Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
1) Do you still have the original Wal-Bro carburetor on it?
2) Do you have a tachometer/hour counter?
3) Are you using a 100% gas?
4) What's your maintenance schedule?
2) Do you have a tachometer/hour counter?
3) Are you using a 100% gas?
4) What's your maintenance schedule?
D
Deleted Member 4613
Guest
So what do you suggest I do with my engine?
D
Deleted Member 4613
Guest
Yes, it's the original carb. I don't like the fact that when I
slightly push on the carb, it affects the rpms, like the
rubber o ring attaching the carb has degraded. I
don't know.
slightly push on the carb, it affects the rpms, like the
rubber o ring attaching the carb has degraded. I
don't know.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
What kind of gas are you using? A 100% is best if you can get it, ethanol really sucks.
D
Deleted Member 4613
Guest
Maintenance schedule? Are you kidding? I use
the gas at the local station, and I believe it contains
alcohol, a no-no.
the gas at the local station, and I believe it contains
alcohol, a no-no.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Do you have a tachometer/hour counter?
D
Deleted Member 4613
Guest
No, but I can hear how it operates. It does reach max
rpm but needs a good warm-up. My Honda GX50
runs so much smoother and it super easy to start.
rpm but needs a good warm-up. My Honda GX50
runs so much smoother and it super easy to start.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Ears can deceive you. Here's a thread I replied to on adjusting the knock off replacement carbs.
RWJ WALBRO CLONE CARB ON SALE!!! $14 BUCKS!!!
GET YA ONE OF THESE BAD BOYS WHILE THEY ARE CHEAP!!!! I use these on 100cc steel sleeves with great results, awesome power!! If you wanted to try a good saw carb, get this one while they are cheap. I love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MQCVX2Q?psc=1&smid=A1P7CL4DSE120L&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp...
motoredbikes.com
Unlike the Wal-Bro it has 3 adjustment screws instead of 1.
First take your engine drive chain lose. With the tach in place you can then adjust the new carburetor.
With the throttle wide open adjust the high screw to max rpm and leave it there.
Then with no throttle adjust the low screw to max rpm. Next turn it (CCW) to where the rpm just drops favoring the rich side and leave it there.
Last of all adjust the idle screw to 3000 rpm.
With the hour counter I change my oil every 25 hours and clean the air filter every 10 hours of use.
I change the fuel filter once a year and the spark plug every 2 years.
Recently a Shell station in my town started selling a 100% gas. Before that I carried a second knock off carburetor because the E90 would clog up my jets every few months. Meaning I'd have to tear down the carburetor and clean the jets. I installed an in line fuel valve to make changing the carbs easier. On more than one occasion I had to change the carb while out riding. Fortunately all it takes is a number 2 Philips screwdriver to do it. The spare carb I carry with me has been pre-adjusted.
The best part is the tachometer/hour counter and carburetors are very affordable from eBay. Generally under $60 for 2 carbs and 1 tachometer/hour counter.
D
Deleted Member 4613
Guest
The carb you mention is out of stock. Mine has only one
adjustment screw for idle.
adjustment screw for idle.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Does your crank spin while under engine power?Well, this my second bike using the inexpensive, light weight 5:1 scooter gearbox
and a double right-sided drive. This gearbox has a flat front face on the drive side
which allows attachment of ordinary hardware store "L. s," then the motor/gearbox
can be bolted to a motor mount which attaches to the bicycle frame.
Here's the gearbox: https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/trfor3336434.html
The concept allows conversion of engines that do not have fastening points at their base
to chain drive. Any motor 2 or 4 stroke that fits the gearbox can be converted
to chain drive. Here's a link to the first bike I did using steel staton supports for
the rear of the bicycle motor mount:
SWEET - 5:1 Gearbox With Double Right-Sided Drive
This is my new build, finished which I consider an advancement of the art of motorized bicycles because it has so many benefits over current designs, like the Dax chain drive and the GEBE belted drive. Here's some pics: Here are the benefits: 1. Low cost gearbox 2. Motor close to tire for...
Here's the advantages of the concept:
1. All weather chain drive.
2. Motor is positioned closer over the wheel than friction drive.
3. Since there are two independent free wheels, with the motor off
it rides freely like a bicycle - no clutch drag.
4. Wide selection of gear ratios; drive sprockets, 8mm, come in
10,11, 12,14,17, and 25 teeth, and the 8mm wheel sprocket is available
in 44,54,63, and 72 teeth. I have used a 11t drive, and 44T wheel sprocket
for an estimate top speed of 24 mph, but far higher top speeds are
possible with different combinations, like 40-50mph.View attachment 173075View attachment 173076View attachment 173077View attachment 173079View attachment 173080View attachment 173081
5. Accepts a wide variety of motors, like Honda GX50, GX35, Subaru EHO 35,
Tanaka PF-4000, and 3000, and Zenoah G43L.
6. No chain tensioner is required.
The drive is built by:
1. Removing the multi-speed cassette.
2. Screwing on a freewheel with the rear 8mm sprocket bolted to it.
3. Inserting a 1/8 inch spacer washer over the first freewheel (from McMaster-Carr).
4. Screwing a single sprocket bicycle freewheel.
5. Using an 8mm chain.
NOTE: The basic frame mount has to be made of aluminum back with steel angle iron or just
use steel angle iron. The mount here is back with angle iron.
Here's some pics:
