GEBE Dooz and Not Dooz - Reveal Your Trix Bike-Wyz!!!!

[BTB Wild]

Apprehensive about motorizing my GT i-Drive 3.0 I looked at those Avalon bikes. ( $69 at Wal-mart) Despite the apparent " cheapness" I saw no adjustment for the front fork shock absorbers. Too spongy for my tastes and an accident waiting to happen IMO. How does the Avalon handle motorized?

 

[bamabikeguy]

BTB: Heres my Avalon reply, hope others chip in, it always was a popular "first bike" pick.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?p=78490#post78490

 

[Hive]

Quiet FAct to Note Well (NB)

Noted elsewhere here but forgot credit.

Two-cycle engines like high revs (speed); four-cycles can live with slower speeds.

Good to know when buying power plant!

 

[Hive]

Engine Safety Strap

Dual use engine strap adds to safety but doubles as bag support. No need for plastic ties, etc. Easy to make, aluminum strips avail at most hardware/big-box stores.

 

[Hive]

More Dooz As More Ideas/Experience Surfaces

Drive ring security might be helped with this link. Begin with Roy Carpenter's comments and on ...

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=4481&page=7

Kill button can be happy under seat on seat post.

The extra long axle (8.5 to 9 inches) makes it easy to bolt engine separately to already fastened rear wheel and to remove engine and leave rear wheel running as normal ...

 

[Hive]

GEBE Dooz and Dontz

See also http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=7082&page=3

 

[Hive]

Throttle Cables

More here, scroll down a bit: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=5562&page=2&highlight=Making+throttle+cables

 

[shawnshank]

A great piece of advice. This happened to me. Caught me off guard and scared the **** out of me as I sped off into traffic. I found the biggest zip tie I could and attached it the same way and it not only took some of the pressure off the strap, it provides me with a little security knowing that it won't happen again - it hasn't happened since.

There are basically 3 places to attach the front strap.

1. to the fender brace, which is where I do my bike of choice, the Sun 7 speeds.

2. tap a hole into the bike frame, secure with a very small bolt and loctite the newly threaded hole.

THERE IS NO WORSE FEELING, than to be cruising down the road, and something snap or give or pull away, have that strap "come loose" and the engine slip backwards, pulling the throttle to full blast.

For insurance, add a zip tie somehow, somewhere, to be a backup for the strap.

Oh, the third way to attach the strap probably is the one where no zip tie is necessary. You ream out the hole at one end of the strap, twist it 90 degrees, and attach it to the seat post, where that bolt is a bit larger than the hole.

 

[Hive]

Vertical Engine GEBE Rack Mount

The topic has been discussed elsewhere, but if the engine is vertical or as close to seat as possible (the mount bar can be trimmed or side bars used) the center of gravity will remain close to rider.

If the engine is too far aft, it can present problems. For example, on a fast turn or as speed, it may sent the fork into vibes or create a dangerous wobble because it is outboard and so on.

Keeping you and engine close does improve handling or at least keep it as close to what it should be on bike without the added motor weight.'

Crank Forward bikes are really the best all around geometry, IMO, for biking in general and for a motored bike. And much better when engine is just behind rider, as noted in pics.

These are the three motored GEBE bikes I have assembles and the CF is by far the best. The engine could be moved an inch or two closer, but I have not done so as contact with the seat numbs my butt and limits seat adjustment, if too high.

 

[Hive]

Raleigh Gruv II and Rans CF Pics

Here are pics of the two CFs or crank forwards. Fuji made a bike model Saratoga, which I forgot to add. There are other makers who tried to market the CF which, for some reason, does not appeal to traditional bike ideal, which is silly.

BTW, you can guesstimate seat height from ground. Rear wheel is 26, engine mount from axle is how many standard inches...there you have it.

Look around, they can be had very cheap. Just be sure the rear wheel has 36 spokes and the drive ring-to-fork space is wide enough...

Point is, if you look closely, you can visualize engine placement, close to seat, and the idea that you get full power from legs but still can put both feet comfortably flat on ground.

I do not know if the spendy Rans Dynamik ($700 used) can take the hammering of motoring and have not tried it. It is much lighter than the Raleigh and the Fuji.

If you decide the CF is for you, add a shock fork to ease the pain at speed.

The fork on the Gruv wobbles during turns or at speed when zigging a bit, but I know it and am careful.

I acquired a shock fork from Vegaspaddy here and was smart move and grateful he was selling when I needed fork. That was good investment for the Rans, as it had hard front fork and the ride is much smoother, and will be so if I add engine...