friction roller idea - cheap easy replacement

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by Gungatim, Oct 28, 2008.

  1. Gungatim

    Gungatim Member

    OK, this is either a stroke of genius or just plain stupid, you tell me.

    Reading all I can on here about friction drives, as I have a nice little Homelite 32cc motor just sitting there begging for something to do. A lot of threads talk about the sand/JB weld coating, and it got me thinking. My Solex 3800 has a drive wheel that is "carborundum" coated. Looks like a sanding sleeve to me... So I says to myself, hey, what about your Ryobi spindle sander in the woodshop? It uses these rubber sanding drums in varying diameters. You slip a sanding sleeve over the rubber drum, then tighten down a nut against the rubber drum which expands it tight onto the shaft, filling the sleeve. I know I have a 1 1/4" diameter drum and some medium grit sleeves, so what ab out using this for a friction drive on the motor?

    When it wears out, just unscrew, slip on a new sanding sleeve (like $6 for a 3 pack) and tighten it back down.

    Any ideas why this wouldn't work?

    I'll try to post a pic of the sander to let any non-woodworkers know what I am talking about.

  2. Gungatim

    Gungatim Member

    pics of Ryobi OSS 500 sander - available for $99

    I am sure you can find the replacement drums pretty cheap, or buy the whole machine and re-sell it w/o the drum you need.

    Attached Files:

  3. Gungatim

    Gungatim Member

    Ok, I thought of one drawback, the motor on that thing is only like 1/3 hp, not sure of the torque, but maybe a gas engine would be too much for it. OTOH, I have smoked some pretty hard oak on that thing and never had the sleeve slip.
  4. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    I think it would work fine unless the sleeve is made with a cardboard backing (like most sandpaper) and quickly disintegrates when wet.
    A 32cc motor should have at least 1hp and will work well as a friction drive. A 1.25in scrubber may make it struggle up any hill though.
  5. Egor

    Egor Guest

    I was digging through the garage today and as I looked around for an Idea, There it was just like you are stating. Mine came from a kit from Harbor Freight Tools, only 7.95 for the whole kit. It looks like this. Have fun, Dave

    Attached Files:

  6. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    You can go to a hardware store & buy a small grinding wheel with a 1/4" shaft that fits in a drill, cheaply. Wrap it in a cloth to protect your eyes, & beat the grinding wheel with a hammer. You will get a lot of small fine grit. Mix the fine grit with JB Weld & apply a THIN coat to the friction wheel. Keep the balance of the grit in an old medicine bottle for when you need to coat again. After drying, you may need to slightly back off the roller pressure on the tire. This lasts a lot time & reduces slippage when riding in wet conditions. On a friction drive,,, NEVER over-rev motor to where the drive roller slips on the tire ; always start off by pedalling & SLOWLY accelerate ; always keep an eye on tire pressure & drive roller pressure on tires. Doing these things, you will be much happier with friction drive, & roller & tires last a long time, & you will have a bigger smile !
  7. Dadkins1

    Dadkins1 Member

    I used a skatboard wheel that was turned down on a lathe to about 1 1/2" It has a black plastic core that is just soft enough to grab the tire and hard enough to not disintigrate - I have about 100 miles on my first one with no signs of wear on the tire or the skatboard wheel.
    Now when you ride thru a puddle or moisture you might want to drop the throttle or it is going to rev like crazzzy ! not good in the wet ! Dry AWESOME ! Wet bad !
  8. Mountainman

    Mountainman Active Member

    rebuilding your friction wheel

    that sandpaper plan -- don't think will work for long -- at all...

    note -- the roller can always be taken to a welding friend
    who can tack a little -- ROUGH WELD -- around the roller
    this is what we call on the mountain top -- VERY LONG LASTING -- GOOD ROCKS

    with vacuum cleaners (Kirby) that had MUCH use
    worn out drive shaft -- do to long time belt wear
    this tac weld works GREAT -- super traction !!!

    ride that thing
  9. Rgvkid

    Rgvkid Member

    My roller, 1.5 peg tacked and smoothed down with an angle grinder and flap disc.

    Attached Files:

  10. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    That roller is gonna last longer than the bike. Nice job!
  11. Dadkins1

    Dadkins1 Member

    Longer than the tire - thats for sure !
  12. Dadkins1

    Dadkins1 Member

    Show me yours I'll show you mine

    Here's mine. This is before I took the rough edge off the outside - has probably 100 miles on it at that point - now has 250 - NO sign of wear on my tire and the roller is holding out really well. :grin:

    Attached Files:

  13. pumpbuilder

    pumpbuilder Member

    Buy a 2x4, a hole cutter the size you want and just use plain old wood. Works great in dry weather and won't do much wear on your tire.
  14. Dadkins1

    Dadkins1 Member

    I like the wood roller idea - different species may provide different rates of friction - I would think 5 quarter or 1 1/2" thick would work best. You could probably make one of hardwood and if you had a hobby lathe or full size lathe do some cross hatching or knurling for traction.
    Or... make a wood one as described above and dunk it in a jar of that rubberized coating you use for pliars handles - let dry - re drill hole washers on both sides and bingo.
  15. hill climber

    hill climber Member

    i just cut a few inches from my floor jack handle, good hard STEEL and it is knureled and i dont miss those few inches on the jack.
  16. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    I'd like to know how you guy's are making out with the "weed eater and chainsaw motors". I've heard alot of guy's in the past complain about these motors wearing out because of the bearings in the end.
  17. pumpbuilder

    pumpbuilder Member

    You will want a good Motor. I've been riding kits from this guy for almost 20 years. His design is different then all the rest and he has been around longer then all these other guys.

    As far as the steel thing goes its tougher on the wheels then the wood or what I use, eurethane. Tried steel back in 92[?]:sweatdrop: I think. I have a stone wheel that I use in wet weather, mud, etc that keeps it running like dry weather. Its a little tough on the tires but I am never stranded and with his system can change to it from a regular roller in about 2 minites.

    His kits are not cheap Chinese quality but still made here in Montana so they will cost more then a happy time but they don't require special spokes etc so they don't cost more then the other non chinese.
  18. eastwoodo4

    eastwoodo4 Member

    i think your sandpapaer roller could r u going to mount it to the weed eater?
  19. Dadkins1

    Dadkins1 Member

    I agree - the sandpaper roller idea looks good -as for mounting - most have a rubber core that a metal shaft goes thru - then when you tignten the nut on the shaft the rubber compresses/expands and holds the sandpaper on - Im thinking the rubber core might work good without the sandpaper ?
    Less wear on your tire !
  20. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    To those who are inexperienced or just don't know,,, the majority of tire wear by a friction drive,, is the RIDERS fault !!