GEBE And Friction Drive Combination

5

5-7HEAVEN

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I've been trying to recycle my friction drive kits into other forms of driving the rear (or front) wheel. One of my projects involves converting my FRONT wheel friction drive into chain drive, which is in another thread. I'm in the planning process of converting my REAR wheel friction drive into chain drive. I have a Staton freewheel hub and was gonna use this sprocket:

http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3571


HOWEVER, I got to thinking that the GEBE drive ring, belt and sprocket MIGHT be able to be retrofitted onto the BMP or Staton friction drive kits!:unsure:

Has anyone done this before?

Probably not?
 
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I have a Staton Friction Drive which I converted to the GEBE system. Just have to reverse the engine. I also had to get a different fuel tank, Staton's would not not me connect flush to the mounting bracket.
 
When I say converting from friction drive to GEBE, I mean keeping the friction drive housing bolted onto the bike, then adding GEBE parts onto the friction drive housing, such as the drive hub, pulley and belt.

Is that what you did?

Does anyone know what the inside diameter of the GEBE engine drive pulley is? Is it slipped and keyed onto the shaft or threaded onto the shaft?
 
No probs, Zev0.

Do you know the drive pulley's ID?

The belt will probably need to be a shorter one, though. If I DO get it to work, it'll be a REAL pain to replace it. Engine, clutch drum and axle will need to be pulled to R&R the belt.:geek:
 
The drive "pulleys" are broached to fit on the squarish shaft an attached with a screw through the middle of the shaft. The drive ring on the wheel is of course a hi-tech plastic polymer that fits the wheel by inserting the spokes in the slots. Take a look at the website an you can see some pics and go to the reveiw sections to see customer bikes and pics on how they installed their system. The belt is a GATES item but my numbers are too worn to read them. The whole system minus the engine is only 350 plus a few extra bucks for shipping since you are in HI. (BTW my bike is not broke in yet and I still can get to 30 mph with the "standard" drive pulley.
 
Thanks for information, Tanaka.

Is it possible to bore out the drive pulley to slip onto a 1/2" jack shaft?

I was seriously considering buying a GEBE kit, minus engine for $350. However, if my prototype works without having to have something custom-ordered, everything should cost about $110, less if with used parts.

Do you know the pitch of the belt and pulleys? I'm sure the GEBE belt is too long for my use, but a reference # would help find a belt that'd work for me.

Do you know what the outside diameter of the flange on the pulley is? I need it to be less than 1.375". That way, I can have the drive pulley welded onto the shaft, if necessary. Also, the assembled jackshaft can be slipped through the friction drive housing's bearing holes.
 
Thanks for information, Tanaka.

Is it possible to bore out the drive pulley to slip onto a 1/2" jack shaft?

QUOTE]

Well if you can bore through hardend steel. It would be much easier to have the shaft the same size as the drive pulley. BTW the drive pully is attached to the centrifical clutch drum via a small shaft.
 
Hopefully a machine shop would be able to bore the heat-treated pulley to 1/2" ID.If not, there must be someone on ebay with the right pulley size for $10.:whistle:

Last resort is to have the pulley custom made.

Then there's the task of finding the correct size belt.:geek:
 
hi 5-7,

check out this link it has all the pulleys and belts you should ever need. I purchased a 15 tooth gear for my gebe but never ran them.

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

pulleys / metal timing pulleys.

Denonator Tuning put me onto this site when he was customizing his setup in search of the perfect setup....

You should be able to find what your your looking for in the right price range.
 
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