klinde
Member
His phone number would be great if he doesn't mind.
What are the torques for the side cover? Couldn't find them.
Will the Cruzzer cams work in an NE5 motor?
Great find
- Thread starter klinde
- Start date
What are the torques for the side cover? Couldn't find them.
Will the Cruzzer cams work in an NE5 motor?
Talk with Quenton, CEO of EZ Motorbikes direct. 252-475-0406
Side cover bolts just hand tight 4 ft lbs, or 48 inch lbs. case bolts 7 ft lbs or 84 inch lbs
BTW the new style clutch has a snap ring that holds the 2 halves together
The snap ring is located at one end on the center shaft
klinde
Member
I have two of the new style clutches. They have about 120 miles on them. Also have the two original clutches, one is almost like new. I have located most of the parts like the shoes and bearings. Still need to verify the shoes for the hub are similar or equivalent. As far as the new style auto clutches, I plan on taking them apart and taking a look. Now its on to pressing on sleeves and hardening steel. I have a few spare parts.
I'll put some corrosion prevention on the flywheel. Thanks.
Thankyou for the information.
klinde
Member
Thanks for the information.
Their GY6 150cc clutch shoes Exact fit for the Cruzzer Clutch
Original NE-5 auto clutch replacement shoes You'll have to shave down the shoe height because their too tall
I find shaving the top and bottom leaves the most shoe (pad) friction material
Shave shoes on a bench top belt sander
Paul has shoes but they need to be shaved down Their for the New style Cruzzer clutch
Buy from Paul and ask him for the Cruzzer springs too
Here's some pics of a shaved shoe next to it not shaved
Not shaved
Shaved
Shaved shoe on the right
IDK why Whizzer designed the Clutch the way they did, having to shave the shoes down to fit,
They shaved their shoes at the factory
They were probably trying to corner the market for their clutch shoes that would only fit their Original Whizzer auto Clutch
klinde
Member
That answers that question. They'll fit with minor work.
What is the torque on the nuts for the cylinder to crankcase? Also need the torque for the flywheel.
As soon as possible I will start posting pictures of my bikes once I get started.
Cyl to case 12 ft lbs is my guess, there's no room for a torque wrench on the nuts, so you'll have to guess by hand
Fly Wheel 12 - 17 ft lbs, once again it's easy to guess , I guess by hand, also put Anti Seize on the FW bolt threads, NO Loctite
How to hold the Cast Iron FW while loosening and tightening the bolt
If you haven't discovered it already, let me show you a trick.
There should be a balance hole or holes in your flywheel
With a tool about the same size as that hole use it to hold the flywheel.
As you can see I use a socket screwdriver
Don't go crazy tight or ya might break off the chain guard mounting post
You'll need a 3 Jaw Puller
Tip #2
Drill a devit in the center of the bolt face so the puller bolt point can have a place to seat itself
Do not put the puller bolt point directly on the crankshaft threads or it will bugger them up
Then you'll have to buy a tap and chase the threads, Yeah, I made that mistake once
klinde
Member
No problem.Cyl to case 12 ft lbs is my guess, there's no room for a torque wrench on the nuts, so you'll have to guess by hand
Fly Wheel 12 - 17 ft lbs, once again it's easy to guess , I guess by hand, also put Anti Seize on the FW bolt threads, NO Loctite
How to hold the Cast Iron FW while loosening and tightening the bolt
If you haven't discovered it already, let me show you a trick.
There should be a balance hole or holes in your flywheel
View attachment 188172
With a tool about the same size as that hole use it to hold the flywheel.
As you can see I use a socket screwdriver
Don't go crazy tight or ya might break off the chain guard mounting post
View attachment 188173View attachment 188174
You'll need a 3 Jaw Puller
View attachment 188170
Tip #2
Drill a devit in the center of the bolt face so the puller bolt point can have a place to seat itself
Do not put the puller bolt point directly on the crankshaft threads or it will bugger them up
Then you'll have to buy a tap and chase the threads, Yeah, I made that mistake once
View attachment 188171
You had mentioned having to replace your crack seal. Is a replacement part easily sourced?
I cant thank you enough. I'm still gathering parts.
Crank/Shaft low pressure oil seals are widely available from just about any low pressure oil seal manufacture from $5 - $15
Just make sure thy have a garter spring and coated rubber metal OD
Viton Oil seals cost a little more
You'll see the seal size stamped on the face of the seal
I got 2 from Paul for $5 each
