GEBE Dooz and Not Dooz - Reveal Your Trix Bike-Wyz!!!!

Talked to that customer mentioned above, he said he learned the trick to getting them started in two or three pulls.

However he wanted 2 mufflers, so I called and talked to Dennis.

Mufflers are now available straight from the manufacturer-
1 800 4JETPRO, ask for Dino.

Apparantly JetPro is in California, and those small aftermarket items are getting too expensive to ship, for middlemen to carry them and reship one/two at a time.

Makes cents to me.

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The two tricks to muffler installation are to toss that screen/spark arrestor mentioned above, and buying some of that "welder in a tube" type stuff, the kind that sets in 24 hours.

The only modification is a 35 cent machine bolt, 1/2" longer than the one holding on the red cover, where the brace attaches to.
 
choosing a bike/sprocket

This is more directed at GEBE prospects, and experienced riders will understand readily what I'm trying to say about choosing the right bike for mounting an engine.

When you are riding up a hill, (and I've been timed bottoming out the one below my driveway at 45+ mph), as you climb the grade using a 7 speed (or any variation thereof 10/14/21speeds etc.) when you slow to approx. 25-27 mph your pedals can "catch up" to the engine, your legs can easily pump (no sweating or exertion) and normally you start gaining speed before reaching the top.

However, if you choose a single speed/coaster brake model, you are going to wait a lot longer to "catch up", slowing to maybe 15 mph before you can help.

Plus, coaster brakes take longer to stop than hand brakes.

Sam's Rant warns you away from 3 speed internal hubs, and the bike I just built for a lady 70 miles south won't be in as hilly a terrain as around Rough Edge.

She is going to use it for exercise, and the rev is so low (maybe 12 mph?) that the engine is super quiet, but she won't be able to exercise at 20 mph like she could have with a 7 geared sprocket.
 
Starr was wondering why GEBE doesn't stock axles....

They don't need to because J & B Importers supplies MOST bikeshops, I think they have 15 US warehouses, parts usually arrive the next day.

And it really benefits everyone if bike/bikeparts issues are handled with your local shop, even if like mine, "local" is 30 miles away.

Since the outset of MB.com, 12 gauge rear wheels have been recommended, but GEBE's USMade/Swiss strung/perfectly mounted spokerings is the "other" choice, has better bearings, weighs less, doesn't rust.

Wheel Master (REAR) item number 6459 is for 7 speed cassettes. It takes a special socket to loosen a cassette, so if you take your old wheel with you, the bike guy MIGHT switch it in seconds...Mine run around $35.

When I put a rear wheel on, with punctureproof tube, liner, on a steel wheel, it weighs over 9 pounds.

GEBE's with NO beefing up on the tire/tube weighs 4 or 5 pounds. But I'll race em any day!!!

In my opinion, bike engine companies have to concentrate on THAT aspect, and bike suppliers deal with anything that pertains to parts like axles. A bike warranty is void the minute you modify it for an engine, and liability (engines AND ridership) will keep the big boys like WAL-MART out of the business.

The only way to fully understand the future is to do it yourself, and I came in knowing nothing about either engines OR bikes, screwed up many a derailleur by unscrewing the wrong direction.

Having a local bike shop helps, no matter how the Lycra crowd feels about us.

If a prospective GEBE customer wants a "no hassles" bike at a reasonable price, choose the SUN Retro-7 (speed), with Wheel Master rear end setup. Brand spanking new, spokes true and bearings packed. Jump on and confidently ride hundreds of miles into the sunset.

No drimmel needed for the rear fender. Curved handlebars for comfort, excellent welds, up to a $100 less than Schwinn.

If a prospective GEBE customer wants a "few hassles", choose a bike with tires between 1.5-1.95 inches. There may be frame clearance/spokering issues, axle swaps, but nothing insurmountable.

If the kickstand is on that rear axle, add another 35% to the hassle factor. I only use bikes with centermounted kickstands.

If a prospective GEBE customer wants a "lot of hassles", ignore all the experienced MB.com advise, choose a 3 speed or "quick release anything" and expect the thing to slide on in less than an hour. Ain't gonna happen, and you'll be shopping for another bike pretty quick.
 
