GEBE: First install, first ride, loves and hates

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by BTB Wild, Oct 12, 2007.

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  1. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest

    First the stuff I hated:
    1) GEBE wheel did not accept my gear cassette. The cheapie SCHWINN had a "freewheel" and it is a 18 speed ( rear cassette 6 gears) Had to purchase a 7 gear cassette and install. Don't know how to adjust components to accept new gear so I'll have to take it to the shop. This cost me a whole day.:-x It would have been easier to install the drive ring to my existing wheel. ( cheaper anyway) Or at least mention this in the instructions somewhere.
    2) Chasing that **** little black threaded ball down the street not once...but 2 times!:-x I'm going to screw something else on there that won't roll away. Like a beer tap handle or something.
    3) Throttle cable placement is touchy touchy touchy sensitive:shock:
    4) Dropping the rear axle I don't know how many times, and walking a mile or so in an effort to center the belt on the gear. It's **** good but it ain't perfect.:confused:
    5) taking 3+ days to install something that should have taken 1-2 hours. :oops:
    6) don't quite have a feel for the clutch yet......still gotta work on the hills.
    I'm working harder than I have to perhaps in an effort to spare the clutch.
    Probably should try trail gear?

    Here's what I like:
    1) a motor on anything is always better than anything without a motor.
    2) I like the clip-on throttle cable. You can move it around to reduce fatigue etc.
    3) Engine is not too loud. Started in 2 pulls. I should say the volume Db drops off rapidly as you move away from the bike. 1/2 to full throttle is actually quieter than the idle. I still intend to quiet er down some. ( silicone tubing)
    4) Free's a's a moped.....and while shooting down a long straight's a motorcycle. It's a blast. :smile:
    5) I was able to take a simple kit and complicate the heck out of the install. Great since I like to tinker........and it still works!
    6) I have something I have never seen in my area. My brother says it's because we don't live in Tokyo!:rolleyes:

  2. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    congrats on finally riding ! :)
    the rest will work out fine !!!:D
    another motoredbike addict :D
    (we know how you feel :lol:)
  3. Jim H

    Jim H Guest

    The more you ride the more you'll come to know your bike... it takes time to get the total feel and the total tweaks down but when you do, watch out!
  4. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    That little black bouncing threaded ball is the reason I suggested leaving the black cover off for a few days.

    You are the first one I've heard using that "throttle clip", I've always tossed them and used a radiator clamp. Glad to hear it works, I've never figured it out on larger/fatter handlebars.

    Over in the other thread I saw where Vaughn wondered why I suggested leaving the kill switch off till later.

    Thurs. Dave called, one of the Honda engines on the tricycles "lost compression", according to the message on the machine. When I talked to him hours later, I said "check the kill switch", and whoola, a short was found.

    The kill switch mount is oval, not round, so you have to "form" it around the handlebar or yoke. I put a piece of electrical tape behind the red button, to double protect against the wire ever touching metal.

    You have to scrape some paint or acrylic off the spot where the screw goes in, and have to really tug it sometimes to get the screw and threads lined up, it bends if you aren't careful, the screw hits at an angle, looks ugly.

    I just think it is a "final detail", should not get in the way of the first few "test rides". If you unattach it on the engine side too many times, the blue connector might break off, becoming another hassle like the "bouncing down the street black ball".

    I started using a foot long piece of black conduit to lay the throttle wire and kill switch wire into, to give it a neat look behind the seat.

    Finally, the rewards of "frame-mounting", which would take an hour or so, pays off in lining up the wheel/belt/ for thought for future builders.
  5. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Oh, and put a very small dab of white lithium grease up at the thumb throttle end, where the wire enters the black cable fitting. A few pumps of the throttle will get that spot lubricated for good.
  6. larymor

    larymor Guest

    Way to go !!
    I like the throttle clip cause I can move it around so my hand doesn't get so tired. My little ball hasn't fell off yet, but as soon as I say that it will fall off LOL !! I am using my original 14g wheel and all is well at 275miles. I zip tied right at the start. I did the same as you yesterday trying to get my belt in the center of the looks great going down to the ring gear but I cant get it centered on the clutch keeps going towards the engine. It doesnt look really snug, but it is against the inside of the gear and I am noticing very slight one spot looks like a few strands of peach fuzz and the side of the belt is showing some white lines all along it in spots 4-8 inches long. I tried moving engine over but it wont budge..loosened bolts too. I also moved the legs up and down...don't know what else to I gave up.
  7. iRide Customs

    iRide Customs Member

    Glad to hear it's moving you down the road...even if it is to chanse the little black ball.

