Getting my first Zeda kit soon seeking advice

[bikejock]

Waiting for my first Zeda 80 (69.5cc) 2 stroke kit from Bicycle Engines. Kinda new to 2 stroke motors & wonder what I should do to prep for first ride. Already got a quart of Royal Purple synthetic 2 stroke oil & a mix mesuring container to make ratio mixing easier. What kind of grease & lubes should I use & what parts should I upgrade etc is the advice I'm looking for.

From the looks of it the Zeda 80 does seem better than most of the fleabay junk thats out there & looks like Bicycle Engines or maybe the Zeda company already made improvements to the 2 stroke design like stainless steel engine block bolts ect. But what should I really expect out of a Zeda 2 stroke kit from Bicycle Engines & what should I prepare for?

 

[crassius]

read well on this forum - none of these motors are all that different from others

 

[butre]

zeda motors are good, just a little dab of grease in the clutch side gears is all you need. just be sure not to get any on the clutch mechanism itself.

 

[bikejock]

So I just got the motor & have it mostly put together. Just finished the wiring today. I have to get my rear hub repaired & shorten my chain but after that it should be ready to ride. Also got a flex expansion exhaust with it which looks pretty cool & should help performance & reduce noise some. Took some creativity to get it to fit on my bike. Good thing I have a wide pedal crank which really helped it fit better. The motor fit my bike like a glove! Didn't even need that U bolt adapter that came with it.

The Zeda motor seems decent enough. Like how its put together with stainless steel allen key bolts as opposed to those cheap screws that are often used in other 2 stroke engines. The lack of lock tight & locking nuts has me very concerned & will be getting lock tight for the engine block & transmission case bolts & locking mounting nuts. I mean, Would it have killed them to spend a couple extra bucks on locking nuts for the engine mounts & lock tight on the engine block bolts? Guess that means another trip to the hardware store for me.

 

[crassius]

I never use loctite on anything with these - the nuts and bolts do not vibrate loose - the crappy metal stretches, so you must just keep tightening till they finally stay tight.

One factory has been putting loctite on small bevel gear bolt and it is HARD to work on it at all.

 

[bikejock]

I never use loctite on anything with these - the nuts and bolts do not vibrate loose - the crappy metal stretches, so you must just keep tightening till they finally stay tight.

One factory has been putting loctite on small bevel gear bolt and it is HARD to work on it at all.

I decided to lock tight all the bolts anyway as a precautionary measure. Got the kit mostly finished. Have the motor on the bike, got the wiring done & greased the gears. Just need to get my rear hub fixed & my clutch arm adjusted right & mix some gas. Should be ready to ride after that.

 

[butre]

as long as you don't loctite the head nuts you can loctite the whole thing

 

[bikejock]

as long as you don't loctite the head nuts you can loctite the whole thing

I assume you mean the cylinder head bolts. No I didn't locktite those. Didn't see the need anyway, they seemed pretty secure out of the box. Good thing I chose the pre-instaled cylinder option. They did good work installing it.

Also was curious about the cylinder wall. Should I oil it up before starting the motor for the first time? I heard of people doing this so I was just wondering if it is needed or not.

 

[crassius]

I order motors unassembled so I can oil bottom end bearings, base gasket, and cylinder walls just in case it has been sitting in salt air a while at some port warehouse - when they don't have enough and have to send some assembled motors, I lift the barrel enough to oil them also, but the real reason to look is to check how well the machining of the ports came out and if any flashing or debris might need attention.

Running a new motor on bench right now. I run it about 5 minutes at fast idle with occasional blip of throttle to 1/2 speed, then shut down to cool. Run it about 6 times that way so far and have twice gotten another 1/2 turn or so onto head nuts to get back to correct torque. 8mm motor mounts have taken maybe 1/4 turn each three times.

 

[bikejock]

I order motors unassembled so I can oil bottom end bearings, base gasket, and cylinder walls just in case it has been sitting in salt air a while at some port warehouse - when they don't have enough and have to send some assembled motors, I lift the barrel enough to oil them also, but the real reason to look is to check how well the machining of the ports came out and if any flashing or debris might need attention.

Running a new motor on bench right now. I run it about 5 minutes at fast idle with occasional blip of throttle to 1/2 speed, then shut down to cool. Run it about 6 times that way so far and have twice gotten another 1/2 turn or so onto head nuts to get back to correct torque. 8mm motor mounts have taken maybe 1/4 turn each three times.

My Zeda kit shipped from Bozeman Montana so I'm pretty sure it hasn't been sitting at a port colecting sea air. I'll still pop off the cylinder head to inspect the cylinder walls just to be safe. I'll oil it up if I have to then test run it on a stand to be sure everything is running properly before the first ride.