TerraPilot
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- Local time
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- Joined
- Sep 11, 2009
- Messages
- 38
If you can't wipe that smile off your face when you're out riding Your GEBE bike then this will make that smile last about 70 miles longer. LOL
If you know how to drill accurate holes in a piece of aluminum with a center punch and a make a few cuts on a 3/4" aluminum stock then you will love this extra tank. I went on and picked up that cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder from Harbor Freight to cut that aluminum but a hacksaw is quite adequate to make the cuts. That 3/4" by 1/8th inch thick aluminum stock comes in 3 or 4 foot lengths at any hardware store. That and a 2 inch piece of galvanized 3/8th or 1/2" diameter plumbing pipe plus some bolts is about all you'll need to complete the task. The tank comes from Staton in Oklahoma:
http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3262
Its labeled as a 64 ounce tank but I could only get 50 oz. into it. (Thanks for the heads up, Augidog.)
Please view the graphics and pictures attached then read below;
Make 2 of the 10-1/2" pieces from the aluminum stock and then cut the 3 spacing pieces from the remainder. I know.... there will be quite a bit left over. A drill press works best for accurate hole cutting and spacing. If you must use a hand drill make your center punch marks are good and deep and be mindful to prevent your drill bit from moving off or walking off point as you drill. A dull drill bit does not allow accurate holes !!! If your holes end up too far off don't hesitate to make another more accurate piece. You have lots of scrap. Your bolt sizes are as follows;
one ----1/4" by 3-1/4" bolt (if you can't find a 3-1/4", a 3-1/2" will work. I had to cut mine to a 3-1/4". )
one ----1/4" by 1" bolt
one ----1/4" by 1-1/4" bolt
three---1/4" neoprene or nylon filled locknuts (an absolute must, no substitutes ).
Note on Installing the tank;
The mounting bolts and straps are tightened enough to clamp onto the main engine mounting strap and eliminates any need to drill a hole into GEBE's main engine mounting strap. In other words- clamping of the bolts plus the neoprene lock nuts are plenty to hold the tank in place. To attach the tank start by mounting the right 2 bolts nuts spacers and washers over the engine strap first. (Don't completely tighten.) Finish by installing the left-most bolt, spacer, and washers, and nuts. Recheck that tank is where you want it then snug up all 3 lock-nuts.
Configuring the gas lines;
Den at GEBE and Augidog describe the one gas line configuration for any extra tanks quite well.
I much prefer this single gas line configuration as apposed to other methods described elsewhere. It's simpler but yes it does require one to drill a 3/16" drill hole in the top of your existing tank. The black tube from your Staten tank fits this hole perfectly without any fittings. You don't have to push it more than 1/2 inch into your old existing tank. The clear tube in the in the Staton tank is useless. You should be able to finger the inside end of the clear tube out of the tank mouth long enough to plug both ends of this tube with a couple of #10 size nylon screws (ok regular screw will work too). I then coiled the excess outside the tank and secured it with a baggy tie or a zip tie. For some reason I just could not bring myself to cut it. LOL
I've included a tank and flow graphic to simplify the explanations for flow of the gas and which tank to seal.
I hope the graphics of the assemblage and photos save a lot of time too.
I like that this tank is completely out of the way right up next to the old tank resulting in the shortest and simplest fuel connections least strain on any pumping in the engine. As I understand the Sabaru Robins engines appreciate this.
22 ounces in the old tank plus the extra 50 oz come to about 100 mile range. That's based on 180 miles to the Gallon that is.
Don't Wipe that smile off your face but a bug shield might help a little. LOL
If you know how to drill accurate holes in a piece of aluminum with a center punch and a make a few cuts on a 3/4" aluminum stock then you will love this extra tank. I went on and picked up that cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder from Harbor Freight to cut that aluminum but a hacksaw is quite adequate to make the cuts. That 3/4" by 1/8th inch thick aluminum stock comes in 3 or 4 foot lengths at any hardware store. That and a 2 inch piece of galvanized 3/8th or 1/2" diameter plumbing pipe plus some bolts is about all you'll need to complete the task. The tank comes from Staton in Oklahoma:
http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3262
Its labeled as a 64 ounce tank but I could only get 50 oz. into it. (Thanks for the heads up, Augidog.)
Please view the graphics and pictures attached then read below;
Make 2 of the 10-1/2" pieces from the aluminum stock and then cut the 3 spacing pieces from the remainder. I know.... there will be quite a bit left over. A drill press works best for accurate hole cutting and spacing. If you must use a hand drill make your center punch marks are good and deep and be mindful to prevent your drill bit from moving off or walking off point as you drill. A dull drill bit does not allow accurate holes !!! If your holes end up too far off don't hesitate to make another more accurate piece. You have lots of scrap. Your bolt sizes are as follows;
one ----1/4" by 3-1/4" bolt (if you can't find a 3-1/4", a 3-1/2" will work. I had to cut mine to a 3-1/4". )
one ----1/4" by 1" bolt
one ----1/4" by 1-1/4" bolt
three---1/4" neoprene or nylon filled locknuts (an absolute must, no substitutes ).
Note on Installing the tank;
The mounting bolts and straps are tightened enough to clamp onto the main engine mounting strap and eliminates any need to drill a hole into GEBE's main engine mounting strap. In other words- clamping of the bolts plus the neoprene lock nuts are plenty to hold the tank in place. To attach the tank start by mounting the right 2 bolts nuts spacers and washers over the engine strap first. (Don't completely tighten.) Finish by installing the left-most bolt, spacer, and washers, and nuts. Recheck that tank is where you want it then snug up all 3 lock-nuts.
Configuring the gas lines;
Den at GEBE and Augidog describe the one gas line configuration for any extra tanks quite well.
I much prefer this single gas line configuration as apposed to other methods described elsewhere. It's simpler but yes it does require one to drill a 3/16" drill hole in the top of your existing tank. The black tube from your Staten tank fits this hole perfectly without any fittings. You don't have to push it more than 1/2 inch into your old existing tank. The clear tube in the in the Staton tank is useless. You should be able to finger the inside end of the clear tube out of the tank mouth long enough to plug both ends of this tube with a couple of #10 size nylon screws (ok regular screw will work too). I then coiled the excess outside the tank and secured it with a baggy tie or a zip tie. For some reason I just could not bring myself to cut it. LOL
I've included a tank and flow graphic to simplify the explanations for flow of the gas and which tank to seal.
I hope the graphics of the assemblage and photos save a lot of time too.
I like that this tank is completely out of the way right up next to the old tank resulting in the shortest and simplest fuel connections least strain on any pumping in the engine. As I understand the Sabaru Robins engines appreciate this.
22 ounces in the old tank plus the extra 50 oz come to about 100 mile range. That's based on 180 miles to the Gallon that is.
Don't Wipe that smile off your face but a bug shield might help a little. LOL
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