Got the belt on. Now wont start unless its rolling forward



CrazyDan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2016
Messages
2,291
yes Sir that is how i got the picture of the clutch system he has..

Here is all the pictures i was sent so everyone has a bigger picture for helping.
Pic 2 looks like the bell is off center a little bit.
Edit: a lot a bit. He needs to spin the bell while on the engine to see if there is any deviation.
Also, there are springs in that clutch, they are just hidden. Not all springs are spirals. If it doesn't grab engine off, idle might pull the shoes out just enough to grab the close end of the bell if the bell is off center a little.
 

DistantWolrld101

Active Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
417
Pic 2 looks like the bell is off center a little bit.
Edit: a lot a bit. He needs to spin the bell while on the engine to see if there is any deviation.
Also, there are springs in that clutch, they are just hidden. Not all springs are spirals. If it doesn't grab engine off, idle might pull the shoes out just enough to grab the close end of the bell if the bell is off center a little.
thanks for the info, i have learned something today my self
 

CrazyDan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2016
Messages
2,291
yes Sir that is how i got the picture of the clutch system he has..

Here is all the pictures i was sent so everyone has a bigger picture for helping.
Nope, its's pic 5. Look at the rightmost edge of the upper clutch pad. It's lifted and will grab. That is the problem, and a new clutch will fix it.
Edit((s)there were a lot, beer was involved): You can see in pic 6 the extra wear that location has. I think the bell might have been warped a little bit from the defective clutch, shoes should never peel off... The bell might need replacing too. Use this as an opportunity to upgrade your clutch and bell to better products than bottom of the barrel gasbike parts.
On a side note (edit 42): be very careful when working on cheap stock clutches (in our bikes and cars). The pads tend to be made of asbestos, that dust that builds up is very very bad to breath in. When you mess with these parts, use a HEPA filter vacuum to get as much as you can out, and work outside in a good breeze, with the engine downwind. I have the staton inc beast clutch, it's organic. Has lasted 3 years.
 
Last edited:

gary55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
3,898
Damned bushings. I've had troubles with them before. Not to be contrary but I think the area that was lifting on the pad in #5 shows in #6 that oddly enough it wasn't contacting the bell at all at that spot. It has a new appearance while the forward portion looks to be the contact point. If you look at these clutch pads the darker portion is the contact and the lighter colored portion is untouched. I would get rid of the loose part on that pad because it's going to eventually break off and take you on a trip to bind city.
View media item 61794
 

The_Aleman

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 2, 2007
Messages
1,012
that would work but one problem, the type of clutch he runs does not use a spring
Oh it definitely has springs, 3 of em inside. I was assuming OP has a tapered-shaft clutch - but that's the straight-shaft clutch, same thing I have. There are 3 springs in that clutch as well as sliders that should have a very light amouint of grease on em so they don't bind. I have to admit that I completely forgot about the bushing tho, it's been so long since mine was converted to sealed bearing. Those bushings need regular oiling sometimes, depending on how much you idle at a stop. Best oil I've used for that is a tie between 3n1 (cheap at Napa or Ace Hardware) and non-spray Tri-Flow (not cheap, but awesome for chains too).

Edit: the 3 springs inside are easy to replace with higher-rate ones so that the clutch engages later. All of these clutches have some deviation in the springs, whether between complete clutches or individual shoes. A matched set on a clutch works wonders.
 
Top