Fuel, Compression, Ignition

Yes there is a 85w 8 coil stator in the flywheel that produces power for CDI plus the lights and accessories
2 coils for spark and 6 coils for Lights and accessories. Basically the Modern Whizzer M/B has a 150cc GY6 electrical system.
Sounds like that sucker will power my home when the power goes out like it did tonight...lol...All my surge protection worked except for my 25 year old Bose speakers on my computer...Waaaaah, Whine, Snivel, Cry some more, etc...lol...Now i have to use my digital logitec speakers which just dont have the right analog sound i had with my Bose...WAAAAAAH...lol...DAMIEN
 
I got ambitious last evening and dismounted my engine. I removed the rubber soft mounts and set the engine back on the frame to check the fitment. There was still a clearance issue with the front derailleur even with the 48T chain wheel removed. I decided to ditch the front derailleur all together, and just attach the 36T as the single chain wheel on the crank. The rear wheel has a 6 gear cluster ranging from 14 to 28. If I need any gearing lower that that, Well that's what the engine is for ;-) There is a 26T on the crank as well, but I'm taking that off too. This bike was a real wall crawler, with a lower than 1:1 ratio. I'm going to have some issues with the exhaust pipe clearing the crank. I have a few tricks to try before I have to resort to bending the pipe. A couple of my 'Hall of Shame' items might help. The aluminum heat-sink/extension might work. The banana pipe is just too fugly for words ;-)
 

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As long as its not me
I had a hard time getting started on this project, but all the advice I got about resolving the vibration issue helped. I'm stopping by the hardware store on my way home to get a few metric fasteners and some different, semi-rigid materials for mounting. I'm pretty excited about the improvements I can make. I love a project once I get started ;-)
 
I fired up my torch, and it turns out that I have plenty enough gas to heat up and bend the exhaust pipe. The rose tip is really hot, and the pipe got cherry red fast. The pipe bent easily (too easy). I bent it too much and it interfered with the right side crank (Oops!). Bent it back almost too much, but have about 1/4 inch clearance from the left crank and pedal. It may have worked better if I had some sort of mandrel to bend around. The pipe did discolor some. The blue and orange sheen on the chrome doesn't bother me, but the black silicone from the previous heat wrap got pretty crispy. I will apply heat wrap on the lower part of the pipe (above the muffler) as I had before. I will leave 2 1/2 inches unwrapped at the header for cooling. The heat wrap isn't necessary (I like it) but now I do need to cover up some ugly from the botched bending job ;-)
 

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I seem to recall some buzz about some new brand of box store type of plugs sold at most hardware, BiMart and WalMart stores locally. Marked with an EXXX serial number, seems some users were happy with their performance and ability to not foul. I have not tried them, seeing that I am an NGK advocate.
 
Im with you on this one Lewie...ive never had a problem with an NGK plug and they just run smoother than all the others i have ever used...DAMIEN
I have a story about bike that sat for 43 years with an old NGK plug that started and ran on it, after I took it out and cleaned it with a MAPP torch. Of course it needed a new carb and a set of cleaned points. but it fired up after the second kick with fresh gas in the floatbowl, here's the video.

 
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