Friction drive roller lifespan

Whats wrong with extended dirt riding?
The jackshaft assembly was not designed for extended rides on rough dirt roads at high speeds...it can't handle the vibrations.
If u have a Titan & think it can i'de suggest u carry an AMAZINGLY EXTENSIVE tool kit.
 
friction in the rain -- don't enjoy at all !!

At least I could ride the chain drive on wet streets, which there's been a lot of here this Spring, the Titan should have more power for the hills too. I just wonder about the lifespan of a Chinese engine compared to a Japanese engine.

not much rain here in San Diego
but with the little rain we do have
I have noticed -- friction drive does not work good at all when wet !!

so even a day or two after a big rain
since the ground will still be wet in a few places -- expect a

slipping bummer of a motor bike ride

for wet areas -- chain drive would be -- way better

MM
 
I moved to Utah from Poway, between SD and Escondido. I could ride year round back there, not around here.
 
I've got about 2000 miles on my Stanton with a 7/8" drive and just ordered an new roller drive because of wear. Can someone give me some details about how to change out the roller drive? (I've taken the engine off before but I don't know how to get the bearings and drive out once the clutch bell is removed. Thanks.
 
1. Remove complete assembly from bike.
2) Remove engine after unscrewing four bolts.
3) Remove snapring from outboard bearing.
4) Send to machine shop. They will
A. Unscrew clutch drum and spacer.
B. Remove friction roller and bearings from engine housing.
5) Press outboard bearing into channel with snapring on inside.
6) Press inboard bearing onto new roller with snapring on outside.
7) Carefully press roller into housing from engine side. Snapring will bottom out in the housing.

TIP#1: You don't need the roller to press-fit into the bearings. Light sanding on the roller will allow it to slip onto the bearings easily.

TIP#2: I haven't tried this yet, but I WILL, the next time I need to change rollers or bearings. If you clearance the engine housing just enough so that the bearings can PUSH-fit, it'll be MUCH easier to replace or change the size of your friction rollers. Then you'll have to have BOTH bearings' snaprings on the outside of the engine housing.

TIP#3: Machinists charge an arm and a leg to R&R friction drive stuff for me. It is cheaper for me to buy a new clutch drum, spacer and bearings than to have them removed and reinstalled.

TIP#4: Vendors charge $12/pair for bearings, $30 each locally. You can buy them here much cheaper: http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/AZ8205.html?id=5hP6hLJV

TIP#5: I know this one guy who drilled two 1/4" holes straddling the outboard bearing. Then he bolted on his steering wheel/gear puller and PUSHED the entire drive assembly out of the housing. He also pressed the bearings into the housing this way.

TIP#6: I knew this other guy who used a hammer instead of a puller.

TIP#5: Install new bearings when changing rollers. At $4/pair you can't go wrong.
 
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I know that you miss the weather a little bit

MM

I miss being able to do stuff like ride year round. I kinda like the snow though. I can ride most of the time here, it's just an adventure sometimes and can definitely be cold on the hands and face even with protection. I went for a ride last winter when the snow on the streets was melting a little and the water that got thrown up on my bike froze on my cables and I couldn't shift.
 
I went with the rear mount Titan from DAX. He made me a pretty sweet deal I couldn't pass.

Most of where I am is uphill/downhill depending on which direction I'm going. From what I've read it's not very well suited for a friction drive.
 
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