Break In Fuel gas mixture for break in

[Martin Harris]

Break It-in like you Love it.

I ran my First 70cc for a break-in period of 200 miles and went to a 40 to 1 ratio and it's piston and rings self destructed, learned that more oil means less power , but longer life. Faster is not a better thing. This is not a crotch- rocket. Slow and steady...gets you there Freddie.

 

[wayde]

i ask how do i know if i have roller bearings or bushings with out taking the motor apart

 

[gone_fishin]

ask the seller.

your "f80" (65cc) very likely has bushings...

 

[wayde]

i've tried to contact the seller with no response

 

[gone_fishin]

i'm fairly certain i'm correct, i haven't heard a thing about (cough!) "80"'s with bearings yet.

personally, from hard experience, i recommend you use 25:1.

 

[atcspaul]

here is a link to a handy calculator i found for oil gas mixhttp://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html

 

[SpeeDemonX (malta)]

my 49cc seller told me to break-in using 16:1 silkolene (scoot 2) low-smoke semi-syntetic oil. and after break-in 20:1. thay's a lot of oil but till now i'm not having any problems and the break-in nearly finished. The only problem is that the rear of my bike is becoming black with the burned oil
If you have any comments about the mixture please pass them on. 10x

 

[alesterfeind]

I had a a couple large black globs of oil drop down on my frame under the engine sprocket area. Probably the size of a piece of chewed gum. Not sure if that was from the engine or the chain oil build up under the sprocket housing. Anyone else have that happen? I was wondering where all the unburned oil goes.

 

[ChrisHill]

In my opinion...

and with having built over 40 bikes that are still up and running great (some with 1000's of km's on them), I would have to say that your best bet for a break-in mix is between the 16:1 - 20:1 point.
After 500 km's (my engines) lean it out to 25:1, or at the most 30:1...if you do normal putting around (35-50 km/h, no more than about 3/4 throttle for the most part of your riding).
If you do a lot of WOT (not recommended on any type of engine) or heavy trailer pulling keep your oil at the 20:1 - 25:1 ratio.
This will help you to help your engine live a long life.

I would have to say NEVER use a synthetic or even semi-synthetic oil for your break-in period...NEVER. You will not allow the engine components to seat properly and will likely lead to an early grave for your engine.

Also, just because someone had mentioned it earlier...do NOT use a regular 2-stroke oil like you would for a chainsaw or weedwacker. You will get a lot more carbon build up with those lower grade of oils.

You should use a quality, low-ash, high flash-point, 2-stroke oil formulated specifically for air cooled 2-stroke motorcycles.

There, that's my two cents worth...it's nice to have some time to get on here and do some writing, lol.

 

[ChrisHill]

I had a a couple large black globs of oil drop down on my frame under the engine sprocket area. Probably the size of a piece of chewed gum. Not sure if that was from the engine or the chain oil build up under the sprocket housing. Anyone else have that happen? I was wondering where all the unburned oil goes.

Is your carb leaking at all?
Are your rear mount studs tight in the engine block?

If your carb is leaking (even a little) and the fuel gets down and behind your rear mounting block it can and will eventually run out and will be black from sitting with the aluminum. This would give you the black looking oil down your seat tube and around the crankset. Best remedy is to fix the leaky carb, and keep your fuel shut off when the bike isn't in use.

If it's leaking out of your mounting studs, you should tighten them up...maybe even give a small squirt of some "copper" permatec in the stud holes. I have had other engines brought in for me to fix that had the stud holes drilled in to deeply which created a small hole in the block. Both, from other manufacturers as well as people who have snapped the studs, then tried to drill and tap new holes. Fixing this will help a poor running engine to behave a little better as well.