Great find

[Wrench]

No problem.

I cant thank you enough. I'm still gathering parts.

Sometimes I post more info than you might need, just to help others who might be following your thread
Explaining one detail about a Whizzer engine part just leads to another detail about another part, especially if mods are made

I can tell, your no beginner to mechanics, and that's good, because there's no repair/service manual for a Whizzer engine

Valve Lash, Whizzer USA recommended .009" for both, but set the lash at IN .008" EX .010" it's better.
Piston ring end gap min .012" max .018"

Basic mod, match that aluminum intake spacer hole to match the Cyl intake and Carb Intake
As far as I know, those aluminum spacer intake hole is smaller and don't line up, I know mine was

I put mine in a Jig to hold it on a drill press and drilled the hole to 7/8" or 22mm with a hole saw to match my carb
Then I smoothed out the saw marks with a drum sander
I Made my own Intake gaskets too because the Whizzer gaskets are for a 26 mm carb, bigger and don't match

Which reminds me, Here's an old trick you might know already

Gasket Making 101

Howzit Everyone, $SAVE MONEY$ Gaskets made easy. Don't reach for the razor blade. Grab your 8oz alignment tool (ball peen hammer) and tap it out, Lightly tap gasket around the edges. As you tap out the bolt holes put bolts in to help keep gasket aligned. The 1/32" rubber fiber sheet is great for...

motoredbikes.com

BTW that's a cast iron NE-5 Westman Cyl you see in the pics

 

[klinde]

Sometimes I post more info than you might need, just to help others who might be following your thread
Explaining one detail about a Whizzer engine part just leads to another detail about another part, especially if mods are made

I can tell, your no beginner to mechanics, and that's good, because there's no repair/service manual for a Whizzer engine

Valve Lash, Whizzer USA recommended .009" for both, but set the lash at IN .008" EX .010" it's better.
Piston ring end gap min .012" max .018"

Basic mod, match that aluminum intake spacer hole to match the Cyl intake and Carb Intake
As far as I know, those aluminum spacer intake hole is smaller and don't line up, I know mine was

I put mine in a Jig to hold it on a drill press and drilled the hole to 7/8" or 22mm with a hole saw to match my carb
Then I smoothed out the saw marks with a drum sander
I Made my own Intake gaskets too because the Whizzer gaskets are for a 26 mm carb, bigger and don't match

Which reminds me, Here's an old trick you might know already

Gasket Making 101

Howzit Everyone, $SAVE MONEY$ Gaskets made easy. Don't reach for the razor blade. Grab your 8oz alignment tool (ball peen hammer) and tap it out, Lightly tap gasket around the edges. As you tap out the bolt holes put bolts in to help keep gasket aligned. The 1/32" rubber fiber sheet is great for...

motoredbikes.com

BTW that's a cast iron NE-5 Westman Cyl you see in the pics

I am grateful for all the info that you and Quenton have provided in this forum through the years. The majority of what I know about Whizzers is from you and Quenton. I am confident that my bikes will be reliable and safe thanks to you two.

There is a chance that the engine I bought will be used for parts if needed.

I guess that Westman cylinder works well with the NEr head.

I'm upgrading to the Worksman Wheels.

 

[Wrench]

I guess that Westman cylinder works well with the NEr head.

While I've run many different heads on the Westman cy Some were expensive $175 high fin high compression heads
But the few I had finally cracked buy the S/P hole and welding each once only lasted another 1k miles.
The original NE-5 heads were no longer available, but I still have a few,

I finally tried the Ambassador head, Shaved it to be high compression and I was very pleased with the performance results
I started using it in 2016 I think
Ambassador Head, nickname "Block Head" by Q
Has a decent combustion chamber and by shaving .100" or so off the deck it's now a high compression head,

It's the only head readily available today for a NE-5 at a reasonable price. Now $55

I bought a bunch off Whizzer USA when they went outta business for $12 each

I'm a part's Hoarder and I don't sell, YET

Your Brand new 2007 parts engine, as long as it gets ya on the road and cruisen into the sunset it's worth it

 

[klinde]

While I've run many different heads on the Westman cy Some were expensive $175 high fin high compression heads
But the few I had finally cracked buy the S/P hole and welding each once only lasted another 1k miles.
The original NE-5 heads were no longer available, but I still have a few,

I finally tried the Ambassador head, Shaved it to be high compression and I was very pleased with the performance results
I started using it in 2016 I think
Ambassador Head, nickname "Block Head" by Q
Has a decent combustion chamber and by shaving .100" or so off the deck it's now a high compression head,

It's the only head readily available today for a NE-5 at a reasonable price. Now $55

I bought a bunch off Whizzer USA when they went outta business for $12 each

I'm a part's Hoarder and I don't sell, YET

Your Brand new 2007 parts engine, as long as it gets ya on the road and cruisen into the sunset it's worth it

The engines on my bikes should be fine, one 343 miles and the other 112. I really don't expect to use anything from that new engine, if that's the case I have a complete spare engine. That's why I asked if the NEr cam will work in the NE5. The stock lifters are still installed in both engines and haven't seen the condition of the cams at this point.

I also have a few parts I collected for spares. but not a lot. Should be enough to last me my lifetime.

 

[Wrench]

The engines on my bikes should be fine, one 343 miles and the other 112. I really don't expect to use anything from that new engine, if that's the case I have a complete spare engine. That's why I asked if the NEr cam will work in the NE5. The stock lifters are still installed in both engines and haven't seen the condition of the cams at this point.

