Friction Drives - Staton, Inc.

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by srdavo, Mar 4, 2007.

  1. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    I recently bought a used Staton-inc friction drive kit. (23cc mitsubishi)

    other than a few short rides around the neighborhood, I have not been able to give it a good test. wet streets & cccold weather have kept me garage bound.
    does anyone have any input for me? things to watch out for?


  2. beast775

    beast775 Guest

    friction drive

    well wet weather expect to use only quarter throttle,and the more you push down the worse things get.i had a 35cc honda with clutch friction drive and you have to be easy with them the clutch will shut off wide open unless your using pedals.i suggest a maxxis tire with no tread they are sticky.and are about 45.00.the most important thing is trueing the drive wheel and depth of your drive wheel on your off to work and can do better later.ive got 3700 miles on my kit.
  3. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    23cc mitsubishi/schwinn zoom

    23cc friction drive, assembled today.....okay, 10 minutes :lol: I spent the rest of the day riding it.



    the 28.8 0n the speedo is from a downhill off the overpass down the street. I started up the overpass at 22 mph, I was at 18 at the top without pedaling. I get a solid 23 mph. on flat ground.


    these tires roll fast!!! 59_100_1442_1.jpg

    come on guys... it's only 23cc's, I weigh 240lbs.
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2008
  4. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    pretty cool Dave ! 8)
    that's impressive from that small an engine :shock:
    1 mph/cc !!!
  5. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Mitsubishi 43 cc friction drive. About 500 miles on a Nimbus Armadillo tire,and I've got bad tread separation. I hit lots of potholes, etc. I ride too fast (coming down a long hill I get too busy to look at the speedo when it passes 47mph). So I don't know if the tread separation is atributable to the drive system, or the way it's driven. Anybody else?

    Attached Files:

  6. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    yes, these little statons flat out freewheel on the downhill side!!
  7. Jim H

    Jim H Guest

    Real nice Dave, I love those classic schwinn mid weights.
  8. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    thanks Jim, I got the speedster on a trade-in, when I sold the chopper, I'm pedaling in my Avatar pic.

    I haven't noticed any damage or unusual wear on my tires, since using my friction drive. I mostly travel on paved roads...& try to dodge the potholes.

    How about take-off? I throttle gently & pedal up to 8 or 9 mph before i let my throttle completely take over.
  9. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    :cool:i had a STATON friction drive w/ROBIN 35cc engine. since i was a newby, the rear tire took abuse from the roller being adjusted too loose one day. using 100psi PRIMO tires on my 20" folding bike.

    i also have an abusive style of pushing off 5 steps, then jumping on the throttle. since my seat is as far down as possible, it is not an option to pedal before using the engine. i guess i could have gently rolled onto the throttle.

    the few times i rode in the rain, i feathered the throttle and the roller did not slip as hard as i anticipated.
  10. Jim H

    Jim H Guest

    I've never had a friction drive but a lot of people seem to use them. It's all relative I think whether you wear out tires faster or belts or chains. All need ongoing maintenance and repair; that's the price we pay to have the fun and transportation we crave and need. BTW, you traded up real good Dave.
  11. dbigkahunna

    dbigkahunna Guest

    Dimension Edge

    I have a DE set up I got off e-bay. I am supprosed at how well the wooden rollers work. Mine has the TC300 direct drive so I dont know how a centrifugal clutch will operate. So far I am quite happy withe the scrubber drive. I am upgrading to a Maxxis Hookworm for the larger surface area.
  12. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Broken Staton engaging support

    I broke an Engaging Support yesterday. Right off, I want to say I DO NOT blame the materials or workmanship of the Staton kit.
    1) I should have bought the extra support when I purchased the kit. It still might have broken because,
    2) I ride like a maniac. Things break. So be it.:smile:

    Here's what I hit that was the proximate cause of the break. That rock has been there at least 6 years. I know it. I should have avoided it. My bad.:rolleyes:

    Here's the damage. I snapped the engaging support rod right where the pin keeps it from rotating (weakest point).


    I decidded I wanted to beef up the whole support system. I looked around out in the junkyard and settled on some electrical conduit for the repair.


    I cut it to length and flattened the ends in a vise.



    I drilled one and test fitted it before trimming off extra material, rounding corners, etc.

    I had to remove the motor because I needed to attach the new support at this point, and Staton uses a bolt there. I should have, and next time will, replace the bolt with thread stock so I won't have to do this the next time I break stuff.

    I removed the retaining pin from the engaging support, extracted the end of the rod, cleaned the threads up, reassembled and reinstalled the rod.

    The whole thing is a lot more solid. I can really feel the difference. Tomorrow, I'll go ride the gravel roads up in Porcupine, and see if I can break it again.:cool: I'm betting it'll last a while.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 12, 2007
  13. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    excellent fix!!

    looks like your turnbuckle held just fine. I still dig that idea.

    that rock is part of the road? I've seen that on gravel backroads, but never on a paved road. glad you stayed upright!!!

    nice work on the repair.
  14. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Thanks. A couple of thoughts:
    1) I would recomend some kind of reinforcement like what I made for anyone planning on getting a little rambunctious with their rack mount.
    2) I'd like to find a way to "lock" the turnbuckle.
  15. larymor

    larymor Guest

    The main thing is you survived! That rock could be the tip of a rock the size of the moon!!
  16. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    can you add a nut to one of the hooks, the screw it down to the body of the turnbuckle?
  17. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I'll stop by the shop on the way out to Porcupine today and get a nut for the turnbuckle. One end of it must be threaded clockwise.
    Thanks for the suggestion.
  18. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Put a nut on one end ot the turnbuckle and it held fine. I put 75 miles on it this afternoon. About 50 Highway, and 25 on gravel roads and river beds. I'm lovin life. I was doing 20 on the riverbed (soft sand, hard sand, pea gravel, 3"-5" river rock). Felt like a kid with an ultralight dirt bike. Not one nut vibrated loose. This thing is solid. I did notice one thing today that I hadn't anticipated, I've worn the friction roller pretty smooth where it contacts the tire. I've got the 1.5" roller. I think I'll order a small one next time. This bike will be used almost exclusively off road/back road when I get my new bike next month.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2007
  19. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Hi Bama,
    Sounds like a good idea. BTW, on my way home last night, my engine started bogging at top end. I remembered a post you made about the screen in the muffler clogging at about 700 miles. That's where I'm at on the odometer. I'll pull the screen this morning. It was nice to be able to diagnose the problem imediately due to your post. Thanks.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2007
  20. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    kudos to bama for being the problem advance!!