Frame mount Huasheng 4 stroke, no acceleration

I have never had that part - apart, but I think Irish John made reference to a gear puller.
 
So can I just smack the keyshaft out with a rubber mallet or is there a special way of removing it? I'm getting less impressed with the assembly of these things the more I work on the bike.


Neo
Yes buy 1/8" key lengths and be careful to ask if it is made in China or Taiwan. If they don't know tell them you want to buy from someone who does know and go elsewhere. File it down very slowly to get it to the correct size. Cut it quite a bit longer than you think it should be cos it's easy to end up too short. Use a couple of good files and if you have to buy new files remember that we will all need to do this a lot now that the cost saving Mandarins have foud a way to save money by recycling cream cheese.
Don't smack the sprocket with anything because it doesn't like smacking. That's IMPORTANT. Buy a small 3 clawed jaw puller and use that. You'll need that too for pulling the clutch off when the other keys break. Getting it back on without hitting it is a problem I haven't figured out yet - that's probably what stuffed mine up - I used a block of wood and a rubber mallet and I must have been thinking of the bloke who made the sprocket because I probably hit it too hard. It really is a fragile thing and sideways blows will affect the small circlip inside it.
It's time to send the gunboats up the Yangtse. The Olympics are over and there's a serious gold shortage in China. The sprockets are gold coloured from the residue left over in the furnace after they made all the medals.
 
Full description of the Freewheel Sprockets insides

Hey Guys, before I post this sprocket back to the supplier I'm photographing it thoroughly for MBc archival posterity. I'm posting it on my "Grubee Freewheel Sprocket Failure" thread:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=14738
I'll bet someone here will figure it all out just by looking at the pics.
It'll be up in 15 mins.
 
Reverse Thread

John, we call those reverse threads, "lefthand thread" on the top half of the world. )

Thanks for the clue on finding round tanks Ben.

Jim
 
Yes Jim I know, but the minute you cross the equator your sprocket disintegrates. When I was parachute training we got told that if our main chute failed to open we'd pull the emergency rip cord and if that failed to open we put our hands above our heads and crossed our right leg over our left leg cos it's easier for them to screw us out of the ground on a right hand thread!:)
 
Right Hand Thread

I had heard if the reserve didn't open, you bend over and kiss your bottom side goodby? Will write down your method as an alternate.

Actually jumping out of a perfectly good plane just never made much sense to me anyway.

You being a citizen of the world, Canada and AU have it all over me anyway. I haven't been out of AZ over a couple of dozen times in the last 65 years.

Your pictures of the freewheel sprocket seems to be a rudimentary design of what we would call a "sprag clutch." One or more in automatic transmissions designs from the 60's. They had a lot of pins like roller bearings around the outside. The pins had a flat side that rolled up to drive in one direction and layed flat in the oposite direction of rotation. It would seem thet the small ball bearings only take a load when the drive is in free wheel, thus don't have to be very hefty.

I may have missed mention of what holds the two pawls out against the outer race? I am guessing there is a flat in the pawl that the "C" ring pulls down and pushes it out into one of the drive slots in the outer race? It would seem they should be spring loaded out in the drive position.

Guess I should have put this comment over in the thread where you posted the pictures?

I intend to thread lock both my sprockets on the bike and the spare transmission as soon as I am allowed up from the eye overhaul this morning.
Sorry for your problems, but happy you warned the rest of us of the potentional problem.

I am still thinking through the logic of both the manual locker and the auto freewheel plus the centrifugal clutch. Seems like something might not be needed?

Jim
 
Don't know if you solved it but from first page I'm convinced that tightening your engager cable will fix the problem and if that doesn't work you must have snapped the little key in the drive sprocket shaft on the outside of the gearbox and to fix that is not hard.
Read all about it on
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=14034&page=4
Do not undo the flange on the inside of the drive sprocket and if you do be careful not to let the tiny ball bearings fall out. Then loctite the flange back on. Make sure it's done up very tight. You may need to buy small gear pullers to get the sprocket off but for $18 but they are a very good tool for undoing ill-fitting Chinese sprockets, clutches and gears and you'll use them as long as there are chinese factories.
I've just seen that I've said all this before only a month ago. I had a good brain and a good memory before it got Grubeed. I'm off to take some thaimine tablets if I can remember where I put them.
 
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Having the same problem. All keys are in and solid. The clutch just won't turn the rear wheel. My clutch was installed backwards but worked fine for 86 miles. (spring side out) I had thought my using old lithium grease caused the clutch to glaze and slide. Installed new clutch today and same thing. Just spins and makes heat. The rear ratcheting 11T rear sprocket Does not get warm and the keys are fine. Pulling my hair out here. With the low noise running Honda, I am wondering if she is just not reving high enough and will check tomorrow. Only thing I can think of. Engine actually sounds to good. As in not working hard or labored (I really love the GXs)

Edit; Engager is held with spring but do not see how it could be the problem. (thinking now it may need another look)
 
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Danny I suspect you've silently sheared the drive sprocket key again by engaging it at revs. It has to be that. Lithium grease doesn't get on the inside the bell housing unless there's so much in it that the gear wheels have difficulty turning. When you take the freewheel sprocket off do yourself a favour and drill 3 holes in each of the three segments of the clutch - 9 holes all told as per picture & doesn't have to be that exact - the exact width of the gutter that the spring goes in or as close to at as whatever drill bit fits and clean it really well. If there is a grease problem inside clutch you'll know to use less grease but I very much doubt it is that. It has to be the sprocket shaft key. An easy fix but time consuming and dirty. You'll need a small gear puller from the local hardware store. An essential tool anyway. You can use it to pull the sprocket off too. There is one other thing - look at the sprocket to see if the bearings have fallen out and if they have it's come undone and you need a new one. Those freewheels should have been loctited closed on completion as per all good cycle standards but they aren't. The flange undoes clockwise (remember this) and you do that in a vice using a small centre punch in the little hole. But you only need do this on a new one so you can loctite it - be very carefull not to lose the tiny ball bearings because it's easily stuffed up. Buy 2 freewheel sprockets because you only get 4000 kms out of them before the teeth wear out and they start to wreck the chain.
 

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Key Stock Source

Danny, I see there are a couple of Harbor Freight stores in your neck of the woods. I bought a nice "storehouse" box of key stock there yesterday for around $4 on sale. There are keys from 1/8" square to 3/8". Around 5 of each size. I figured I would need them for my Grubee box sooner or later.

I have two spare clutches that have the narrow keyslots. I need to either widen the slots or make keys that have a step in them to fit both the engine and the narrow clutch slot.

Good luck.

Jim
 
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