Front Drive Question

Rocky Mountain RM7 -Super Motard-

Th bike is complete & pics are posted on both the New picture Gallery & old Picture Gallery under this same title.
Thanks to all...
-Lowracer-
 
EXCELLENT!

How fast can it go? 27mph?

Ya know, I was thinking about buying a GEBE kit. You and I have similar skills, shop equipment and workspace and have inspired me to try to build belt drive kits for front AND rear!
 
I have now put some mileage on the 'JB Welded rim to rim pulley' front drive Rocky Mountain RM7 MTB 'SuperMotard' & all is well. It'll do 35 mph @ WOT in an aero tuck. I just ordered a Whizzer sheave to experiment with a rear drive project I've been mulling over for another MTB I have sitting in the closet. This one is a Litespeed Titanium Obed hardtail MTB with a Marzocchi Atom Bomb spring/oil fork. I'll stick with the V-Belt drive but not sure if I'm going to go 4 stroke again or 2 stroke. Also tossing around rack mount vs in-frame mounted engine...? -Lowracer-
 
A frame-mounted Mits with shift kit might just be the ticket.:bowdown:

Once you go shift kit, you might now go back to any other engine drive.
 
I'm loving the Front wheel drive, its almost broken in & I'm constantly tweaking it.
-Alex-
 

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Low-racer, thats great. I have been hoping to see that type of build for a long time. I would be afraid of using JB Weld on such a critical interface. Perhaps you can use a hobby riveter and rivet the two rims together at intervals between the spoke beds. (this would help with building/truing the wheel as well.) What engine kit is that? Please share.
 
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Yes, its a Robin EH035 with most of the shroud cutaway now for cooling. I haven't riveted the rims as of yet, but am planning on it since I recently had to chisel two brackets apart that were JB welded/bolted & the stuff was very easy to seperate just hammering a screwdriver at the seam. I better rivet before its too late...lol
The whole mount is simple. Its 4 'L' brackets & some steel bar from Lowes drilled & bolted. It allows the 7" front suspension to operate stiction-free, & since lowering the fork in the triple clamps, handling has been hugely improved. I've been tweaking it since the 1st build, trying to set the engine lower & closer to the fork as well as more engine mounting points other than just the clutch housing faceplate. I also relocated the fuel tank slightly outward & am using the bolt holes built into the Robin engine as additional mounting points to the rack & that has improved things a bunch. I can pretty much run over anything now without fear that the engine might shift.
-Alex-
 
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