I also have a few parts I collected for spares. but not a lot. Should be enough to last me my lifetime.

NER has the same cam as the NE-5

But yeah, the lifters might need to be change If you see any sign of mushrooming replace the lifters.
Using the bad (soft) lifters, You'll have to constantly set the valve lash and pretty soon the lifters will be so badly mushroomed, metal fragments will break off and get into the engine parts which is not good.
Taiwan tried to soften or shorten the WC-1 lifters so they wouldn't ruin the NE-5 cam.
But in doing so they ruined the lifters
The WC-1 cam has a is different lift height so the lifters were not compatible with the NE-5 high lift cam

Taiwan was trying to save $$ and use as many parts as they could off bikes that were no longer in production WC-1
But in the long run they loose $$$ because warranty claims and get a bad reputation for Whizzer

 

[Wrench]

I guess that Westman cylinder works well with the NEr head.

A little info about Whizzer heads 2005-2009

This is what a NER head looks like The cooling fins are shorter than the NE-5 and for some reason the combustion chamber has been slopply hand milled some, It's weird some NER heads are nicer than others I got these used from Whizzer $12 each,
I have not used them yet, I don't like the S/P directly over the exhaust Valve either
The other hole in the center was for a compression release button, Because some NER had the CVT transmission and electric start
Can't use this hole for a S/P the frame is in the way

These are the High Fin High compression heads that cost $175 each
1 is from Ralph Westman and the other two are from Q
They were great while they lasted, I got about 3K out of each before they all cracked by the S/P hole
I welded the crack but each head only lasted about another 1K miles before it cracked again right next to the weld
So no sense in welding em again, Now their expensive paper weights

Bottom of Q high fin high compression head, Nice combustion chamber design

NER head next to Q high fin head

Ambassador/Cruzzer Heads "Block Head" 2009 - present

Yep these too have a hole for a compression release button Because the Ambassador had a CVT trans and a electric start
2014 Taiwan just used the design on the Cruzzer instead of investing in another mold design, plus they had alot of NOS

I put the S/P in the center hole directly over the piston and I put a bolt in the other hole to seal it up

I shave .135" off the Block Head which makes it High compression
Yes it's thick and has short cooling fins and it runs a little hotter than all the other heads, It has a good combustion chamber design
Temps of this head are 300*F to 325*F
Taking temp readings after riding 15 miles and taking temp readings while riding at 35 mph in the wind, It's the only way to get an accurate temp reading on an air cooled engine without installing a temperature sensor Temp gun was close enough for me,
I check the temp several times holding the temp gun 1' away and aiming the laser at the flat spot by the S/P

Pic of shave Block Head and a stock Block Head

Yes I make my own copper head gaskets to match the combustion chamber exactly,
These are for the Block Head

You already know what the NE-5 head looks like you got 3 of those so no need to show you those

Taiwan often mismatched parts so any combinations is possible

 

[klinde]

A little info about Whizzer heads 2005-2009

This is what a NER head looks like The cooling fins are shorter than the NE-5 and for some reason the combustion chamber has been slopply hand milled some, It's weird some NER heads are nicer than others I got these used from Whizzer $12 each,
I have not used them yet, I don't like the S/P directly over the exhaust Valve either
The other hole in the center was for a compression release button, Because some NER had the CVT transmission and electric start
Can't use this hole for a S/P the frame is in the way
View attachment 188266

These are the High Fin High compression heads that cost $175 each
1 is from Ralph Westman and the other two are from Q
They were great while they lasted, I got about 3K out of each before they all cracked by the S/P hole
I welded the crack but each head only lasted about another 1K miles before it cracked again right next to the weld
So no sense in welding em again, Now their expensive paper weights

View attachment 188267
Bottom of Q high fin high compression head, Nice combustion chamber design
View attachment 188268
NER head next to Q high fin head
View attachment 188269
Ambassador/Cruzzer Heads "Block Head" 2009 - present
View attachment 188270
Yep these too have a hole for a compression release button Because the Ambassador had a CVT trans and a electric start
2014 Taiwan just used the design on the Cruzzer instead of investing in another mold design, plus they had alot of NOS

I put the S/P in the center hole directly over the piston and I put a bolt in the other hole to seal it up

I shave .135" off the Block Head which makes it High compression
Yes it's thick and has short cooling fins and it runs a little hotter than all the other heads, It has a good combustion chamber design
Temps of this head are 300*F to 325*F
Taking temp readings after riding 15 miles and taking temp readings while riding at 35 mph in the wind, It's the only way to get an accurate temp reading on an air cooled engine without installing a temperature sensor Temp gun was close enough for me,
I check the temp several times holding the temp gun 1' away and aiming the laser at the flat spot by the S/P

Pic of shave Block Head and a stock Block Head
View attachment 188271
Yes I make my own copper head gaskets to match the combustion chamber exactly,
These are for the Block Head
View attachment 188272
You already know what the NE-5 head looks like you got 3 of those so no need to show you those

Taiwan often mismatched parts so any combinations is possible

In some ways I'm not disappointed in their lack of pride in their craftsmanship, it gives me something to do.





I noticed on Whizzer Cruzzer Parts he has straight lifters and the description says for new Cruzzer's and Whizzers. Not thinking of using them. Do the mushroom lifters really make a difference? If they are truly hardened like the description says, I wonder what the effect would be on the cam or decline in performance. I do have a couple of sets of the soft mushroom lifters that I plan to modify per Quenton's instructions. Something to think about.

A picture of the head from my new engine.