Getting my first Zeda kit soon seeking advice

don't worry too much about the stall until you have some miles on it - it might even be one of the 15 clutch pads a bit large that is dragging until it wears down a bit

you.ve got the hard part done, enjoy and have patience
 
What's a good racing carburetor for these engines? Been thinking of getting a good high performance carburetor for my bike. Looked at a few but what is the one that makes the most difference & is the most dependable? I'm looking to spend $30 to $40 on a high performance carburetor.
 
I've never seen one that was worth anything when on a standard motor - I have a box out back with different kinds and a sign "free take one" for folks that really want to spend a few weeks learning to tune a carb. I like the original NT clone that has the chinese chars on the slide tube, never had to adjust or change jets in one of those.
 
What's a good racing carburetor for these engines? Been thinking of getting a good high performance carburetor for my bike. Looked at a few but what is the one that makes the most difference & is the most dependable? I'm looking to spend $30 to $40 on a high performance carburetor.
none of them are worth getting if you haven't ported your motor and gotten a good expansion chamber first.
 
My rear wheel came apart today. Not bad enough to cause me to crash thank god. Ended up having to walk it back though. Good thing I was only a block or so away from home when it happened. Some of the hub internals seem to be good so at least I can salvage some parts from it.

Now I'm in the market for a new 26 single speed rear wheel. Been thinking of getting one that can fit a disk brake sprocket if such a wheel exists in a single speed so I have a proper reliable rear drive that doesn't mess up spokes or anything. I was also eyeing some options Bicycle-Engines had like the HD rear wheel with the built in sprocket but it is pretty pricey. My dilemma with that wheel is I'm not sure if there is a 36 tooth drive sprocket available for it. What is a good rear wheel that can handle a 2 stroke direct drive?
 
Oh yeah, did we mention ya gotta keep an eye on that back wheel?
The engine puts a lot of torque on the spokes. They need to be aligned and tensioned often.
Also the bearings need to be greased frequently too.
 
Oh yeah, did we mention ya gotta keep an eye on that back wheel?
The engine puts a lot of torque on the spokes. They need to be aligned and tensioned often.
Also the bearings need to be greased frequently too.

I suppose it was also the hub adapter setup I was using. I have the $25 adapter that is 3 parts conected to the hub via hose clamp & I was using metal 1 inch collars to do away with the rag joints & provide some adjustment to the left for the sprocket to allow the chain to line up with the motor. I also tried using locktite on the hub itself as someone on Amazon sugested to prevent the adapter from slipping into
the spokes but I guess it just made the hub more slippery because I used cheap locktite that seemed like a watered down version of the good locktite. So I will be getting a new wheel & a better sprocket adapter or splurge a little on Bicycle-Engines HD rear wheel & find a 36 tooth sprocket that can fit it.
 
Oh yeah, did we mention ya gotta keep an eye on that back wheel?
The engine puts a lot of torque on the spokes. They need to be aligned and tensioned often.
Also the bearings need to be greased frequently too.

Why I went with the grubee HD axle, it uses sealed bearings that can be replaced with automotive bearings when the time arises, it also uses a threaded flange for the sprocket so you aren't mounting directly to the spokes.
 
Why I went with the grubee HD axle, it uses sealed bearings that can be replaced with automotive bearings when the time arises, it also uses a threaded flange for the sprocket so you aren't mounting directly to the spokes.

I was trying to find a dealer that sold those HD hubs but nobody seems to sell the good one. Just cheap knockoffs with a badly
made drum brake built in. Was considering mag wheels or a good rear disk brake wheel & a disk brake mounted sprocket so it takes mounting a sprocket through the spokes out of the equation completely & provides a setup that wont keep slipping like my sprocket adapter was doing. Would need to convert my coaster brake to a V brake & convert my front wheel to accept a disk brake or get another V brake for the front to match the rear.

I would likely have to widen my rear stays from 135mm to 150mm to accept a rear disk brake wheel because they usually have a cassette mount. Would there be a way to remove the cassette mount so I wouldn't need to widen my rear stays or is it 150mm wide even if I removed the cassette mount? Would be nice if I didn't have widen my rear stays to as it is kind of a b**ch from what I'm told & the tool to do it looks expensive. Also bending the rear stays apart could compromise frame strength integrity.
 
Grubee sells a 51mm hd axle as well for use on 135mm frames. You might be able to even run the 61mm hd axle hub on your 135mm frame. I know i had to use spacers to make up the difference on my 150mm frame.
 
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