Gassy Gary

Still my same bike but my first thread is so old and it's come quite a ways since I first put it together, so I wanted to start over with a clean fresh new thread.

Here's my current build, based on a 1997 Gary Fisher Mamba.

vugwv8.jpeg


Here's how she used to look:
1612510337403.png

And here's what started the change:
1612510587143.png
After this happened, one thing led to another, and, well...here she is.

PARTS LIST:

Engine
-66cc China Girl
--No-name billet head
--No-name MZ65 replica
--DIO reed valve
--19mm OKO carburetor (GENUINE, not the all-too-common Chinese knockoffs)
--Windowed piston
--Sick Bike Parts shift kit
--Jaguar CDI (on its way)

Front end
-Monark Type II front fork and headset
-Shimano HB-M475 front disc hub (on its way)
-TRP HY/RD hydromechanic front disc brake w/ 160mm rotor (have it, not mounted yet since my new front hub isn't here yet)
-Sunrace multi-angle quill stem
-Dimension cruiser bar
-Sick Bike Parts throttle
-Dual pull brake handle
-Shimano Tourney shifter (on stem)
-Genuine Honda PA50 grips (thought it would be a neat touch; I've owned 2 Accords, a Civic, and a CR-V, which should tell you where my loyalties lie)

Rear end
-Shimano 7-speed cassette and derailleur (may not be long for this world)
-Shimano center-pull rim brake (same as above)
-Rock Bros cargo rack
-Cloud9 cruiser saddle
-No-name rear mount kickstand

TO DO:

To get it running
-Make cables; the new bars are a lot taller and further out than the factory flat bars, and the NT throttle cable wouldn't fit the OKO. Will be using Jagwire compressionless housing for most everything.
-Lace new hub into front wheel...debating whether to attempt it myself or just pay my local bike shop.
-Wire up CDI

Once it's running
-Lights and horn
--I have a whole setup ready to go on (low-beam and high-beam headlights, taillight with brake light, horn, tach, plus handlebar switches for all of it), but I'm trying to figure out how to keep it charged. Ordered a little 12V DC motor to mess around with and see if I can turn it into a usable dynamo, but may just wire everything up as total-loss in the meantime.
-Sturmey Archer rear hub
--The 7-speed isn't really doing it for me; half the gears are useless because the ratios are so close together, and I've been left stranded a number of times after a goofy shift made the chain come off and tie itself in knots (if I was lucky) or just snap a link (if I wasn't). With an IGH, I could have a more usable ratio spread, even if I have fewer gears, and I'd be able to run a stouter chain (and not have to worry about it ever falling off).
--Related to this, the rear rim brake doesn't exactly fill me with confidence either. As long as I'm replacing the hub, I may as well kill two birds with one stone by getting one with some form of hub brake. My frame doesn't have any mounts for a disc brake caliper, but Sturmey makes a 3-speed with a 90mm drum brake (model XL-RD3), which should be more than adequate, based on the research I've been doing.
--I also ordered this really awesome stick shifter.
-New tank, very possibly this one.
 
I got that mini-gen kit from eBay you always link, and an 8Ah sealed lead-acid battery. Plan is to get a locking trunk for the battery, but they're all so damn expensive.
You probably mentioned that I forgot,
I've never used one of those Mini Gen kits, Let us know how it all works out for ya.
I'm curious if it can handle all the lights and 1.5A horn.
Ya gotta make as much power as being used or your battery will never stay charged.
It would be Idea to have the light's on all the time even in the daytime just like a M/C
 
Last edited:
You probably mentioned that I forgot,
I've never used one of those Mini Gen kits, Let us know how it all works out for ya.
I'm curious if it can handle all the lights and 1.5ah horn.
Ya gotta make as much power as being used or your battery will never stay charged.
It would be Idea to have the light's on all the time even in the daytime just like a M/C
For my two headlights, one is a 60 degree beam and the other is a 30 degree beam. The 60 degree will act as low-beam; I haven't decided if I'll have both on or just the 30 degree on for high-beam. Also, each of my four corner lights has low and high; the lows will come on with the headlight. The charger claims it can supply 10 to 12 watts at speed, which means a worst-case current budget of about 800 milliamps for steady-state charging (power = current * voltage, so power / voltage = current; 10 watts / 12 volts = 0.83333... amps). I need a new fuse for my ammeter, but based on what the boxes say that my lights came in, I should be right on, if not slightly under. Using the horn or turn signals shouldn't be a big deal, since it'll only be for short bursts and it'll go back to charging once it drops back to steady-state load. The lights will be on a switch, so I'll be able to keep them off and conserve electrical power when I'm putting around town, but for longer excursions, I'll turn them on for safety.

But if it turns out it draws too much to charge even with just the lights and I need to put my bike on the battery tender every couple days, I don't mind. And if the mini-gen turns out to be no good, I may just ditch it all together and run everything total-loss.
 
For my two headlights, one is a 60 degree beam and the other is a 30 degree beam. The 60 degree will act as low-beam; I haven't decided if I'll have both on or just the 30 degree on for high-beam. Also, each of my four corner lights has low and high; the lows will come on with the headlight. The charger claims it can supply 10 to 12 watts at speed, which means a worst-case current budget of about 800 milliamps for steady-state charging (power = current * voltage, so power / voltage = current; 10 watts / 12 volts = 0.83333... amps). I need a new fuse for my ammeter, but based on what the boxes say that my lights came in, I should be right on, if not slightly under. Using the horn or turn signals shouldn't be a big deal, since it'll only be for short bursts and it'll go back to charging once it drops back to steady-state load. The lights will be on a switch, so I'll be able to keep them off and conserve electrical power when I'm putting around town, but for longer excursions, I'll turn them on for safety.

But if it turns out it draws too much to charge even with just the lights and I need to put my bike on the battery tender every couple days, I don't mind. And if the mini-gen turns out to be no good, I may just ditch it all together and run everything total-loss.
No it won't be a total loss you can use rechargeable LIon Batteries Just charge em up while you sleep.
 
Back
Top