Grubee 4g output shaft clearance

CrazyDan

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I'm looking into putting 2 sprockets on my output shaft coming from my grubee 4g 1b transfer case. Correct me if my measurements are off, shaft size is 5/8" with a 3/16 keyway. There is roughly 1 3/4" from the center of the shaft to the engine block and 1 1/2" from the center of the shaft to the air filter box.
I'm thinking about a 10 tooth output matched to a 48 tooth rear (24:1 overall reduction) with a 14 tooth matched to a 44 tooth rear 15.71:1) beside it. Would give me 22mph with hill climbing capability and 34mph for flat ground and downhill at 6870 rpm. Tempted to throw on my old flywheel and magneto for 41mph top speed at 8300 rpm.
According to this chart the 14 tooth should fit:
0460.jpg

Does anyone see issues?
 
I'm looking into putting 2 sprockets on my output shaft coming from my grubee 4g 1b transfer case. Correct me if my measurements are off, shaft size is 5/8" with a 3/16 keyway. There is roughly 1 3/4" from the center of the shaft to the engine block and 1 1/2" from the center of the shaft to the air filter box.
I'm thinking about a 10 tooth output matched to a 48 tooth rear (24:1 overall reduction) with a 14 tooth matched to a 44 tooth rear 15.71:1) beside it. Would give me 22mph with hill climbing capability and 34mph for flat ground and downhill at 6870 rpm. Tempted to throw on my old flywheel and magneto for 41mph top speed at 8300 rpm.
According to this chart the 14 tooth should fit:
0460.jpg

Does anyone see issues?
I dont get it you want to have both sprockets mounted on the output shaft and the wheel to switch the chain from one to the other.wouldn't it reqiure two different chain lengths?
 
Not when the front+back tooth counts match. 10+48=58 and 14+44=58. Would just pop the master link and swap over. Have plenty of room in between the tire and seatstay with this 135mm hub, already have both rear sprockets on and don't see any issues with alignment.
 
Would just pop the master link and swap over.
Personally I would rather turn a shift lever and have multiple gears and not get my hands dirty screwing with chain, but to each his own.

What are you doing for a chain tensioner?
 
I'm thinking about getting a second nylon tensioner wheel and put them both on a longer bolt, but I might get away with the stock tensioner since I'm using 410 chain. I can't afford any of the parts needed for a shift kit, I'm not fond of dirty hands but this is my only option atm to get different ratios without removing one sprocket and adding another. I already have everything needed except the 14 tooth output sprocket.
 
Not when the front+back tooth counts match. 10+48=58 and 14+44=58. Would just pop the master link and swap over. Have plenty of room in between the tire and seatstay with this 135mm hub, already have both rear sprockets on and don't see any issues with alignment.
it's not the tooth count but the different dia for the tooth count that may cause a different length of chain to fit.
 
Pretty sure chain length would remain the same. Remove 4 teeth from the rear sprocket then you need to remove 4 half links. Add 4 teeth to the front sprocket then you need to add 4 half links. Do it at the same time chain length is the same.
 
Just did the math for sprocket pitch diameters. 10T+48T=9.263" total. 14T+44T=9.256" total. Pretty sure that's plenty close enough to work. I might want to get a spring tensioner for easy swapping and make up for the 0.007" difference lol.
 
Just did the math for sprocket pitch diameters. 10T+48T=9.263" total. 14T+44T=9.256" total. Pretty sure that's plenty close enough to work. I might want to get a spring tensioner for easy swapping and make up for the 0.007" difference lol.
That's what I was thinking the use of a tensioner would take up the slack from one to the other.Good luck hope it works for you!
 
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