Got needle bearing to replace bush but....

[go you good thing]

Thanks for your suggestions O'l Pete.

Ok so I used the dremel to cut the slot hole and it all went well. I just removed the burr with a small copper wire and gave it a good blowout to remove anything else.

I used the dremel on the slowest speed and had my air compressor going flat out to keep it cool. The air kept it very cool in fact.

I heated up the conrod and squeezed the frozen bearing in with a clamp.

Again all went well until I tried to insert the pin. The bearing had shrunk enough to make it impossible to install

I do need to open up the conrod more to take it but have for now just re-installed the bush. I haven't ridden my bike now for way tooo long so will attempt this later. If I do I will continue here.

 

[just for kicks]

Hmm I thought augi just posted that Dax has a needle bearing for his engines.

 

[uncle_punk13]

Hey thanks for this thread guys; I learned some things, and reconsidered others. That's what it's all about here in our little community...

 

[go you good thing]

Hmm I thought augi just posted that Dax has a needle bearing for his engines.

The bearing in the center of my picture is the one from the new generation of motors with these bearings as standard. I got the bearing in quite easily but when I went to install the ping it would not fit so the new bearings are not suitable for the old motors I would have to make the hole in the conrod bigger to take any of the needle bearings that I have.

Hey thanks for this thread guys; I learned some things, and reconsidered others. That's what it's all about here in our little community...

Mate so have I, so have I.

It may be an easier task to just buy an new motor from my supplier zbox.com.au as they sell just the motor itself with out the kit for $170.00au plus $20 delivery. I could then use my current motor as spares. My current motor has only done 200kms so I might wait a while to get the value out of it first.

 

[rcjunkie]

When you install/press the roller bearing it gets deformed slightly which makes it difficult to install the wrist pin. I insert the wrist pin onto the bearing before tapping it into the con rod. This ensures that the roller bearing is not deformed and the wrist pin can be easily installed/removed. I use a socket wrench to install the new bearing.

 

[go you good thing]

Ok rcjunkie installing the wrist pin sounds like a great idea I would like to try.

My problem was it was very very tight even though I had a frozen bearing and a hot conrod. I think I would need to make the conrod hole bigger as in Ol' Pete's post otherwise I am thinking I would get the bearing and rod in there and not be able to move it.

It was so tight that I thought I may crush the bearing while installing with the G clamp. When I extracted it I could see slight crush like deformities on the outer casing. That can't be good

 

[iron_monkey]

bearing upgrade for the 2 stroke, straightforward?

I searched, the most informative thread being this one: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6219&highlight=bushing+bearing

However the thread dies at the critical point; whether the method of putting the pin into the bearing first (before putting the frozen bearing/pin assembly into hot connecting rod) solves the fitting issue.

Second question is whether the bearing/bushing sizes for all 2 stroke motor is standardised, or are they different? Can I order a thatsdax bearing for my generic motor (appears to be same as kings 80cc)?


If it is easy/strightforward without requiring special fabrication/enlarging of the rod hole etc then I would order a bearing from thatsdax.

 

[davidsis]

Ya, I need to do my bearing too, I will be watching this thread. So replaceing the bushing with roller bearings may not be a good idea hu?

 

[Hot Dog Piggy Tails]

Ive had 2 strokes for a grip and you just tap a hole at the angle the conrod is tapped then clean it and realign it when repressing it under and oversized nut bolt press (homemade of course)

when it condenses it gathers across the top of the conrod as it pulls closer to a vacuumit is at the end so the oil goes in it.aaI have yet to see this right side bearing.

 

[wildemere]

The bushing engines have a 11mm piston pin the bearing engines are 10mm

The rod hole is ~14mm on both.

When changing the bearing type the correct sized piston and pin will be needed as well.