Gc160 chopper bike and 79cc friction drive

[Phillybound313]

sorry about the double post. I had to do something, and thought i lost the original post lol

 

[Phillybound313]

LOL
View attachment 85851
Your 10:1 ratio sounds about right. The rear of CVT is like the spring loaded one in this picture, expands and opens up under pressure along with the front as it contracts. You have to watch the CVT you get i here some have a belt with flat side on one side, and a taper on other side........Curt

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[Phillybound313]

Thanks for the reply.
I did see the one sided taper in pictures of cvt's. Im assuming the driver has one side, and the driven has the opposite? That could pose a problem. Im woundering if i could grind one side of the belt about a 1/4 of an inch to create a flat spot to ride on the flat portion of the cvt pulley side.
Am i understanding the driver of a cvt correctly? Does it increase/ decrease diameter on its own, or does the driven pulley do that, and the driver increases/ decreases from input of the driven pulley?

 

[Phillybound313]

It’s cool that you daily drive your builds. I’d like to do the same once I get a more reliable one put together. I have a little 49cc electric start motor I have plans for just want a bike that probably won’t work (without mounting bracket mods). I like it because it has 3 inch tires and dual discs. I’m on the other side of pa. My current job is about 10 miles away so 20 miles a day. 16 mpg is pretty bad compared to what a bike with a motor can do, my daily is an suv. Hopefully you can get the right ratios for the Honda bike.

10 miles isnt bad. I can almost make it to the el in the same amount of time as a car ( staying in bike lane, and going through red lights when its safe). Im about 3.5-4 miles from the el. Ive ridden miles and miles with no problem doing uber eats on the side in north, south, and center city. With the stock gas tank, i get about 25 miles on a fill (80 cents). Guessing close to 100mpg. The smaller motor would probably do even better.
I welded a mechanical disc brake as well. Stops very well. You probably have an even better brake on that.
Cant hurt to have a reserve tank either. Im using a stainless thermos that holds another 1/4 gallon or so (another 25 miles).
I say go for it. If need be you may only need a custom motor mount welded bracket, everything else just bolts up. I would weld you one if you could send me the bolt pattern. Take a piece of paper, put it on bottom of motor, and scibble with the side of a #2 pencil till the bolt holes show on the paper.

 

[Phillybound313]

Btw, ive got an suv myself (ford escape) and havent driven in a year lol

 

[curtisfox]

Almost sure you are right, think there is weights inside the that do the work. Best would make the pulley to match the belt, instead of grinding the belt..........Curt

 

[Will'smotobikes19]

I have a belt drive kit I bought used it’s the golden eagle bike engines kit. I think I just need the main support bracket to be longer and a less wide tire. Believe it or not they sell the support bracket for $60. It appears to just be 1/4 inch steel with a few bends in it and a few holes. It’s a basic U shape. It’s letter C in the diagram. They sell kits with a small Honda for 700 bucks. https://www.bikeengines.com/shop/mount-kit-only-without-the-engine-36-spoke-2/ as for gearing the best thing to do is try a certain size pulley/sprocket and test it by riding around. Or if you like math you could do a bunch of calculations lol. I have a problem where I have too many ideas and not enough tools/money. I have realized you could fabricate something like the GEBE kit for half if not less, the cost. It is a made in the US kit but the sheave is gray plastic.

 

[Phillybound313]

For $60 i dont think it would be worth making compared to something that bolts right on. Id have to see it. Do you have any pictures of it?
Just got the 79cc running after drilling the jet from #80 to#100. I ended up drilling too big, so i took off the air filter. It ran for about 30 seconds and stalled. I realized that the intake rocker arm popped sideways off the valve stem. The problem was the little support plate that keeps the pushrods guided was in an area that was too wide because of the rocker ratio change.
So i used the old greyhound pushrods which were much fatter and a little shorter.
Took it for a spin and it runs much smoother and revs much quicker and feels like a gained close to 1000 rpms with the stiffer springs.
Now i believe im loosing traction on the drive spindle. Also i feel like the 2 7/8 od spindle is too small. Im not getting traction down low, and up high im running out of rpm and the bike wont gain anymore speed.
I may try the 3" exhaust coupling which is close to 3 1/4 od, along with jb weld and sand for more friction. Hoping it will still pull up hills

 

[Will'smotobikes19]

 

[Phillybound313]

View attachment 85852

If you're set on that setup, id weld it for you for free, just pay for shipping. I dont know what that would cost. Im in NE philly