folding daypack 33cc frik-drive

[rawly old]

fingers crossed,
think i've got pics now

 

[rawly old]

If you look closely at the bike, you'll notice a twist grip & kil
button on right handlebar. That's for the LEB channel-type
fric drive I just got with a HF 52cc. I really like this kit cuz
the roller is cogged so that it actually works better with
knobbies and gets a better grip no matter what than the
diamond checked rollers wet or dry.
It came with a twist grip instead of a chintzy lever, but was
a bit loose when installed. I solved this by cutting a cpl.
rubberbands from a bike tube and smooshing them in the gap between
the throttle housing and the grip with a slot screwdriver. The
result was a nice firm twist that stays where you put it and works
smoothly.
The grips I put on over those installed are gator skin from an old
briefcase found in a thrift, as is the tool kit. they have a thin layer
of gel foam inside and are very comfortable, ergonomic, and
terribly cool. the chrome ends are the spoke retainers off a 16"
hub. my front pannier rack is a freebie old schwinn book rack
re-engineered. (function before form)

 

[rawly old]

just a quick note on hooking up a throttle and building a drive roller:
The throttle cable on most of these weedeater/brush trimmers is
set up to pull the oposite direction from the carb. you'll need to
reverse this by attaching it to the other end of the spring-loaded
bell crank. It will also need to angle away from the engine some-
what to keep it from snagging. Because the small hook thingy will
not function from this position, replace it with the smallest fishing
snap swivel to be found and use a drop of solder to keep it closed.
Then to keep it from snagging on the carb housing, run it through
a diagonally drilled hole in the aluminum L-beam. The rest shouldn't
be hard to figure out.
Making the 36 grit drive roller, either from a deep socket or a bike
peg, requires a careful procedure to produce a durable result.
1. paint the roller with a mixed epoxy,(preferably J & B weld).
2. lay on 1/4" x 1 3/4" strips of 36 grit emory paper spacing them
in a cog-like fashion 'round the roller.
3. Now wrap the roller with wax paper and secure it in place with
rubberbands. this will prevent the strips from pulling away during
the cure.
4. after about 4 hrs., before it cures completely, remove the wax
paper, and 'lightly' paint the roller with more epoxy filling any voids.
if you apply too much you'll end up with a smooth roller. the idea
is to use just enough so the epoxy permeates completely thru the
paper while leaving the rough texture of the grit. Allow at least 24
hrs. at room temp. to cure thoroughly.

 

[srdavo]

Thanks

Nice job on your build & Thanks for sharing the great info.

Love the recycled gator-grips!! NICE!!!!

 

[Stan4d]

Really cool! it was worth the wait on the pics. I am going to try your tip on another project I have going......if it works out I will let you know.

 

[rawly old]

drive roller

I forgot to mention the first step tho it should be obvious.
Make sure the surface of the socket has been sanded to
provide a roughed face that has been cleaned of any oil
or dirt b4 applying epox. this also means removing a layer
of chrome.

 

[rawly old]

Just by way of an update, I thought I'd toss in some pics of
my HF52cc stealth tourer. Yes, the engine really is there behind
what appears to the right pannier, and yes it is fully operational.
It has a secondary muffler with reciprocating baffles attached
to the stock muffler which has been wrapped in fiberglass tape.
Over the 2nd muffler is a sheet metal cowling which protects the
functional facade pannier and directs exhaust down and away.
Though it is considerably quieter than the stock 52 it still makes
about as much noise as a honda GX25. However if your in a pass-
ing car with the windows up and the radio on, you'd never know
I was running under power.
The trailer was originally single wheel, but reconfigured, it is more
stable with a shorter T-radius, still only 22" wide, and has loads of
ground clearance.

 

[rawly old]

Further info on trailer:
The wheels are attached via seat posts and chain stays from 2 kids bikes
at garage sale, @5$ ea. The platform is epoxy coated plywd. with sections
of bike rim at either end. The hitch is a pugeot fork mounted with eyebolts to
seat post & alum. tubing reiforced to the frame with alum. plate + rad-
iator hose shock abs.

 

[Esteban]

Looking pretty good. I would suggest getting the load closer to the center of the trailer axle.

 

[rawly old]

Yeah,
I suppose that's a thought, but the platform is plenty strong enough for as
much load as I'd want to pull, and it works well as a wheel barrow this way.
The hitch swivel is reinforced with alu plate top & bottom and is very strong.
As for the fork, I'd intentionally prefer it to bend before my chainstays. Even
so, this would take a pretty serious crash. It tracks fine in tight turns.
By way of an after thought, having priced all of the single wheel trailers out
there, it appears to me that it would be a good deal cheaper and relatively
simple to spend $80 on one of these kid's trailabikes, strip off the handlebars,
seat, and pedals to build a single wheeler crafted to ones own needs. I've
seen them for as little as $30 on craigslist.