front engine front wheel drive question

[MotorBicycleRacing]

Looking good.....

What is the diameter of your drive wheel? It looks too big
Should be about 1" to 1 1/4" for that little motor

The knobby tire might be a problem too, smoother will work better

A whizzer sheave is probably what you have
See the attached pic

 

[astring]

engine on front? how about that breathing thing?

 

[rkbonds]

Forbisher, I think you may be right I've got to get my other drive wheel out but, first I've got to go get a different nut to hold it on. I believe the wheel that's on there now is a 2". I have another tire to put on if I need to but, I need to get another one to match it that came off a cruiser.

With the engine on front and me being up higher than the engine the exhaust is lower than me so when riding it doesn't get a chance to get up that high.

Thanks for the support!

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

2" is way too big. You would need over 5 HP and weigh about 100 lbs
to make that work

Dave Staton sums it up very well in his ebay ad for a 35cc Subaru

Pick from: Model FDR-335-.875 has a 7/8" drive roller and is good for riders over 250 lbs and or if you have lots of hills with a top speed of about 22 mph.

Model FDR-335-100 has a 1" drive roller is good for riders up to 200 lbs and some hills top speed is about 25 - 27 mph.

Model FDR-335-1125 has a 1-1/8" drive roller is the standard and most common size for riders up to 200 lbs that want a fast top speed about 30 mph.

Model FDR-335-125 has a 1-1/4" drive roller and for riders 165 lbs or less and mostly flat ground 33+ mph.

 

[rkbonds]

I was hoping it would work wasn't sure that it would but, thought I'd give it a try anyway. Now on to the smaller wheel. I might try sanding the wheel down to get a better size but, not sure how well that would work?

 

[rkbonds]

Woo hoo that was the ticket. I changed the drive gear and it will pull me at a very good speed ( no speedo yet ). I still might go to a little smaller gear but not sure yet. Still need to do a little more testing but, I know I'm close now. Now I have another problem the whole drive assemble fell out while I was riding I got all the parts just have to figure out a way to "lock" it into the motor assembly....

 

[rkbonds]

Ok did a little more fine tuning today and think everything is set up the way I want it for now. Let me know what you think.

 

[Esteban]

You will see a great benefit by swapping out the tires, both of them, for a narrower, smoother city type tire. Knobbies are the pits on friction drive & they add a lot of rolling resistance.

 

[duivendyk]

About the only thing that could be made to work without endles hassles is some kind of friction drive,you need something like a 25 to 1 or even higher reduction to the front wheel.To figure road speed vs rpm use the formula S= 0.075* rpm.(26" wheel).For instance at 200 rpm,S=200*0.075 or S=15 mph.So let's say you want to run this engine at 5000rpm.The required reduction is 5000/200, R=25
That takes a two stage reduction,or rather a jack shaft set up.
Friction drive, the size of the roller determines the speed at 5000 rpm with a 1" diameter roller,the circumferential velocity is
5000* 3.14*1.0*60 inches/hr , 1mile = 5280*12 inches and the speed becomes S=14.86 mph.The problem with a friction drive is to come up with a roller,(some guy on this forum is an expert in this field.) and a mounting system for the engine that exerts enough downward pressure.I advise against crafting something your self.look around.

 

[rkbonds]

I got some new tires today that look like slicks with only a few small groves cut in them and also finished making a new drive wheel will hopefully see how both of those turn out tomorrow. going to try old drive wheel and new tires first then new tires and new drive wheel and see which is better.