Front Engine mounts

Motor mounts are in place now I played around with a bunch of different materials
to try and soft mount the engine First was the rubber mount then a leaf spring type mount. The Teflon spacers seem like they will hold up to the vibration and reduce the metal on metal friction Then I made a set of poloypropeline spacers 1/2 inch thick
Together with the Teflon I may just have made a decent semi soft mount I will post photos when I can.
 
Engine mounts

Hi, I've tried neoprene type stuff between the rear mount block and the frame but I think nothing is probably the best solution. I never use the Chinese studs because the steel is so brittle and has air bubbles in it. I buy 12.9 hardness 6mm diameter non-Chinese bolts and cut the end off and thread it myself. Even these break eventually (usually flush with the engine casing so you have to drill the stud out) and if you can't get the stud out without ruining the female thread you then have to drill & tap an 8mm thread into the casing. The hole then comes very close to the edge of the casing but the 8mm studs don't break. Use anti-seize in the studs so you can get them out if they break. For the front mount I use a rear clamp turned inwards with a hole drilled in the middle and a long 8mm very hard steel bolt going through the downtube with a big washer, spring washer and nylock nut to hold it. These never break. Sometimes I use several of the rear clamps turned inwards towards the motor to serve as spacers and will reach the downtube of a Schwinn cruiser so the engine is attached securely to the downtube. Never had a front bolt break using this method and even alloy downtubes seem to take the vibration OK.
 
Thanks for the timely info on motor mounts. I guess I still have a hard time understanding why vibration resistant motor mounts are bad. It just seems contrary to everything I've learned. Then again, I'm not mounting a Chinese motor to my bike frame. I sure hope the 2007 Tomos Streetmate A55 engine is smoother.
 
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