    I wonder if these quality GEBE kits are going to strat replacing the Happy times????
  8. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest

    Let me explain the black ball issue BAMA. As you suggested, I left the cover off for my initial short rides. However, I noticed that the throttle cable was vibrating against the open threads and left an abrasion mark. I slapped the cover and ball on quickly to protect the wires. I would ride for awhile, stop to inspect alignment and other issues by popping the cover.......thus chasing the little black ball down the sloping streets of W PA.
    I have not walked ( align gear) nor ran ( chasing ball) so much since purchasing the GEBE kit. It's been great exercise.:oops:
    I have also disconnected the kill wire several times for various reasons. I pulled the blue piece off. The switch still works but has failed intermittently since. Where do you put the tape to insulate the kill switch? Over the strap on the back and behind the switch? I have not stretched the strap yet. I have the switch zip tied to the seat post for now.
    yes BAMA, I have followed many of your suggestions......yet becoming well versed in Murphy's Law as well.:smile:
  9. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    To clarify, just a small piece of tape to reinforce the black wire cover. Road vibration could eventually cause the wire to cut, which would then ground out to the metal. So you don't tape the whole area, just the spot where the black wire emerges from the kill button housing.
  10. larymor

    larymor Guest

    I didn't do that one. I wrapped the kill button wire from the engine about a quarter way up cause the wire is so flimsy. I gotta do that one too. So far it works good.
  11. Jim H

    Jim H Guest

    I'm using the original thumb throttle that came w/ my setup... for me it's been excellent and the black ball has never threatened to come undone. The ball is locked in place with a counter-nut. Only annoyance is the cover has split twice. I'll fix that w/ more metal and spray the underside w/ a thick coating of bedliner (rubberized) paint. I've had this 40 tanaka for over a year.
  12. Here's what I had to do to get my belt tracking right. The only thing that would work for me was to remove the engine from the mounting "legs", and file the two engine mounting holes out so that they were oblong. Then all I had to do was loosen the engine mounting nuts with a box wrench while mounted, and I could then "turn" the engine to the right or left. At that point, I enjoyed perfect belt tracking. I find myself having to re-adjust every couple weeks....but then again, I ride the heck out of
  13. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest


    I tried everything.......lastly I loosened the engine bolts and tried to rotate the engine back and may have moved ever so slightly I'm not sure. The belt still rides the outside of the gear somewhat but there is no more belt dust on the bracket. I plan to just ride the thing and see what happens to the belt over time. I bought an extra belt just in case. If I experience premature belt wear, I'll try your idea. Thanks.
  14. larymor

    larymor Guest

    Yeah....I'm just gonna ride and see how the belt fares, then make a decision on what to do...Roys ream em out, or I can try sams adjustment to the frame mine is frame mounted.
  15. Yeah...any way that you are able to rotate the engine slightly one direction, or the other, and lock it in the position when the belt is tracking chiefly in the center of the drive gear will work. I found it wierd that GEBE recommended loosening the engine mount bolts to rotate the engine, when the holes are barely big enough for the mounting studs to go through them, and the engine can't be rotated, unless you file the holes out, and elongate them. Then adjustment is a snap. ;-) By the way...I'm sure that it also impedes performance with the belt not tracking properly. That will cost you a mph or two.
  16. larymor

    larymor Guest

    Yeah ! I read that too..about loosening the engine bolts and it will move. Not unless you ream em out first...I was tapping mine with a rubber mallet..then got to thinkin...when I put it on there was no slack in those gives? EH??
  17. BTB Wild

    BTB Wild Guest


    While I agree there was no play on those bolts, I got a very slight rotation by loosening the nuts and giving the engine a good twist. I was able to align the square part of the engine bracket parallel to the tire. I'd say maybe a movement of 1-2mm or so. I believe this small movement helped. Originally I was getting belt dust building up on the bracket, the problem has not reoccured. Then again.......maybe I chewed the rubber off and I'm cutting into the strands now. :oops:
    A visual inspection of the belt reveals some white line on the edge.......but it looks just like the new belt I received from GEBE. hey......are these new belts sealed in plastic or did they send me a used belt? ( wrapped with a rubber a padded envelope) :confused:
  18. Jim H

    Jim H Guest

    I got slight movement on the motor too, just a tad but it proved helpful in allignment coupled with a washer behind the drive gear. Mine came in a padded envelope as well... no fear, the belts are brand, spanking new!
  19. BTB the belt you recieved from GEBE look used? My goodness...I hope not, cause I just ordered one as if we have a choice to get them elsewhere. Na..I'm sure it's a new belt. Pssst....I'll let you know if mine comes in a sealed plastic bag or not. ;)
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2007
  20. Hive

    Hive Guest

    Some Different Methods...

    1. Toss the black knob and replace with SS acorn nut.

    2. SS washers can be placed between the gear wheel and inside of engine clutch case (housing) if the belt needs to move away from tire. If opposite - toward tire - washers at axle will adjust.

    Of course, if the belt is not centered, one can also look at the axle to be sure not bent or the drop outs are correctly welded parallel to frame center-line and equidistant from frame center. No end to what may be alignment problem with certain brands.

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