azbill
Active Member
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DougC
Guest
Will this setup work???..... (i hope!)
This was how I was planning on plumbing the auxiliary tank, anybody know an obvious reason it won't work?
The facts:
1-the frame tank is mounted above the tank of the engine.
2-the engine's own original fuel and return lines into its own tank won't be changed at all.
3-the auxiliary tank will have two lines that connect into the engine's built-in tank. Note how the ends are oriented: the fuel will run down the red line, and the air will run up the green line. The fuel from the second tank will run down until the level in the engine's tank reaches up to the (green) air line, and then it will stop. ....I think.... ?
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This was how I was planning on plumbing the auxiliary tank, anybody know an obvious reason it won't work?
The facts:
1-the frame tank is mounted above the tank of the engine.
2-the engine's own original fuel and return lines into its own tank won't be changed at all.
3-the auxiliary tank will have two lines that connect into the engine's built-in tank. Note how the ends are oriented: the fuel will run down the red line, and the air will run up the green line. The fuel from the second tank will run down until the level in the engine's tank reaches up to the (green) air line, and then it will stop. ....I think.... ?
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Attachments
A
Alaskavan
Guest
Doug,
On mine I used the Staton setup. I hooked the intake to the carb to the bottom tank and the return to the aux tank. With myMitsu 43, it was just a matter of leaving the black hose from the original tank on the carb. pulling the clear hose off the carb and connectiing it to the clear hose from the aux., and plugging the black hose from the aux. to the return outlet on the carb. But It seems like your way should work too. I had to mess around for a little while to seal the cap on the bottom tank. I think I used some butyl rubber.
On mine I used the Staton setup. I hooked the intake to the carb to the bottom tank and the return to the aux tank. With myMitsu 43, it was just a matter of leaving the black hose from the original tank on the carb. pulling the clear hose off the carb and connectiing it to the clear hose from the aux., and plugging the black hose from the aux. to the return outlet on the carb. But It seems like your way should work too. I had to mess around for a little while to seal the cap on the bottom tank. I think I used some butyl rubber.
B
Butch
Guest
Doug, this is how I hooked up my aux. tank. Works great.
Butch
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6313&page=2
Butch
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6313&page=2
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DougC
Guest
I don't know exactly what the fuel intake and the fuel return line are doing when the engine is actually running, but I know that this would keep two regular containers sequentially full, assuming one was elevated above the other. And when refueling I should be able to fill both tanks just from pouring fuel into the top one.
Why do the carbs have two fuel lines? Is the "return" just for when you pump the little priming bulb? I've got a weedwacker and I can see the bubbles going through the lines when the priming bulb is pumped, but I don't see bubbles going through the return line the rest of the time.
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Why do the carbs have two fuel lines? Is the "return" just for when you pump the little priming bulb? I've got a weedwacker and I can see the bubbles going through the lines when the priming bulb is pumped, but I don't see bubbles going through the return line the rest of the time.
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Alaskavan
Guest
They have a small tank that could be used as an auxilary at:
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/
You have to look around a bit on their site to find it.
http://www.bicycle-engines.com/
You have to look around a bit on their site to find it.
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DougC
Guest
home-made tank questions....
I'm welding a tank out of sheet steel. If it leaks when I test it (and it probably will) is there anything else to do other than spread braze around where the leak is?
Also--can brass be brazed to steel with bronze rod? I may be able to get some 1/4" OD steel tubing that the brass pressure connector can lock onto but if not I'll need to use something else.
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I'm welding a tank out of sheet steel. If it leaks when I test it (and it probably will) is there anything else to do other than spread braze around where the leak is?
Also--can brass be brazed to steel with bronze rod? I may be able to get some 1/4" OD steel tubing that the brass pressure connector can lock onto but if not I'll need to use something else.
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azbill
Active Member
you could use a gas tank sealer like Kreem
that should work
that should work
L
larymor
Guest
Alaska,
I think that link to the fuel tank is the same one that Butch used on his R/S35. He doesn't say where he got it that I can see...but it looks exactly the same to me. They are $30 plus $7 or $8 for the valve..then whatever shipping is at bike-engines.com. Of course if you need the seat post mount that is another $15-$20....gettin kinda spendy.
I think that link to the fuel tank is the same one that Butch used on his R/S35. He doesn't say where he got it that I can see...but it looks exactly the same to me. They are $30 plus $7 or $8 for the valve..then whatever shipping is at bike-engines.com. Of course if you need the seat post mount that is another $15-$20....gettin kinda spendy.
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prism
Guest
fuel tanks
I found some very useful-looking tanks (if you're plotting a rack-mount setup) at the following location:
www.cometkartsales.com/store/chassis/cpa/fuel.htm
The smaller aluminum ones look especially likely - good shape, useful volumes, ready mounting, etc.
I found some very useful-looking tanks (if you're plotting a rack-mount setup) at the following location:
www.cometkartsales.com/store/chassis/cpa/fuel.htm
The smaller aluminum ones look especially likely - good shape, useful volumes, ready mounting, etc.
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