Friction drive roller lifespan

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by samijubal, Jun 9, 2009.

  1. samijubal

    samijubal Member

    I see a lot of talk about tire wear and friction rollers but don't see anything about roller lifespan. About many miles would a Staton 1" or 1 1/8 inch roller with the Subaru engine last? My total weight would be about 200 pounds and there are a fair amount of hills where I am. I realize there's probably a lot of varibles, just looking to get some idea of roller life.

  2. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

  3. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    alaskavan reported a relatively high wear rate on his, but, he ran it year round, and they use a lot of sand on the snowy roads in Alaska...

    I've had mine (staton) for a couple of years, and you can hardly see any wear on it.
  4. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    aprox 2 thousand miles -- Staton -- shows hardly any wear

    ride that MB thing
  5. samijubal

    samijubal Member

    That's good to hear. I saw that photo but I didn't see where he said miles on it.

    What size roller do you people use? Total weight will be about 200 pounds with the EH035 Subaru. There's some hills where I am, most aren't very steep and I don't mind pedaling a little up the steeper hills. I'm only looking to go about 15-20 MPH but would like to keep engine RPMs down as much as possible while still being able to go up moderate hills. Should I spend the extra $10 for the double engagement rods or does it even matter?

    One more thing. How do you carry anything with you? I have the double Wald baskets on my bike now and love them but they will have to go to mount an engine. Does anyone have baskets of some kind? Do you use a backpack?
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2009
  6. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Roller size is really subjective because many want one roller to do it all. Most want to go fast. If you are sure you only want to do 15-20 and you have any hills I would stay small, 1' or 1 1/8" tops.

    I weigh 200, have that kit w/a Robin35 1" roller and it's great and a great engine. I live in a river valley and it's mostly flats but there are hills getting out of the valley and those hills eat it up.

    And yes, IMO the dual supports are definately worth it.

    my 2 cents
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2009
  7. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    I thought all the staton friction kits came with double engagement standard now... Check the description on his website, maybe it changed back.
    I also have a staton friction RS with 1in spindle. It's great for putzing around at about 18-20mph cruise. If you have some serious hills be ready to do lots of pedaling.
    I would suggest the Mitsubishi TLE43 with 1 3/8in or 1 1/4in roller. That engine has way more bawlz than the robin and I'd take it any day if mixing of gas and oil isn't an issue... which it really isn't.
  8. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I'm probably gonna get yelled at BUT as well as longevity concider functionality.
    BMP's standard drive roller has a one-way,self-locking bearing which i've found to be a great feature.
    I've only done around 700Mls but as u would expect it still looks new.......expectation 5000+.
  9. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    double rods ---- oh yes

    double rods ---- I think the extra rod should be a must
    believe me -- if you buy the extra rod
    you will never wish that you had not

    yes -- the old back pack

    ride that thing
  10. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Heh, hope no one feels like they're being yelled at, I'll scrupulously avoid the use of caps lol.

    The OP asked about how the Staton spindles hold up, so I'll offer this. I have both kits. The Staton spindles are hardened steel. The BMP rollers are not, they are mild steel. How the one way bearing holds up, time will tell, but one thing certain I can definitely say is I do not share the same expectation of roller life in keeping with my actual experience.
    On the right is new, on the left less than 500 miles.
  11. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    un-hardened roller ??

    would have to be the un-hardened roller -- right ??

    man that's a lot of wear shone
    if it wears like that -- would think you are getting max grip ??

  12. samijubal

    samijubal Member

    Do any of you have problems with thorns? I'd think the FR would force any thorns deep into the tire. I used to get flats from thorns weekly until I double lined my front tire with a nice thick motorcycle tube. Most of the thorns get in the front tire but I've pulled them out of the back tire too.

    How are these engines at high altitude? I'm around 4200 feet I think.
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2009
  13. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    :idea:I've had good luck using the "tire within a tire" method. Haven't had a flat in a few months.

    I've also changed routes. Before, I rode on the glass-ridden bikepath.

    Now I ride down the middle of the highway and boulevards.:jester:

    All five rollers look brand new.:whistling:
  14. samijubal

    samijubal Member

    I've never had a problem with glass or anything like that. Lots of flats from thorns though. They are super sharp and I'd think the roller pressure would force them through almost anything.

    I'm beginning to wonder if one of these friction drives will work at all where I am. I checked my street today, it's a 10.5% grade. My street is about the steepest around but just guessing from what my street is I'd say 5%-8% grades are pretty common around here.
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2009
  15. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I'm thinking of using this idea but first i wanna try black plastic PVC piping(round/unribbed/semi-flexable 2" water piping)
    Cut it in halves & lay it down as a super tough tyre's also very thin which helps.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 10, 2009
  16. samijubal

    samijubal Member

    That's a good idea. I think I have some of that pipe in my garage. It's already coiled and may just fit right in the tire.

    I'm now looking at the Titan set up from Thatsdax again. I like the simplicity of a friction drive but I just think there's too many hills here in the Rockies for that type of set up. Thatsdax and the Titan both seem to get great reviews. I would rather have the Subaru engine than the Titan and the simplicity of a friction drive over a chain drive but I guess everything is a trade off. At least I could ride the chain drive on wet streets, which there's been a lot of here this Spring, the Titan should have more power for the hills too. I just wonder about the lifespan of a Chinese engine compared to a Japanese engine.
  17. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    My NOT buy the Titan setup if your planning to ride for extended periods on dirt roads. :annoyed:
    As for the engine itself it's very very good,maybe not quiet as good as the genuine GXH50 but totally acceptable.
  18. samijubal

    samijubal Member

    Don't plan on any dirt road riding.
  19. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    You'll be fine then......even a small amount of dirt would be fine,but NOT extended periods at high speeds.
    BTW...if u do that plastic piping mod before me don't forget to sand/file any sharp/rough surfaces that come into contact with the tube.
  20. samijubal

    samijubal Member

    I've got my tires double lined with motorcycle tubes which are far thicker than bike tubes. I'll stick with that set up until I get a flat. They were a major pain to get in there straight and I don't want to pull them out after all the time it took to get them in. I haven't had a flat since I double lined them. I had them single lined at first and after a season that way I finally got a slow leak from a thorn. The poly pipe would no doubt be better at stopping thorns than tubes but those things are so sharp sometimes they might even get through the pipe.