed.
    Others may add to this…I’ll do a edit.
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2010
  3. Zack01GC

    Zack01GC New Member

    Thank you. Like I said, my searching did not turn up such.

    Much appreciated.
  4. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member


    You got your facts right,poop in a group,ducks in a row. that is very good info for a rookie. S*iT even me. a refresher is all good.
  5. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Everything here has been posted before...I'd bet I could find no less then a 100 posts on this subject in 15 minutes.
  6. Stan4d

    Stan4d New Member

    Might I add that searching is highly recommended. Read all of the stickies first, then search.

    Posting duplicate questions that have been answered many times is highly discouraged.

    At the top of the introduction forum you should have seen this stickie: You had to visit that forum before posting here, why not take the time to read the important stuff.
    It contains the info that Al just posted. Making this thread useless.
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2010
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