GEBE And Friction Drive Combination

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by 5-7HEAVEN, May 8, 2010.

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  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I've been trying to recycle my friction drive kits into other forms of driving the rear (or front) wheel. One of my projects involves converting my FRONT wheel friction drive into chain drive, which is in another thread. I'm in the planning process of converting my REAR wheel friction drive into chain drive. I have a Staton freewheel hub and was gonna use this sprocket:

    HOWEVER, I got to thinking that the GEBE drive ring, belt and sprocket MIGHT be able to be retrofitted onto the BMP or Staton friction drive kits!:idea:

    Has anyone done this before?

    Probably not?
    Last edited by a moderator: May 8, 2010

  2. Zev0

    Zev0 Member

    I have a Staton Friction Drive which I converted to the GEBE system. Just have to reverse the engine. I also had to get a different fuel tank, Staton's would not not me connect flush to the mounting bracket.
  3. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    When I say converting from friction drive to GEBE, I mean keeping the friction drive housing bolted onto the bike, then adding GEBE parts onto the friction drive housing, such as the drive hub, pulley and belt.

    Is that what you did?

    Does anyone know what the inside diameter of the GEBE engine drive pulley is? Is it slipped and keyed onto the shaft or threaded onto the shaft?
  4. Zev0

    Zev0 Member

    No, sorry for the misunderstanding. I removed the friction drive assy entirely.
  5. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    No probs, Zev0.

    Do you know the drive pulley's ID?

    The belt will probably need to be a shorter one, though. If I DO get it to work, it'll be a REAL pain to replace it. Engine, clutch drum and axle will need to be pulled to R&R the belt.:detective:
  6. Tanaka40

    Tanaka40 Member

    The drive "pulleys" are broached to fit on the squarish shaft an attached with a screw through the middle of the shaft. The drive ring on the wheel is of course a hi-tech plastic polymer that fits the wheel by inserting the spokes in the slots. Take a look at the website an you can see some pics and go to the reveiw sections to see customer bikes and pics on how they installed their system. The belt is a GATES item but my numbers are too worn to read them. The whole system minus the engine is only 350 plus a few extra bucks for shipping since you are in HI. (BTW my bike is not broke in yet and I still can get to 30 mph with the "standard" drive pulley.
  7. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Thanks for information, Tanaka.

    Is it possible to bore out the drive pulley to slip onto a 1/2" jack shaft?

    I was seriously considering buying a GEBE kit, minus engine for $350. However, if my prototype works without having to have something custom-ordered, everything should cost about $110, less if with used parts.

    Do you know the pitch of the belt and pulleys? I'm sure the GEBE belt is too long for my use, but a reference # would help find a belt that'd work for me.

    Do you know what the outside diameter of the flange on the pulley is? I need it to be less than 1.375". That way, I can have the drive pulley welded onto the shaft, if necessary. Also, the assembled jackshaft can be slipped through the friction drive housing's bearing holes.
  8. Tanaka40

    Tanaka40 Member

  9. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Hopefully a machine shop would be able to bore the heat-treated pulley to 1/2" ID.If not, there must be someone on ebay with the right pulley size for $10.:whistling:

    Last resort is to have the pulley custom made.

    Then there's the task of finding the correct size belt.:detective:
  10. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    hi 5-7,

    check out this link it has all the pulleys and belts you should ever need. I purchased a 15 tooth gear for my gebe but never ran them.

    pulleys / metal timing pulleys.

    Denonator Tuning put me onto this site when he was customizing his setup in search of the perfect setup....

    You should be able to find what your your looking for in the right price range.
    Last edited: May 12, 2010
  11. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Excellent link, vegas!

    I found that $10 pulley, ANNND an $11 belt!

    That's a $29 savings.

    I ordered a GEBE drive ring tonight.

    So my prototype might cost me about $85. That's freaking awesome! :detective:

    vegas, can you tell me which 15t pulley you bought on that side? What size bore diameter?
    Last edited by a moderator: May 13, 2010
  12. Tanaka40

    Tanaka40 Member

    Remember that GEBE uses a HTD style of pulley and not XL.
  13. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    "you want 5mm pitch HTD X 9MM wide belt applications.

    i'm going to use the full alum. piece with hub and tap it just like i did the poly one. i considered the "fairlock" but i don't think you could count on that alone and if you thread it anyway the lock is just redundant".

    quoted from a private message DT had sent me about 2 years ago. I think DT even rang the plastic ones for awhile because they were cheap and perfect for R&Development.

    Just remember to turn the buying browser to mms on the sdpi website. I will have a look in the garage tomorrow, i think i came across that cog the other day cleaning up my gear and will send a pic just to show you which you it is.

    when you fill out the brackets at the top of the columns it narrows your choices down to the drive gears available.

    start by turning to mm.
    set pitch to 5mm
    No. of groves (used 15 caused we wanted more speed) 13 is standard on GEBE
    2 flanges with hub

    and that should do it for you, will take pic tomorrow.
    Last edited: May 13, 2010
  14. Tanaka40

    Tanaka40 Member

    ....and don't forget the idler bearing that pinches the belt near the top small pulley.
  15. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    vegas, thanks for that very important tip!

    tanaka, is that idler bearing a belt tensioner? I was gonna use adjustable rear support struts to tighten the belt. These are all-thread with locknuts, instead of BMP/Staton aluminum flat struts.
  16. Tanaka40

    Tanaka40 Member

    Idler Bearing

    The idler bearing is the most important part of the system to keep the proper tension on the belt. Look closely at the GEBE system and you can see the idler on the slack side of the belt.
  17. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    hi 5-7,

    here,s pictures as promised, the gear on the left is the GEBE 14 tooth, the right the 15 tooth bought from spd-si. I never even tried the 14 tooth as i was able to do 34 mph on the 13 nut and on the bike back then, it was and improved coming sometime in the next century i hope !!!!!





    Biggest difference is that the outsourced part has to be threaded to work with the gebe setup.... No biggie....

    this is a good post about the workings of the tension belt pulley, and give you good direction in putting one together for yourself

    Best wishes VP...
    Last edited: May 13, 2010
  18. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Thanks for pics, links and suggestions, vegas and tanaka.

    I've located a few appropriately sized pulleys, but their bore diameter needs to be increased to 1/2". Unsure if hub diameter can support a larger bore.

    I'll first try to adjust the rear supports to regulate belt tension. If that doesn't do the trick, a belt tensioner will be fabbed.

    FWIW, GEBE uses their tensioner instead of an adjustable engine mount.
  19. Tanaka40

    Tanaka40 Member

    Well, the tensioner keeps the belt at the proper tension just like a chain. If the proper tension is not maintained, the belt will fail !!:cool:
  20. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    The struts' leverage SHOULD apply a lot of pressure on the pulleys' contact surfaces. Time will tell if it'll work.

    I have a used Staton hub w/12g spokes and HD rim. That should be strong enough to transmit power.

    My first test engine will be a 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine. It's been very dependable, except for a chattering clutch ever since new.

    Maybe I'll also need a pair of struts at the friction housing's pivot points. That should be easy enough to fab, using extra BMP aluminum struts and coaster brake lever clamps to secure the struts to the frame stays.:detective:
    Last edited by a moderator: May 16, 2010