Getting my first Zeda kit soon seeking advice

So I got the wheel back from my local bike shop yesterday & got it on the bike, shortened my engine chain as much as needed & think I got the tension just right. Wiring seems correct (CDI blue to engine blue & same for black, & kill wire positive spliced to engine/CDI blue, & kill wire negative spliced to engine/CDI black & cant seem to get it to start. I think I got the gas oil mixed right for the brake-in period (8 ounces of oil for the first gallon) & the choke on the carb is off. What could be causing my motor not to start? It sputters a bit then just stops so it seems like it's getting gas. Could this be a wiring issue? Or something else?
 
head tight, spark plug tight, pedaling enough for a dry motor?
 
So I got the wheel back from my local bike shop yesterday & got it on the bike, shortened my engine chain as much as needed & think I got the tension just right. Wiring seems correct (CDI blue to engine blue & same for black, & kill wire positive spliced to engine/CDI blue, & kill wire negative spliced to engine/CDI black & cant seem to get it to start. I think I got the gas oil mixed right for the brake-in period (8 ounces of oil for the first gallon) & the choke on the carb is off. What could be causing my motor not to start? It sputters a bit then just stops so it seems like it's getting gas. Could this be a wiring issue? Or something else?
8 ounces is to heavy on the oil. I know they say 8 in the manual but it is to much. None of the builders here do that. Some of the builders here don't use extra oil at all for breakin. I cover my ass and use 6 ounces for breakin and have never had a problem. So drop to 6 ounces per gallon, clean your plug raise the clip on the needle to the second notch down from the top, put the choke to the half way position, tap the little copper button next to the idle screw 7 or 8 times and watch for gas movement in the line, take off pedaling and let the clutch out. Keep pedaling and work the throttle on and off a little bit. It should kick in. Then shut off the choke and have fun.
 
I always use 16:1 on a new motor - after looking closely at how aggressive the cross-hatch is on cylinder walls, I'll use either two cups or one quart of the 16:1, then go to the 32:1.

I doubt even 10:1 would keep it from firing (though poorly).
 
I always use 16:1 on a new motor - after looking closely at how aggressive the cross-hatch is on cylinder walls, I'll use either two cups or one quart of the 16:1, then go to the 32:1.

I doubt even 10:1 would keep it from firing (though poorly).
I've got an old outboard from 1929 that suggests 8:1 for break in. that's one pint per gallon. if an old outboard can run on 8:1, 10:1 isn't gonna hurt a modern-ish motor
 
I checked everything. Cylinder is fine piston seems OK, Wiring is good, Spark plug looks clean. I ended up cutting the plugs of the CDI & engine & kill button & doing a direct splice so I can have a better CDI/engine connection becauase I don't know why Bicycle-Engines keeps insisting on using wire plugs not made out of the same material the wire is made out of. Seems to just block the connection of the wires. I remember thats why my 4 stroke didn't start the first time. Even with the spliced wires on my 2 stroke it wont start. I'm on the verge of ether giving up on motorized bikes completely or maybe sending my bike to someone who could fix it for me. Just to bad there's nobody in my area that I know of who will work on these engines.
 
read some of the troubleshooting steps, head studs are at right torque or not, spark is seen or not, pedal with choke, then if it pops a few times pedal more with no choke
 
After giving it another go, I finaly got it started for the first time! Drove around a few blocks. Ran great except it stalled when I came to a full stop at the end of the ride. Also noticed an oil leak coming from the cylinder area. Think I might need to tighten my exhaust manifold or cylinder head & adjust my idle screw again. Glad I didn't give up so easily this time.
 
for new motor, idle may need adjustment several times as rings seat - any/all oil leaks should be stopped, as they indicate something too loose
 
Took it out for another ride after tightening the exhaust bolts (turns out that was where the oil leak was coming from) Still stalls when I come to a complete stop though. Will try to troubleshoot it over the weekend.
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