Frothing fuel and carb vibrations?

[crassius]

I'm a repair shop and see a LOT of frames that have been cut by vibration at the sharp edge of the motor mount - I always put a piece of PVC pipe cut to about a 120 degree arc between motor and frame at the rear mount - I use some in front only if it needs spacing as there is less force there. Any kind of soft material will either turn to mush from the hot exhaust fumes or just be cut by the sharp edge before the cut continues thru the frame.

 

[Bill Carson]

See that’s odd you say that because from most posts I’ve read everyone seems to not recommend putting anything between the frame and engine mount. Most people say it actually increases the vibration but I may look into your suggestion. When you say “float valve tab” are you referring to the Y shaped piece of metal that contacts the float in the float bowl? And you’ve got me really curious about the clear vinyl.. how long has it held up for you? This heater hose had been fighting me from the beginning and I’ve worked with that clear vinyl plenty of times and it does flex really well under hot water. That’s what makes me nervous using it to connect to the intake manifold since the manifold gets relatively warm from the engine... wouldn’t it heat up and get soft possibly leading to a collapse?

Sorry, I assumed you had a reed box. The clear vinyl was for extending filter. The tab I'm talking about is the part that hook through the spring and controls the fuel flow. As far as the mounts. I don't post what I've read or heard. All my posts are based on busted knuckles, blown up engine experiments and hundreds of hours and dollars.
The tire tube WORKS. If you are trying to get way low vibe, it won't happen with these Chinese engines.
A balanced crank is the best option.
Don't expect to much. These things are basically expensive toys.
Don't drive yourself nuts, just have fun.
Oh yeah, on your intake, the most important thing is airtightness.
Use whatever fits and seal with JB Weld. (Not the Kwik-Weld, the 24 hour) That stuff holds anything.
God bless you.

 

[Bill Carson]

I'm a repair shop and see a LOT of frames that have been cut by vibration at the sharp edge of the motor mount - I always put a piece of PVC pipe cut to about a 120 degree arc between motor and frame at the rear mount - I use some in front only if it needs spacing as there is less force there. Any kind of soft material will either turn to mush from the hot exhaust fumes or just be cut by the sharp edge before the cut continues thru the frame.

My experience with rubber is different, but I like your idea for the PVC. I'm going to be rebuilding my bike in a couple of weeks, and I am DEFINITELY going to try it out with some schedule 800 PVC.
Thanks.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

IMHO (and this has been said before by others) when a compressible material is compressed to its limit, it is no longer compressible, so then it works like a hard shim, just like the rigid PVC pipe.

I would use the hard shim material if I decided a shim was needed, since I would worry that rubber splitting might feel like, or mask, the feeling of a tube crushing when the mounts are torqued down.
We must avoid crushed tubes.

 

[Kpi890]

Sorry, I assumed you had a reed box. The clear vinyl was for extending filter. The tab I'm talking about is the part that hook through the spring and controls the fuel flow. As far as the mounts. I don't post what I've read or heard. All my posts are based on busted knuckles, blown up engine experiments and hundreds of hours and dollars.
The tire tube WORKS. If you are trying to get way low vibe, it won't happen with these Chinese engines.
A balanced crank is the best option.
Don't expect to much. These things are basically expensive toys.
Don't drive yourself nuts, just have fun.
Oh yeah, on your intake, the most important thing is airtightness.
Use whatever fits and seal with JB Weld. (Not the Kwik-Weld, the 24 hour) That stuff holds anything.
God bless you.

Do you have any pictures of the clear tubing air filter extension? Now I’m curious! And I know you mentioned JB weld but have you even seen the self fusing silicone tape? Here’s a link to it at HD. I use it a lot on our farm for repairs and I feel like it would be a great option for sealing air leaks on intake manifolds. I have also see guys on here use it to seal up connections on homemade exhausts.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

1 in. x 10 ft. Black E-Z Fuse Silicone Tape

https://homedepot.app.link/TvqVZFzXiL

 

[Bill Carson]

Do you have any pictures of the clear tubing air filter extension? Now I’m curious! And I know you mentioned JB weld but have you even seen the self fusing silicone tape? Here’s a link to it at HD. I use it a lot on our farm for repairs and I feel like it would be a great option for sealing air leaks on intake manifolds. I have also see guys on here use it to seal up connections on homemade exhausts.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

1 in. x 10 ft. Black E-Z Fuse Silicone Tape

https://homedepot.app.link/TvqVZFzXiL

I know the stuff your talking about. I don't see any application on my intake setup, but I am going to extend my expansion pipe and I really think it will work well.
I had totally forgotten about that stuff. Thanks for the reminder.
God Bless You!

 

[Kpi890]

I know the stuff your talking about. I don't see any application on my intake setup, but I am going to extend my expansion pipe and I really think it will work well.
I had totally forgotten about that stuff. Thanks for the reminder.
God Bless You!

Yea man no problem. We use the hell out of it at our farm. I used it 2 years ago to fix a hydraulic return line on a skid steer and it’s still holding solid and air tight since.

 

[Arty]

Thanks from me too about the tip on "EZ-fuse" tape. I can't think of anything on my bike I'd use it for, but to have it on hand around the house would be great.