Got tired of tearing up spokes. Grub screw the hub adapter.

[Backwoods]

So I got tired of the spokes constantly breaking. I replaced the rear wheel once and found I'd need another one nearly once a week. The hub adapter would just tear them up. I'm using a hub adapter and just got tired of it.
I found a screw that I thought would work good and got out my handy dandy thread and tap kit, drilled a hole, and cut the threads. I drilled another shallow hole on the hub itself for the screw to lock int. Just to really seal the deal I used JB Weld to secure the adapter in place.
I'm not high on funds which is what drove me to do this. Hopefully it will be rock solid!!

 

[Karl Snarl]

I use the rubbers. More surface area pulling the hub. never had a spoke go, well besides wear or when I was jumping off walls with my bikes. With hub adaptors, I shim and add gap fill locktite or equivalent. Use the right stuff and you pretty much have to destroy the hub to get the adaptor off.

 

[DieselTech]

I run cdh hub adapters, never had 1 move on me. Lol I guess my engines dont make enough power to slip them.

 

[DieselTech]

I run cdh hub adapters, never had 1 move on me. Lol I guess my engines dont make enough power to slip them.

Oh yeah!! There bearing mounted!!! With green loctite.

 

[michael whiteman]

I don't have one of these, but back when I was considering one I felt I should really tie this adapter into the hub itself. You would first have to get it all lined up with the motor before drilling thru into the hub. It looks like you already have the center mark embedded on your hub surface. You would have to remove a couple of spokes to get a drill in there if you weren't able to do this with a Dremel Tool.
What's everyone's opinion on this?

 

[DieselTech]

I don't have one of these, but back when I was considering one I felt I should really tie this adapter into the hub itself. You would first have to get it all lined up with the motor before drilling thru into the hub. It looks like you already have the center mark embedded on your hub surface. You would have to remove a couple of spokes to get a drill in there if you weren't able to do this with a Dremel Tool.
What's everyone's opinion on this?

That's what I was going to do if I had slipping issues with my hub adapter, & you dont really need to drill into hub if you use a pointed grub screw.

 

[Wrench]

So I got tired of the spokes constantly breaking. I replaced the rear wheel once and found I'd need another one nearly once a week. The hub adapter would just tear them up. I'm using a hub adapter and just got tired of it.
I found a screw that I thought would work good and got out my handy dandy thread and tap kit, drilled a hole, and cut the threads. I drilled another shallow hole on the hub itself for the screw to lock int. Just to really seal the deal I used JB Weld to secure the adapter in place.
I'm not high on funds which is what drove me to do this. Hopefully it will be rock solid!!

Thanks for the reminder for the new M/B builders
You ran into a common problem, It's a well known remedy to drill and tap a set screw or two so it don't slip and ruin the wheel

 

[Backwoods]

I tried the rubber and it went on feeling solid, but after 40-50miles the rubber would slip on me. I would find it tore up and flattened out under the clamp. I would only find out, after it broke spokes. I am getting the mag wheels with disc brakes asap. Until then I'm going to try this. It was the cheapest viable option. I re-spoked the spokes(bike wheels aren't nearly as strong as I used to think they were), then did the grub hole, at the same time locking it down with generous amount of jb weld. It should be cured today, I haven't tested it out yet, I was waiting for the weld to solidify. The bike runs great, everything is awesome, that damn wheel tho it's the weakest link on my bike. If that wheel can just stay solid, I would trust taking it further than a half hour walk from home.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I tried the rubber and it went on feeling solid, but after 40-50miles the rubber would slip on me. I would find it tore up and flattened out under the clamp. I would only find out, after it broke spokes. I am getting the mag wheels with disc brakes asap. Until then I'm going to try this. It was the cheapest viable option. I re-spoked the spokes(bike wheels aren't nearly as strong as I used to think they were), then did the grub hole, at the same time locking it down with generous amount of jb weld. It should be cured today, I haven't tested it out yet, I was waiting for the weld to solidify. The bike runs great, everything is awesome, that damn wheel tho it's the weakest link on my bike. If that wheel can just stay solid, I would trust taking it further than a half hour walk from home.

Your in luck...From the time of this writing, they are on sale for the next 15 hours or so for "Cyber Monday" sale...Everything you will need is found in the link to a reply i wrote a few minutes ago to someone else here in the forums who is looking into buidling a bike like mine with disk brakes mags etc.

It also has all the links you will need there to order them from while they are so cheap to buy today only...DAMIEN

Whats the best bike for a 2 stroke?

Were miles away, but I bet our side of the railroad tracks are pretty similar. Before I found cranbrook in trash, I picked up a 74 schwinn world traveler & a 74-75 schwinn varsity people were throwing away, was going to build 1 of them, but long skinny front forks were scaring me. They can be...

motoredbikes.com

 

[Deeman69]

I'm also going to upgrade to mag wheels and disc brakes... the next time I have money to spend! LOL. For quite some time though I've been using the CNC hub mount adapter on my rear spoke wheel. After reading all the gripes about it, I took great care to mount it so it would "lock" in position. I haven't had a problem with it. If not for this forum and being able to take advantage of ya'll's experience with it, my story probably would be different. So thanks ya'll!