Gasket glue on cylinder gasket????

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by go you good thing, Aug 4, 2007.

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  1. Hi all,

    I searched on 'gasket glue' but did not find a reference other than intake and exhaust hence the post.

    I am about to put my cylinder back on the block and was wondering if I should use gasket glue on it?

    The old one is hard to get off but I don't know if it is has glue on it or not??

    Many thanks in advance.

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    try searching for "permatex" or "sealer"'ll get buried, lol

    anyway, it's an easy answer...

    when it's time to replace the cylinder gasket, i clean it and apply a coat of high-temp rtv to the bottom of the jug. nothing else. if you have decent gasket material handy, use it along with the sealer. warning: if you don't replace the gasket, give it a dry roll to make sure the piston doesn't slap.

    just askin', but you're aware of the procedure for removing and replacing the cylinder without hurting anything?
  3. Thanks augidog, maybe we need a thesaurus for us worldwide:D crew who ain't up on the US lingo:p

    So you don't put any sealer on the block side at all??

    I recently viewed the ring installation post thank you and was aware their was a pin from working on my dirtbikes but was not aware that the ring ends no the happy times where beveled so will keep an eye on that. The rings in the dirt bikes use a stepped ring end.
  4. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    some rings are stepped, some are beveled, the depth of the pin differs from version to version too, and mix-n-match can be fatal...another fine example of fragmentation at china's end.

    putting a good layer of sealer on the bottom of jug seems to be the cleanest way to get the job done, you'll be using your hands to get the piston-pin and keepers in place, if there's permatex on the block, it will soon be on your hands instead.
  5. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    UPDATE: lately, i've had 2 different cylinder-jobs where the piston lightly hit the bottom of the head if i left the gasket out, so i now have to advocate replacing the gasket...2 layers of cereal box all gooped with blue rtv is working fine for me.
  6. How does that cereal box hold up compared to the gasket material you can get at the auto parts store?
    (I like berry krispies cereal right now-:lol:)

    And what do you use for the top gasket material or do you buy one for that?
    (I'm assuming the top gasket is the standard aluminum type)
  7. gauge

    gauge Guest

    rtv copper is the stuff i use and it says something like do not use for headgaskets cause i had the same idea
  8. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    the firm cardboard holds up very well for the base gasket...i personally use no sealant on the headgasket ever, and have never had the need to replace one, they hold up real well. if you've damaged yours and cant get a replacement, i guess you could try a heavier piece of aluminum. i hope i don't ever have to make a head gasket.
  9. Yeah the head gasket has to be a soft metal to take the abuse and still seal but I think I could cut one out if I really had to.
    It would only have to cut the five holes but what exact material would it be, oh well I'll worry about that when it comes up.
  10. Stryker

    Stryker Guest

    did you put gasket sealer on both side of the gasket? I am preping my engine now and wasnt sure, same question for the head gasket.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 23, 2007
  11. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    Use the Red RTV, Or Copper, both the same , just temperature difference. Use it along with the gaskets to make a nice seal. I use it and no Leaks Yet. I use that stuff working on Diesel Pulling ( john Deere 6030) 619ci tractor engines. Lots of compresion their ,and no problems. Even if your gaskets are not in the best of shape This stuff will fill in the ereas where it needs to.
  12. I like to avoid rtv because its not very fuel resistant. Permatex,yamabond,hondabond (same thing) non hardening fuel proof sealant is great for small engines however. I use felpro gasket material, I guess they call it imbeded fiber material or something of that sort. Its basically an asbestos gasket replacement, no sealant needed in most cases. Take note of the base gasket (between the cylinder and the engine case) thickness, changes in gasket thickness change port timing and alter compression. This can be good or bad. Too thin of a gasket will increase compression but the piston won't fully uncover the ports so power may be lost. You may also run a risk of the piston hitting the head or spark plug. On the other hand a thick gasket can be used to raise the port timing slightly but it will slightly decrease compression. After seeing the gaskets shipped with some kits I'd recommend making a new set of top end gaskets from decent material. You certainly don't want an air leak robbing you of performance and messing with your jetting.
  13. hill climber

    hill climber Member

    has anyone had an airleak at the case half gasket/ bottom end gasket? so did i get this right? thicker basr gasket to raise port timing and a thiner head gasket to keep the compresion. sound good? hill climber