Friction drive question..Motor keeps bogging

Everything you said makes sense...i definetly should figure out the lowering of the motor problem that's what i'm thinking it is..prob to much tension the rear tire..and maybe try a new spark plug...i'm a newbie when it comes to this so i got lot's to learn..only owned this bike for 1 month..my first gas bike..
 
I ran twin Mitsubishi TLE engines on my cruiser bike years ago.

It was dependable, except for dozens of rear tires I wore out.

I had many flat tires. The rollers help push nails and screws deeply into the tire tubes.

Dimension Edge is a good kit. Their kit is slightly different from conventional FD systems.
They have tons of info you can use.
Contact them for information:

http://bikemotor.com/

Or post pictures; someone will figure it out.
 
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Thanks..yea that's the same site last guy sent me....have you ever owned the exact kit as mine? and have you ever had to install the rear cable where the spring is? i'm wondering if i'm not putting in the spring properly..that maybe it's not engaging...i'm not sure if you should put it in the hole through the top or underneath..in the pictures on that site it almost looks like it's underneath
 
Hard to tell in those pics witch way the spring is installed through the top or bottom! haha sucks no 1 post anything on youtube about it either...
 

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I have not owned your kit.

However, it seems that the cable runs through the spring. The spring must be secured by a bracket. Maybe the same bracket that the cable housing is secured to.

BTW, your TLE engine's carb does not have adjustments for low and high speeds.
 
Gotcha yea! i'm more worried about witch way the spring goes in lol..i'll try putting it underneath and see if it that works..and yea i tryed finding an adjustments and nothing!
 
Gotcha yea! i'm more worried about witch way the spring goes in lol..i'll try putting it underneath and see if it that works..and yea i tryed finding an adjustments and nothing!

Yes, I had that same engine.
No carb adjustments, only idle adjustment.
With an expansion pipe, it ran lean and crispy.

Regarding your cable connection.
The most important thing you need to do is to immobilize the cable sheath,
where the stranded cable exits.
That's probably at that large bracket on the right side of the picture.
Using common sense and the laws of physics,
if the spring attaches to the lever ABOVE the lever's pivot point,
the spring WILL need to be connected to the lever
and a stationary position on the LEFT side of the picture.

HOWEVER, , if the lever pivots in its center, and the spring attaches to the lever BELOW the lever's pivot point, the spring WILL need to be connected on the RIGHT side of the picture.

The cable pulls the lever; the spring tries to return the lever to its original position.

The other attachment to the spring is on the control lever
near the friction roller.

Hope this helps; it's just a logical guess.:)
 
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Thanks and yea all common sense to some point lol...i'm still new to this so alot of it is consfusing! lol but thanks most of it makes sense
 
Sleep on it. Lots of the solutions to my problems come after a night or several nights' rest.

And Google.

I took another look at the pictures.

The lever pivots in its center.

The spring seems to connect above the lever's pivot point.

Look for the spring's attachment to the left of the picture,
past the lever.

If the spring had somehow been out of position,

look for a hole in the lever below the pivot point.

Then the spring attachment might be where the cable sheath is secured,
or any position towards the right of the picture.

https://motoredbikes.com/threads/how-does-the-dimension-edge-system-work.18222/
 
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I found your earlier post and Furry's suggestive link:

http://bikemotor.com/template.html

This should do it. It's the exact cable replacement procedure.
Steps 1,2,& 6 refer to the engine side.
Steps 3.4.5.7.&8 refer to the handle bar side.

Here's my take on it:

Insert cable end INTO the spring.
Snake the cable through the cable sheath from
the engine side towards the handle bar.

It seems like there is only one end of the spring that has a hook.
It hooks into the lever near the engine side(not the handlebar side).

Secure cable sheath at the front and rear.

With the engine side hooked up as tight as possible,
loop the cable at the handlebar side and pull as tight as possible, around the threaded stud.

When you tighten the cable, the hand lever at the handle bar end might have to be in the static(rearward) position, not the tensed(forward) position.

Crimp the cable at the handlebar side.
The cable MUST be tight.

You might need more than one crimp, in case you don't get the cable tension correct on the first try.

That should do it.

Good luck.
 
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