Frame mount Huasheng 4 stroke, no acceleration

[Danny3xd]

Thanks for the replies John and Jim. Greatly appreciated. Both rear and CC keys look great. Just reassembled and just spinning and smoking from clutch. Final drive shaft can not be turned by hand while holding it with pliers. In pics, am I missing some thing, well obviously I am but those are the keys you advised to check?

(another bummer about this is I am hosting the ct rally next week. Have a BGF80cc back up on a kuluna so not a very big deal but a hair puller)

Really, I thank you both for your time and thoughts. Gonna go soon to HF. Is a great idea to have spares on hand.

 

[Irish John]

Danny, I'm nearly sure its that the engager isn't engaging cos that would either turn the shaft or stall the engine. I'll read back through & get back but the engager cable might just need adjusting tighter.
It's not the final drive sproket shaft key I can see it's not sheared.
It's simple to fix & we'll get it sorted, Back soon after I've eaten. Don't despair help is on its way!

 

[nsideus]

I think Irish is right if all the keys are good most likely the engager isn't engaging. With the gearbox engaged and chain on, roll the bike backwards you will hear the gears spin if engaged. One other thing is your freewheel on right? The side with teeth should be next to the box.

 

[HoughMade]

Nope- if the engager was not engaged, the thing would just spin and the clutch would not smoke. He said the final drive shaft cannot be turned by had with pliers. He should be able to turn the final drive shaft easily without the pliers. Assuming this is all accurate, sounds to me like the final drive shaft is seized. I've never heard of that problem before.

 

[Danny3xd]

Wow, thanks Guys. Thought this was a dead thread. GB is in parts on the garage floor but will put it back together and test walking it backwards. It did not want go backwards and I would pick up the rear of the bike but will try forcing it and see. Thanks Nsideus.

HoughM, I mean that holding the rear and final shaft with pliers, I can turn the freewheel sprocket forward but not reverse. The shaft and ratcheting seem to be functioning. I should have been more clear. My bad.

Side note, didn't want to do the rally w/out a MB. Hurriedly put an old 2smoker on a Kulana. Man, fun buzzing around town. A large DMV is about 16 blocks from where I live. Fun to blow by the traffic enforcement guys wot. Yes I are that evil, snork

(Funny thing is used at least 3 times the gas as the Honda would have for the same bounce around town)

 

[HoughMade]

Can you turn the final shaft without pliers, just with your fingers?

 

[Danny3xd]

Yes, spins easily. This is kind of mind blowing, eh? Every thing seems in perfect and good working order. I really am at a loss. Took the GB off and started the engine while holding a rag over the clutch bell housing. Revved just a bit and tore the rag away. Clutch is engaging.

 

[HoughMade]

I'm going to side with the guys above. Only thing left is that the engager is not all the way engaged. I would physically tie (wire, zip tie, whatever), the engager lever engaged when I put it together- make sure it is angaged when you put it together. Do not disengage it, then start it up and see what happens. I think it was Irish who, early on, had a little trouble with the engager not being engaged all the way.

My engager in permanently engaged and I do not disengage it.

 

[Irish John]

Danny, looking at the pictures you posted I see the main shaft key is quite near the end of the shaft so that make me wonder if it is far enough up the shaft to firmly grip the clutch itself. If you've missed keying the clutch to the shaft it would mean you have no power whatsoever. When you slide the clutch down the shaft I usually push the key well down the keyway so it lifts up slightly at the end where the keyway starts to run out. This ensures a tightly fitting clutch. If the clutch is well mounted that key shouldn't be so visible at the end. I may be wrong but if I am right it explains your problem.
Can you turn your chain sprocket backwards with the engager engaged without your gear wheels turning? If you can then it is definitely not a key failure on the final drive shaft and as your two keys look fine on the final drive shaft I have to suspect the main drive shaft.
The look of that key so far forwards on the primary drive shaft makes me suspicious that the clutch itself might be spinning independently of the shaft and thus not engaged. The best way to check it is to pull your engine starter rope while looking through the clutch bell holes to see if the clutch turns when someone slowly turns the engine over by pulling the starter rope. You need a helper for this task or a big mirror. When the engine turns over the shaft turns with it and the clutch MUST turn with the shaft.
If it doesn't spin then that is the problem and if it does spin then take it apart anyway and reassemble it cos it looks like it needs better assembled.
This problem can be solved quickly if you report back on what I've written. It's 9.30AM and I'm around all day to respond.
Check that engager as well by looking at it closely with the GB cover off and turnng the drive sprocket backwards when engaged. I had this problem with my first build and the engine lost drive power. I figured out why only when I lost my temper with it and pulled really hard on the engager which was enough to make it engage properly and thus showed me that the problem was it not engaging properly. Hearing it clunk into the engaged position doesn't always mean it is engaged enough to stay engaged under load. The cable needs to be tightened if that is the case.
THIS PROBLEM CAN BE FIXED TODAY SO THE RALLY GOES AHEAD.

 

[Irish John]

I am thinking that you may have put the clutch on the motor backwards (with the side that you can see the springs from facing out)

I am also guessing the clutch segments will be thrown out, but not really wedge against the bell housing. Thus no real power to the output.

Worth a check?

Jim

Jim, The clutch on the Grubee can be turned around either way without making any difference and I swap it around to wear it evenly if it looks too worn on one side. Here's another fact about Grubee gearboxes. The freewheel drive sprocket has a life span of about 4000 kms before it begins to ruin the chain and you will notice it catching on links and making horrible noises. Never put a new chain onto a sprocket that is really old because it will not mesh with it it will just wreck the new chain and it will damage the final shaft bearings. This means that your supplier needs to have a lot of drive sprockets in stock at all times and the ability to post them out quickly.