Brakes Front Brakes

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by PhoobarID, Mar 20, 2010.

  1. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    Almost ready to break-in my 4 stroke after riding about 4 miles for a virgin ride with coaster brakes only. Ran out of gas on the ride & sheared the key on the free wheel. Got this fixed & runs like a dream now.

    I'm running a Schwinn Jag I got last summer from a "big box" store. Because of the weight put 12 ga/2.125 tires on front/back. Have a coaster brake on the back & took off the stock brakes on the back. The front has the stock brakes still installed...but not wired up. The new wheels are wider than the stock 14 ga which came with the bike.

    The problem is that it's looking like I'm not going to be able to run with the stock brakes since the wheel is too wide to get proper spacing. Want to run a drum brake...but without the almost $100 extra I need for the front Huffy wheel...I want to get these front brakes running if any way possible.

    Anyone have any suggestions on using these or purchasing another set for about $20 or less with a web site which will work for my MB? Not sure which type of brakes I have...but have included pictures to help you.

    Attached Files:

  2. professor

    professor Active Member

    You have V brakes pictured.
    Why can't you just put a longer inner cable on and hook it up.
    I really like V brakes. I hear they work as well as mechanical disc brakes.
    I know my Vs work great.
  3. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    Got plenty of cable hooked to it...too much that we're going to have to shorten the outer sleeve to keep it from getting caught in the spokes or getting in the way. My buddy & I are worried that the alignment won't be right for the pads to grip right.

    Is there anyway to adjust the arms to match the same interval on each side? One side is almost against the rim...while the other is a couple of inches from the other rim.

    Last edited: Mar 20, 2010
  4. I have a Jaguar and use the standard V brakes. There is quite a lot of adjustment built into them. You will have to play around with them a bit to figure out which screws adjust what. Or you could take it to a good bike shop and ask them to explain how to adjust them. You may have to put on thinner brake pads if the wheel is too wide, but I doubt it. I used a wider rim and tire on the back and I have to adjust the brakes all the way open to remove the wheel to repair flats, then back when finished. It's a pain, but do-able
  5. professor

    professor Active Member

    There is also an adjustment on the amount of spring loading each side can exert (at least on the ones I have), this is to accomidate adjusting the shoes to back away from the rim and getting them to activate (relatively) together.
    Pretty cleaver deal.
  6. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    Fantastic!!! Am forwarding this to my buddy who's the mechanical genius.

    Want to get the front drum eventually...but right now...nope.
  7. abikerider

    abikerider Member

    Ideally you want the arms to be close to vertical with everything adjusted correctly. With a wider rim, you can do this by switching the inner and outer washers/spacers that are used to mount the brake pads on the brake arms. If you look closely, there are spacers on either side of the brake arm where the shoes mount. One is thicker than the other. Here is an excellent video tutorial on adjusting v brakes The only thing I would add to this video is that the easiest way to get the pads to sit flat on the rims is to just hand tighten the brake shoe nut so that the brake shoe can swivel around a little. Then get the brake cable adjustment right like in the the video. Then pull on the brake lever while moving the brake pads with the other hand till the pads are square and centered on the side of the rim. Now really squeeze the lever hard to keep the pads from moving while at the same time tightening the brake pad nuts and then double check that the pads sit flat on the rim and are centered on the side of the rim when the brakes are applied. If not, loosen the nut and try again. There's definitely some finesse involved in getting it just right so it may take a few tries. After that you can use the small screwdriver to loosen or tighten the small screw on each arm to center the arms on the rim. If the rim rubs after this then you either need to true the rim or give the brake cable a little more slack. Good luck.
  8. abikerider

    abikerider Member

    With v brakes you should be able to remove the wheel easily after unhooking the noodle (the curved metal tube) which allows the brake arms to pivot away from the rim. See at about 37 seconds into the video. If you have REALLY wide tires you may have to deflate them before removing or installing the wheels.
  9. PhoobarID

    PhoobarID Member

    Thanks for all the great help. Thought it was going to be something hard like doing brain surgery.

    If I'd done my research before ripping everything apart originally...wouldn't be in this predicament.:devilish: