Problems and resolutions and a fabrication:
First off the mount for the rear brake disc caliper. The problem arises that most mount adapters are for 3/8 inch axles, but ebike axles are a 1/2 inch or thereabouts, and they flatten both sides so it can slip into a 3/8 inch drop-in, did I get that right? Okay check it out, angle is wrong on this mount, won't work. Tried it at both forward angles forget the other direction facing backwards as it interferes with the fat sissybar shocks.
and turning it vertical still won't work.
and below the culprit. It might be possible to drill it to a 1/2 inch but it'll be mighty thin, however that allows me to rotate it to perhaps a working position. The problem is the position of the beach cruiser frame rear drop in and the axle flat side in that drop in.
However since it's a cheap part...why not give it a go. The main anchor anyhow will be the upper loop that tightens down on the frame.
Okay next the torque arm. Being this is over 500 watts, it requires some protection for the drop ins. Here is what I am considering. Removing one of the inside washers on the gear side and mounting the torque arm inside as a spacer and also it would be closer to the center thus absorbing more of the torque. That leaves me enough axle outside for the bolt on derailleur.
On the outside now and it only works at this angle and setup, but will clear the chain and cassette with enough room on the inside. This will solve two problems. So this is what I am seriously considering.
Next up the sissybar shock mount. Have decided to use a steel piece and fabricate it to go about 3/4 to an inch longer and stick it with three holes drilled on the outside of the mount. This would allow me to move the sissybar about an inch back and off the derailleur, though and here it comes. This will increase slightly the chance of the "Wheelie Factor" on take off and unless the rider sits a bit forward, lightens the front end to less control potentially.
Anyhow weigh in especially on the caliper mount adapter if you think there is a better option. I am also thinking because disc brakes don't grip well on very wet discs and all things considered with how rare I'll be taking this out for an occasional jaunt, I can also go to like a side pull caliper similar to the original earlier Krates. Anyhow stay safe tomorrow, going to potentially get wild, I should have the order for the stick shift and mount for it in shortly. Once I have the torque bar situation resolved in the next day or so, will be looking at getting the derailleur mounted and the chain on possibly. Appears the pedals will clear, what a relief. Will probably cut and drill the steel extensions for the sissybar mounts, then paint em gold. Add the shifter and a gold chain guard with logo. The controller box for the seat post comes in Friday, maybe earlier. If that works then it starts coming together fast. Have received gloss clear sticky back laser print paper for the chain guard gold krate logo similar to what I posted here a few weeks ago. Also am going to create a black trim arrow from 1 to 7 speed for the shifter as Schwinn's original only went to 5 speed or a Lo to Hi one.
Next month, add the rear gold fender and resolve the brake issue for the rear brake, the front brake is nailed works perfect for now. Then finally the triangle frame mounted battery bag and connect it up, turn it on. After charging of course, then we hopefully get lights. If the motor spins, button it up, make final handle bar adjustments and seat adjustments and we are ready in late December, barring that all goes well, for the maiden voyage.
I am documenting all of this for you guys so if you want to build a larger Krate frame or even a Gold Krate which I hope you'll credit me for
so you guys can build your own.
