robe
Well-Known Member
Has a lot to do with ride comfort for me. I have conventional tires and tubes that can easily take 40 psi, I find this too harsh and usually run 30 psi or a bit over.
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Gold E-Krate first project build.
- Thread starter slickdude
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slickdude
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Front Tannus tire arrives next Tuesday. By next week, I should have the rear hub motor kit on order. Depending on finances, I'll also be adding a disc brake to it. 6-bolt pattern and a disc brake adapter for the rear of the cruiser as the archer brake is on the front. In addition, I'll be adding a 7-speed derailleur and chain. Also a rear Tannus tire to help it along. Can't afford any flats! Then will begin wiring up the brakes. Will have to build a custom length cable for the front as the 26" setup is taller than the 20" setup cable they shipped with the hub.
In November will add the iconic custom shifter for the "Gold Krate" project, as well as rear fender and iconic worded chain guard in either black with gold lettering or gold with black lettering. Considering whether to stick with twist or thumb throttle.
In December, the finishing touches and then a compact triangle battery and bag for the center of the frame. I have measured my existing triangle battery from my working stingray and it will fit okay in the Gold Krate frame providing the front of the battery is turned downward. I believe this to be doable. The battery in frame will also add weight about 15 pounds to help prevent wheelies from occurring and stabilize the bike at higher speeds too.
Once I have the rear hub nailed next week with a tire, I'll pull the Krate down from the Park Mount and have it on floor to evaluate the pedal reach. From what I see, I do not expect any issues so far, but if the pedal hits when riding level, then will go to the gold 3 1/2" crank arm.
As for the tube going bad on my 700C bike. The max pressure is at 80 PSI. I usually rode it around between 65 to 70 PSI so there was no reason for that extra thick tube to have separated at the valve mount on the tube. The tube had been installed properly, no pinching during installation. My good friend used to own a bike shop and was over when it was installed.
This is a more recent problem as that tube was a name brand too. I have noticed in recent years this is happening more frequently and also happened to another friend's bike, different manufacturer. So I believe this to be a manufacturing issue, nonetheless, I am going to go solid tires moving forward on all my bikes. No more flats.
In November will add the iconic custom shifter for the "Gold Krate" project, as well as rear fender and iconic worded chain guard in either black with gold lettering or gold with black lettering. Considering whether to stick with twist or thumb throttle.
In December, the finishing touches and then a compact triangle battery and bag for the center of the frame. I have measured my existing triangle battery from my working stingray and it will fit okay in the Gold Krate frame providing the front of the battery is turned downward. I believe this to be doable. The battery in frame will also add weight about 15 pounds to help prevent wheelies from occurring and stabilize the bike at higher speeds too.
Once I have the rear hub nailed next week with a tire, I'll pull the Krate down from the Park Mount and have it on floor to evaluate the pedal reach. From what I see, I do not expect any issues so far, but if the pedal hits when riding level, then will go to the gold 3 1/2" crank arm.
As for the tube going bad on my 700C bike. The max pressure is at 80 PSI. I usually rode it around between 65 to 70 PSI so there was no reason for that extra thick tube to have separated at the valve mount on the tube. The tube had been installed properly, no pinching during installation. My good friend used to own a bike shop and was over when it was installed.
This is a more recent problem as that tube was a name brand too. I have noticed in recent years this is happening more frequently and also happened to another friend's bike, different manufacturer. So I believe this to be a manufacturing issue, nonetheless, I am going to go solid tires moving forward on all my bikes. No more flats.
slickdude
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Looks like getting the solid Tannus tire on the small rim will be a 2 person job. Even heated up in the hot sun yesterday was only able to get it 2/3's onto the rim. I am sure the 26" tire on the ebike rim will be tough as well. One thing that Tannus didn't do is allow me the hardness option as this tire is "regular" firmness which might cause some rolling resistance. The tradeoff in the end will be at least 3,000 miles of riding without flat tires anymore. I should have the hub motor kit in this week and hopefully by next weekend the tire installed and the rear hub rim installed temporarily to gauge the pedal length against the ground. Remember that the front forks are 26" length but the wheel is only a 20 inch, actually around 22" inches when you include the overall tire round width. I don't believe I'll have to downgrade the pedal crank though. Will know later this week. Remember this is a learning process for me and that I am sharing here as a roadmap to those who might consider building a large adult sized Krate and and E-Krate at that.
slickdude
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UPDATE: Tannus tire installed on front rim. Hard to do, but let the 100 degree sun heat the tire for about an hour and a half and finally was able with great difficulty to pull it over the top and then snap the pins in place. The benefits. For at least 3,000 miles of riding, no chance of a flat at all.
In the next day or two should have the rear hub motor kit and a solid tire for that on order. By next weekend should have most of that installed. Fenders, chain guard and iconic shifter next month in November.
The last month will be the small triangle battery a 20ah battery should allow this with pedal assist to have a decent range. So this week first thing when hub wheel comes in to temp mount it and gauge the crank length.
Remember this is a learning process to see what works and doesn't. My next future Krate builds will go much faster as I'll know just what to order moving forward.
In the next day or two should have the rear hub motor kit and a solid tire for that on order. By next weekend should have most of that installed. Fenders, chain guard and iconic shifter next month in November.
The last month will be the small triangle battery a 20ah battery should allow this with pedal assist to have a decent range. So this week first thing when hub wheel comes in to temp mount it and gauge the crank length.
Remember this is a learning process to see what works and doesn't. My next future Krate builds will go much faster as I'll know just what to order moving forward.
Front tire don't wear much , that Tannus tire will probably last forever
slickdude
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Rear hub kit ordered. Once it comes in, first line of business will be to mount the rear wheel into the frame temporarily to then remove the entire bike from the Park Bike stand and see how low the main crank is to the ground. Once that has been determined, then to remove the rear hub wheel and mount a solid Tannus tire onto it. The Tannus tire rates at about 80PSI though this won't matter as the bike has full suspension between the sissy bars and springer fork set up. Once that tire is on the rim, then to add the derailleur, chain, chain guard (with logos), rear disc brake mount adapter and disc brake, brake cabling in place. In November comes the rear fender, stick shift and shifter cabling. In December comes an in frame mounted in battery bag, small 20amp 48 volt triangle battery for hook up, charging and then we might get a first ride. I am estimating possibly near December's end.
slickdude
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Okay, here is exactly what I need without a bolt on either end. If anyone knows where I can get a bag of these, please do inform. Not the bolt on the sides (Pinch Bolt) but the straight floating piece for the Archer brake. Exactly what's in the photo. Thanks guys.
Gordy
Well-Known Member
Is it a barrel nut?
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cloakedvillain
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Sturmey Archer Pinch Bolt [HSK715.0010.OP] | eBay
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