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No fat knobbies, and a bit about brakes

Per Starr: beware of MTB tires with too much "knobbiness" on the sidewalls. Deep grabby mountain tires are less comfortable than cruiser tires on the rear anyway.

Per Hive:
Two brakes. Coaster plus or any other sets.

I'm gonna advise 7 speeds is best, and coasters alone don't make the best heavy duty commuter set up, there are times when you do a Fred Flintstone/handbraking/sliding into home combo, which can't be had on Granddad's Western Flyer...

Anything over 7speeds is wasting the left handed side on the handlebar space, which could start operating your blinkers and /or speakerless cell phone...
 
And the best use of our time is to ask dumb questions publically,

I guess you noticed I'm just a regular member now like yourselves, so PM's about bikes or problems should be posted out here in the open, maybe we will build a "problem" thread, but I think everything is pretty well covered somewhere.

I'm not in the R/S 35 camp except for tricycles, so the more I see those being the common denominator, I'm glad I'm sticking with the 2 cycles...

Above I mentioned the "no hassles" and "few hassles", and if you measure the cost of a "few", I'm thinking $50 is a fair price for upgrading the axle to the proper width to start out with. It's a pay me now, or pay me later situation.

Only the widest axle will give you a zero hassle experience with a rackmount.

Only avoiding constant removal of the rear wheel will you avoid crossthreading.

SOMETIMES it isn't the axles threads ruined, but the axle nuthreads, they cost a quarter or a buck, I dunno, I have extras all over the shop floor, toss em like peanut hulls.
 
Throttle

I finally installed a throttle that is much better than the plastic trigger units supplied by GEBE. It is a Sinz brake lever with internal return spring, to assist the tension on the motor throttle assy.

I bought on eBay from www.diamondedgesports.com , in red; they also come in black. It has great adjustment capability and works well with my 112 inch cable and the Tanaka 3300. Cost was $16. shipped.
 

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This is a "work in progress", still getting the bugs out of it, and only comes into play if you plan on building a lot of bikes, many which will need a little "crimping" to get clearance for the spokering.

I bought a "pipe flaring tool" (the $10 NOT the $20 model).

I ground down the pointed center peice, for more surface area, this being the side which will do the crimping.

I slip it onto the frame tube, close the gap on the other "pronged side" with a blank of metal (the second attempt I wrapped it in black duct tape), then squeeze a crimp a little wider than necessary. Takes about 3-4 pressure points to get a good clearance.

It does only the inside, but needs "cutting down to size" to work best.

Like I said, I'm getting the bugs out of this tool.
 

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I'm gonna advise 7 speeds is best....

Anything over 7speeds is wasting the left handed side on the handlebar space, which could start operating your blinkers and /or speakerless cell phone...

REVISING AND EXTENDING MY REMARKS-

2 days riding the Greygeezer 21 speed has me rethinking my 7 speed advise.

Man that sucka will fly up a hill in 21st gear, with the Tanaka 33/highway 13 tooth.

I was GAINING SPEED on some pretty steep grades, or at least staying in the upper 20's mph.
 

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Latest Tweek - Rear Light

Little Trek rear lamp, attached to 90-degree extender (common item in bike shops) and attached to the GEBE cover wing-nut fastener.
 

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straps, L brackets and zipties emphasis

Pic one is what we are talking about. Check the 4 holes against the engine mount bolt 100% of them I have worked with, on the new, heavier strap needed a slight reaming with a bit. The L bracket was "supposed to be" an elegant solution to attaching the strap to a fender hanging brace.

But Pic 2 is an old install on a drilled/tapped hole in an Avalon frame, bent to fit.

Pic 3/4 is yesterday, getting the Avalon framemounted, up and running. Locktite blue is advised on a framemounted strap install, but I feel secure just using fingernail polish.

Pic 5 is the Greygeezer, the hole is already there, so L bracket, fingernail polish and whoola.

I put the L bracket/strap on first, let it point in the air until the enginemount is put on, when I push the strap down and fit it onto the best fit REbored hole.

NOTE- I don't sell the Avalon, the cr*ppy brakes are a selling point for better Sun Cruisers. I use it as a demo bike and new engine break-in bike.

I also threw away every clear zip tie I had, only use Myron's (Heaven 5 7) advised black nowadays.

Always open to new and better ideas.
 

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