Golden Eagle belt snaps with fewer than 500 miles

[sabala]

astring,

remove your engine from the main mount and set it aside.

now remove the front strap and remove the axle nuts. do the mount legs spread away from the dropouts on it's own ? if you remove the mount do the legs spring in toward each other, so that if you want to put it back on you have to spread them to get them over the dropouts ?

either of these conditions need to be corrected. what is needed is to adjust the legs so that they fit closely over the dropouts without pressure or spread.

additionally, you should check the top of the mount to be sure that when you think you have the legs adjusted the two engine mount bolts reveal that the mount is centered over the tire and not to one side or the other

further, when you are satisfied with the previous steps, take the mount off and using 2 parallel lines, put the bottom of the legs on one line and see that the top of the mount is flat and parallel relative to the top line.

you may need to repeat all the steps until you have it freed up, centered and flat.

i know this seems extrem but in my case not being aware of it gave my first belt a 2 day 5-7mile life span.

after this i learned the importance of trueing and locking in the drivering and managing my belt tension.

steve

Hmmm, I just got the new front mount from gebe but am getting the belt tracking problems again. Tried the website recommendations and no luck. Even flipped the mount , re attached engine and of course the tracking goes bad in the opposite direction, (belt runs left now).

Took the engine off to check the engine mount and noticed the legs run wider at the bottom so as I release the bolts....the mounts spread outward.

So are they supposed to run parallel down to the axle? Do I need to bend the engine mount legs to make them parallel? I was wondering if this may be what's giving me the tracking problems.

These are pics of the engine mount only resting normally on the axle. There's about 3/4" of space each side they need to be squeezed in to make it flush against frame.

I'll have to try that rat tail file on the holes like Roy mentioned in another thread.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

yes, your pics show one of the 2 conditions that cause tension and torque reflex in the mount.

your legs should be just wide enough to slip on right next to the drop outs and stay parallel up to the first bend.

when you get that accomplished you'll need to check the whole thing for square. to do this i put mine at the edge of a table i knew was perfectly square, put the engine mount area on one edge and see that the legs go straight down the other edge.

do this carefully, and mark where the first leg end is, then flip it over and check the other side. if one leg is longer at all you have to go back and work on it till it's all flat and square.

it's worth it, and not as tedious as it sounds if you make small adjustments and keep checking as you go.

steve