ya had it for 4 months now and it,s allway.s worked.with the piston down you can see the cylinder wall and piston without taking the head off,or if it,s carboned up.since this is $7 and a gasket is 5 it,s not a bad deal.magnetic base makes it stationary.
Would someone explain the "notches on the carb needle"? Or slots, or whatever? I put my HT engine together with almost zero documentation, so I just stuck things where I thought they should go. I don't recall any options of where I put the throttle cable, nor any slots/notches...help?
i ran my no name 55 cc in at 16/1 with cheap oil then moved to 20/1 as the manual sugests but lost top end .after 3 years and 10 motors the boys and i ( we've got a group of riders that work together ) i've found 18/1 to be the optimial mix yes it has an oily pipe but the fuel/air is spot on and top end power is great (60kmph 44 tooth) .the extra cost of using an expensive synthetic oil is negated by the quantity of cheap oil.eg i ran 30/1 motul full syntetic 20 dollars a litre and got less performance(though no smoke ) because even with needle on full lean(top notch) it was still to rich. another factor is alttitude its sea level here ( lotsa air).it would be different in the mountains.so save money use cheap oil 3 dollars a litre at around 18/1 and get more power.